Replacement Window Caulk

neolitic

House I'm working on now has
vinyl replacement windows
(slide in double hungs).
What do you guys use to caulk
on the interior side?
This yahoo used silicone, and it's
stuck like hell to everything except
the window!
Absolutely no adhesion to the vinyl.

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Patrick

NOTHING! That is a painters job. There is no real purpose for visible interior caulking other than aesthetics. IF we have to remove interior stops, which is becoming more and more RARE, we do such a nice job, that in most cases touch up painting is not necessary. Therefore caulking would necessitate an unneeded paint job.

I do usually have a tube or two of cheap painters caulking JUST IN CASE, but they rarely get used.

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

neolitic

These are ½" shy of being as thick
as the existing frames.
They stopped them out with
½" quarter round and caulked to
the quarter round and the stool.
All perfect match silicone, and zero
bond on the matching vinyl.
Looks like they were made for each other.

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Patrick

Yuck, IF thats the case, we pull the window TO the inside stop and deal with the problem outside

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

neolitic

Since I have to replace casing and
stool, I have to re-caulk the stool.
I'm thinking about re-caulking the whole
deal 'cause I probably won't get color
to match....and what's there looks like
crap.
I'm thinking maybe urathanized latex?
Think that will bond?
Exteriors on vinyl I've had good luck
with PL caulks, but I think they'd be
to soft/sticky for interior.

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Patrick

Since you are re-trimming, why not remove the casing, AND stops, install new stops that are flush with the inside of the old frame and go all the way to the window, and make a new stool thats extra deep to meet the window, and then trim it out

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

dougchips

I generally use Polyseamseal which you can buy from the paint store for small money. (www.thepaintstore.com) <--mod can edit if the link is wrong.

Some of the homes that we work on have old trim with 10/20/30/600 coats of paint. Since newer stop molding looks poor on old houses and paint likes to chip we end up using caulking when we reuse the old stops.

BTW, we do score the seam with a razor knife and remove the stops with putty knifes-- old paint likes to chip!

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To get the best replacement windows, or sun rooms contact the replacement windows experts at FHI Vinyl Window Company.

neolitic

Basically that's what I'm doing.
Their quarter round is the perfect
size for the stops though.
What they did was push the windows
to the old stool, which left them
½" shy...the thickness of the original stops?
They must have needed a bit more
than the old stops to cover gaps side to side.
Don't know.
I'm gonna need some kind of caulk though,
if not for the seal, at least to give a "paint line."

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Patrick

Either that, Or im willing to bet that the windows were ordered too small. Our painter uses some stuff called "big stretch" It holds real nice

http://www.acehardware.com/sm-big-st...i-1277453.html

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

dougchips

I'll agree with Patrick on the 1/4 round. The only time I see 1/4 round is when someone measured windows wrong and generally they installed cheap windows and that is why I am there selling new windows. Sort of hard to install mini blinds with 1/4 round in the way?

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To get the best replacement windows, or sun rooms contact the replacement windows experts at FHI Vinyl Window Company.

neolitic

Could be, or could be that he orders
to butt up to the old stools?
Dunno, it is what it is.


Sounds like that might be urathanized latex.
Guess that's what I'm gonna try, won't be any
worse than what's there now.

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Patrick

I dont know what it is to be honest, what I DO KNOW is that if you ever want to remove the stops, you will likely break them in the process, this stuff is that good.

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

neolitic

That sounds like urethane.
I'll try to get by an Ace over the week end
see if they fess-up in the fine print.
Thanks for the interest.

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Jake Stevens

We do a lot of older homes that have the 20 plus coats of paint and if they chip paint on the inside of the window, we run the stops from the sides threw the tablesaw with the header to match, that way you have a clean cut against the new window. We never caulk the stops on the inside against the new window. Sometimes when you cut the jamps it does make them a little short on the width and you might have to caulk the other end at the casing.

neolitic

I love PolySeamSeal, their bathroom caulk is my favorite.
Recaulked my tub 8 years ago,looks like brand new.
Color is their only short fall, these windows are
a kind of deep tan color. Have to see what they
want for trim paint and try to match that.

Sorry I can't do pix, what they did actually
makes some sense (won't make any difference
for window treatment).
I had nothing to do with these things, they
had them installed 3 or 4 years ago, I'm just
dealing with what I'm dealt to replace drywall, etc.

Sorry I missed your posts last night Doug,
the site was acting weird, and your
first post was simultaneous with one of mine....
just never looked back.
Glad to know about PolySeam...
save me running around on my time
this weekend!

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Home Serve

We caulk the inside of a replacement window to trim in order to give a finished look and seal against cold air penetration. This after insulating and cap, caulk outside as needed. Usually use a foam wrapped window frame.
To me the caulk gives a more efficient installation. Like 1/8" finish caulk to seal the crack. Never had trouble with it not bonding to the vinyl window either.

Dave C

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Walker1

The only time we caulk the inside is when they are installed from the outside and bumped up to the old molding. We usually use a latex or acrylic caulk. We never caulk the inside if we put on new trim (3/4 round, OG mold,shoe) or if the old trim is stained
If a window is properly insulated with low expansion foam there is no reason to seal the inside molding with caulk. Now if you still stuff fiberglass I would definitely still put a bead before putting on the new molding.

Home Serve

This is what I mean.

The window wrapped with foam makes a very nice weather seal in 75% of cases. We do use some expandable foam but expensive using the small cans. What do you use for this?
Dave C

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Walker1

Dave we use a Hilti Foam Gun with Dow Foam. The Hilti gun is ten times better then the Dow Gun. We usually get 5 to 7 windows out of 1 can. Its really doesn't add much to the cost of the installation. The Dow cost us around $11.00 a can. The Hilti is foam is way overpriced at around $18.00 a can. Once you get use to using it you will never go back to stuffing or relying on th foam wrap that comes with the window.

shoemaker

^Totally agree^

I use Novaflex when I can match the window color.
Clear Novaflex in a fine bead if I'm butting to existing stained stops.