gtmstang

I'm doing an addition on a 130 year old home. My client also wants me to reshingle and install vinyl siding. I'll use my regular subs for the roofing but I usually install the siding and dont have a sub to use. This will be our first siding job on an existing house, most we do is on new construction. Is their a big difference? I'll be going over 3" lap wood siding. I've seen crews put foam board up first then tyvec then siding. I've also seen no foam board just tyvec and then the siding. Whats the best way. I know my crew can handle this I'm just wondering what steps to take and why. Also I'm doing the soffit with vinyl. I'm just running it over the existing wood soffit, removing any rot and cutting holes for vents where needed. Sound right? Or do you guys think this is an excellent opportunity to find a siding sub. Been slow and I'd rather do it with my guys so they can get some good paydays before Christmas. Thanks for any advice.

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Burby

There is more than I have time to write, (getting close to time to run to meeting)
If you ever used a level in the past on new construction, throw it away or hang it up, use measurements, everythig has settled as to where it should remain and you want your work to be the same, so measure down, pop lines and make sure your starter line ends up meeting once gone around the entire house. Your product is going to stand out once completed, make sure you are not there trying to prove you used a level!!!
A common mistake to many make on renos & or siding older homes.

It is fun and lots of experience, make it a great x mas project for all!!

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DavidC

Certainteed has installation instructions online. It sounds like your on the right track, this will help with details. Also, check out JLC Feild Guide for Residential Construction for really good details on how to handle the windows.

I agree with Burby on the level, nothing can scew an older home quite like level siding sometimes. Our jobs will always use at least fanfold to make the new siding better. Insulation board does the same thing while adding R value.

Good Luck
Dave

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Jake Stevens

What they said plus make sure you start at the lowest wall and pull your line aroung the house. Build down a wall if you have too or make your own starter with coil. Don't start a wall in a J-Channel.

DavidC

I took apart a wall on my house a couple years back. It has steel siding, installed way before we moved in, but discovered an interesting technigue for dropping down to match a lower wall. They used cedar shakes spaced about 10-12" apart as a starter hanging below the original starting point for the wood clapboards. The siding hooked on the shake which was nailed tight to the wall above. Matched up the other wall rather than be a 1/2 clapboard off.

Maybe old news to some, but I was impressed.

Good Luck
Dave

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gtmstang

Thanks for the help. I'm feeling more confident my crew can handle the job reading all the info you guys have reffered me to. What about the vinyl with foam backer attached to it. Would that rule out wraping the house in foam board? I read the certainteed site and they said using the foam backed vinyl can rule out the foam board. Anyone have any experience with the foam backed vinyl? Or the contoured foam underlayment? I was just using regular foam board, but now I'm finding all of these new products. At least new to me.

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DavidC

We haven't done any real amount of siding in a few years and I haven't used the foam backed product. But I would say that yes it does eliminate the foam board.

Be especially careful with your flashings. Under the right circumstances rain will get behind the vinyl and proper flashings are critical to proper performance.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out for you.

Good Luck
Dave

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Home Serve

My opinion is the foam backed vinyl is not worth the extra $$$$, using foam board you get a much tighter fit with better R value for less $$. Tyvek the wall first then use foam board, you may need to make adjustments around windows and doors in order not to see the foam. Build out, larger J, etc. There are ways to deal with it.
Dave C

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Cole82

I allways put up atleast 1/2" foam then tyvek. The foam will help bridge the gap in the old siding so if you have a nail draw to much it won't pull the siding to far. That is what make s some side overs look wavey. For shure measure down from the top and snap lines. Make shure your lines are the same height all the way around the house. That way your coners line up perfect. Drive me nuts when I see a house with the siding not lined up perfect in the corners.
On this house I couldn't start at the lowest wall I had to udjust the bottum wrapto compensate. Turn of the century farm house.

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gtmstang

Thanks Cole82. I'm dealing with a single story version of the pics you posted. Thanks for the help guys.

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gtmstang

Well.....went to finish up my quote and talk to the HO about 3 other projects I'm doing for her. Me and one of my guys went around checking the walls to see how much rot we are dealing with. I saw a bulge in the old wood siding so I just kicked it a little to see if it was rotted and my foot went through the wall. 52' of rot on one wall. Starts at the foundation and goes up through the band and a foot or so of the 2x4 wall. Joists are rotted about 2 feet in. She just smiled and said "looks like you have your work cut out for you". Glad she has a sense of humor about it. I'll be replacing rot until Jan. This job started off as a bedroom addition and now its roofing the whole house, replacing rotted joists, leveling floors through the whole house, siding, installing new floors through the whole house, updating electrical and plumbing and now the new rot. And to think last month I was complaining about business being slow.

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Aframe

Well, after you finish rebuilding the house, the siding is the easy part.

If you don't have one yet give one of your guys a brake for an early Xmas gift, and tell him to be ready to go when he comes back

Kelly's

When insulating, one never puts a new layer of glass or any other insulation over a layer with a vapor barrier that will come in contact with the new layer of insulation.

With the foregoing in mind, what effect would there be following suggestion of a layer of Tyvek under a layer of foam, since there will then be a layer of siding with a seal coat of paint (e.g., a paint vapor barrier)?

Burby

hahaha it pays to give things a swift kick eh?
One thing that will keep the H/O very happy & trusting in your work always, is when making the repairs, find the cause for the rot & repair that as well to prevent future damage, (especially to your new work).
A house is suppose to work "for" a H/O, not against them.
Repairs are expected in any home, repeat repairs every few years of the same repairs is not something any H/O likes to hear or have and especially pay for over & over.
My best advertisment is from Customers, every repair I show them the cause for their problems as well as repair that cause. To few do this, based on jobs I have done that had been repaired a year or so previous by others, I have discovered this. If in an area they can not easily view, digital cam works great. This simple step keeps you a happy & loyal customer and more important, great advertisement for your business.
Glad to read you have good secure work thru these times. Good for you!!

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tomstruble

i gotta get a level with a fixed bubble