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Going back to "overbuild it for your protection" we treat every wall as a load bearing wall on an exterior wall. Even though technically gable walls dont bear alot they still do and when the spans get wide enough it will bow a less than sufficent header.
Me personally I always try to work from the outside if posssible, but if they have some hard to work with or fragile exterior then we will gut from the inside to frame new opening, I try to go at least 12" beyond my proposed new rough opening that falls on a stud. This way I can double stud that point for ease of patching in new sheetrock. Then as far as installing the new header I like to have it rest on at least 2 jacks per side, and actually most codes reference x amount of jacks per floor load above anyways as they do triple headers for nominal lumber.
So being that you said the new door is significantly wider than the existing window you already know you have to reframe the thing so it's right in both header size (go at least 2x10 for a 5' opening or 2x12 for 6' opening. Kinda overkill in some circumstances but better safe than sorry. You might try pricing a single length LVL to get 2 headers out of one board, alot stronger than nominal lumber, no filler in between them and easier to nail togeteher perfectly since crowning is never an issue with them.
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