Questions On 1st Time Hardie.

billderboots

I just built a 8 unit townhouse project. Now my builder decided to throw me a curve ball. He wants Hardie siding. Now im no stranger to siding work. Questions are rep says you wont need face nails...
My guess is 7 inch exposure wont that flap some or is it that strong?

next Hardie instructions say 2" min off any roof areas wont that show the step flashing bad who wants to see shiny step flash the whole way up the roof rake?

next how are you guys staggering your siding? my guess was start full and back up every stud 16" o/c down to about 4' or so. would not wanna see straight joints every other up the wall would you?

Im figuring on hand nailing I have a 8 man crew. must you predrill or punch the hole for the nail?

caulk every joint in addition to a joint flash?

sounds from what i here that I should be charging my builder plenty for this project at least 200. square labor?

sorry for the long thread I just want to be well advised here and you guys seem to know what your doing! Thanks

Kgmz

First do a search for Hardie, there are at least a few hundred threads regarding this.

Next invest in the right tools, you and your crew will be much faster and happier. And you will save a lot more money in labor savings than the cost of the tools.

Get a coil nail gun that can shoot the nails required. Get some shears so you don't have to deal with the dust.

You don't want to hand nail, it is slow and you will have to drill each hole. Yes caulk and flash every joint. And yes Hardie does recommend the 2" clearance off of the roof, but most do not go this high unless they are in a snow area. And 200 a sq. seems to be the going rate in our area. As for staggering I don't worry about it where it falls, and I do a good job caulking so you don't really notice the butt joints. Also if I have a panel lifting at a butt joint I put a nail in the groove to hold the bottoms down and it get covered with caulk. And no it won't flap in the wind, I have put on some 7" exposure but prefer the look of the 6" exposure.

Tools I use for Hardie:

Max CN665 coil guns



Porter Cable shears



PacTool SA902 siding gauges



Makita 5057KB saw with dust collection



I have only used the saw once since I can do just about everything with the shears. But will be using it with the Nichiha siding and the new Hardie Artisan since they are too thick for the shears.

jcalvin

I tried a combination of hand nailing and coil nailing on my siding jobs. I personally like the hand drive better. If your men are fairly good with a hammer, the coil nailer won't speed them up too much. With the variations of material behind the siding, osb, studs, or lack of a stud, and the likely possibility that we didn't have the gun perfectly square to the face every time, we had to set some of the nails with a hammer anyhow.

I know that some don't break their hardie on a stud, but it sure pulls it down tight. I tried to aim for them, but when I missed them, I didn't sweat it.

__________________
Cal


You hired WHO

easy sider

We used coil nailers. Before easy line we snaped lines horizontal on the wall to guide courses and vertically for studs. We run panels tight to each other and the trim. We trim out all corners, dormers, rakes, windows and doors before siding and after trimming. For nailing bottom corners we use a finish nail gun with a 2 inch nail. We use OSI butyl ruber caulk every where. We use a shear called steelhead. You must wear the respirator all day to prevent dust from being inhaled. You must keep your siding dry. We try to flip our cement board jobs to vinyl.

billderboots

I sure do appreciate all the Info guys! Now easy sider you say about keeping the siding dry is because of swelling?? Like today we started in on the siding and my cut man had 12 pcs out of the house and pre-staged at his cutting station I was watching the boys run the siding on and it started raining should we have packed up right then? I dont wanna come off like a dummy. Just wanna cover my a**. Thanks for all the input guys!

easy sider

If the siding gets wet it can cause mold on the back of the panel. If it gets soaking wet it may compromise the primer.

Since your working on a multi-family dwelling you are at greater exposure to mold litigation. Even if you know the mold isn't your problem you will probably be sued especially if its under the siding where the mold occured.

BattleRidge

I wouldn't hand nail, of course you should go for the studs, just mark them out before you begin. The seven inch lap will be fine if your hitting studs. I usually do an inch off the roof. I make the seams at least 32 inches apart too. It just looks better that way.

SBSVA1

Just one thing I would add, you do not need to both install flashing at the seams and caulk. If you go to the installation instructions at jameshardie.com, you'll see two options. First you can use a joint flashing material (we use 20-mil black poly) with no caulk or, for the second, you can use no joint flashing and caulk. This last option is not recommended if you're using the pre-finished product.

We always just do the first option. I sort of like "extra dimension" the seams seem to give. Plus, I've seen the caulk joints really stand out in sunlight against the rest of the siding which looks pretty rough.

BigoWhiteboy

You should sub it out to a real siding crew experienced in fiber cement installation and you won't have to worry about your guys making it look like crap. The worst siding jobs I've seen are always first timers and framers, stick with what you are good at.

Tom Struble

whats easyline?

easy sider

Hardies newer gimick to gauge the siding. There is a visible line on the plank to keep courses streight.

CCR-ClrChcRmdlg

We always use a 12 inch speed square with the nothches in it. Put your pencil into the 6" notch and run the square along the length of your siding pushing down with your pencil once in a while making several short reveal lines along the top edge of your siding.