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09-01-2009, 08:19 PM
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#1
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Pro
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Remodeling
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Northwest Connecticut
Posts: 1,136
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Opinions on Finger-Joint Red Cedar Claps
Anyone with time tested experience using finger-joint primed red cedar claps?
Does it hold up to the elements?
This will be used on the south sides of appartment buildings that aren't always maintained well.They haven't been painted in over 15 years and all the siding is loose,curled,cracked,with paint pealing off in large strips.
Other problems were no underlayment at all,another was the use of the wrong nails.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks,John
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Last edited by oldfrt; 09-01-2009 at 09:02 PM.
Reason: spelling
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09-02-2009, 05:51 PM
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#2
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Pro
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BUMP
Writing up the estimate Tonight,anybody seen this siding fail?
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09-02-2009, 06:15 PM
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#3
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Jeff
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home builder/remolder
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Bradford PA
Posts: 268
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I can help you in 5+ years, just installed 5 square today. One thing i was a little sketchy on after seeing it was the fact that it was like 2 inch strips glued to make up the 9 1/4 height. I figured it would just be finger jointed pieces on the length. Working with it it never felt like failure was imminent so we'll see.
The pics kinda blow, was just snapping a few quick ones before painters work their magic.
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09-02-2009, 06:41 PM
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#4
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Pro
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Thanks JK,
I've used it before,and all the pieces seemed straight,so application was a breeze.
I am just trying to give the client something that will fit his needs and budget.
There's five appartment buildings in this bid,just the south walls for now,but could be more down the line if I do him good.
With everyone going to vinyl and composit,I guess there would only be a handful of guys that still do the wood,just hoping one was online.
BTW,
How did you end up addressing that post,trim wise?
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09-02-2009, 06:58 PM
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#5
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Jeff
Trade:
home builder/remolder
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Bradford PA
Posts: 268
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Still havent decided, gave her some options and well that was probably a mistake. So as you can see i stuck a couple pieces of straping on the post to line up my downspout so i have room to do whatever when she decides. If it holds up it was def the way to go, like you said every piece was straight and easy to work with and im pretty sure it was about 1/3 less or more in cost.
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09-02-2009, 07:45 PM
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#6
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Pro
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Remodeling
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Location: Northwest Connecticut
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Got the local prices today:
Clear is running 1.19ln/ft
Finger joint primed was .93ln/ft.
Just the fact it's primed both sides is a bonus.
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09-03-2009, 11:03 AM
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#7
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Member
Trade:
siding
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldfrt
Anyone with time tested experience using finger-joint primed red cedar claps?
Does it hold up to the elements?
This will be used on the south sides of appartment buildings that aren't always maintained well.They haven't been painted in over 15 years and all the siding is loose,curled,cracked,with paint pealing off in large strips.
Other problems were no underlayment at all,another was the use of the wrong nails.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks,John
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We still do a fair amount of wood siding. Have never used the finger jointed though. I'm just wondering why on earth they would be considering wood again, given the fact they dont do proper maitenance?
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09-03-2009, 12:40 PM
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#8
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Pro
Trade:
Painting/Framing/Drywall/Tile
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Location: KC
Posts: 1,671
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good point jumbo. There are composites that will outlast wood anyday. Hardie or smart would be better IMO.
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09-03-2009, 06:35 PM
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#9
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Pro
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Remodeling
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Northwest Connecticut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jumbo
We still do a fair amount of wood siding. Have never used the finger jointed though. I'm just wondering why on earth they would be considering wood again, given the fact they dont do proper maitenance?
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That was my first ? for the owners.
They have recently purchased the appartments and the lack of maintainence was the previous owners fault.
Since they are trying to get them in proper order at a limited cost,they figure,staying with wood and repainting is cheaper for now because the other sides aren't that bad yet.
It's been a tough sell,because he wants to try and save some of the existing weather beaten siding,some which is questionably repaintable,especially after I try and renail it or" tuck in" new pieces.
Some areas will get complete replacement,others patched.
It's a tough bid because his expectations for saving pieces are higher than mine.
I'd like to help the guy out,I could use the work,but I may have to walk away from this one.I'm going to have to insist on full replacement just cause my name's going to be on it,so we'll see whay happens.
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09-03-2009, 06:39 PM
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#10
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Member
Trade:
siding
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 86
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Until last year I would have walked away myself. Now I'm not too sure. Do what's right for you. Good luck.
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It's better to die on your feet than to be living on your knees.
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09-03-2009, 07:15 PM
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#11
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Jeff
Trade:
home builder/remolder
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Bradford PA
Posts: 268
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Eh saving siding is always a lost cause. The stuff on the original part of the barn we salvaged where the addition wrapped around the end so it would all match. Its prolly 15 year old siding we got the pieces off ok but once it got off the building it went all to hell on us. We peeled off close to 2 sq maybe and just barely had enough to piece in the triangle to the right of the hay loft door in the pic. One of the longest days of my life running that siding.
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09-03-2009, 07:21 PM
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#12
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Northwest Connecticut
Posts: 1,136
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The worst part of this project is there in no paper between the siding and the plywood and the nails holes are enlarged because the wrong nails were used.
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There is no warranty, expressed or implied, as to the accuracy, reliability or completeness of furnished data.Information gathered here may be for the sole purpose of entertainment.
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09-03-2009, 07:50 PM
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#13
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Jeff
Trade:
home builder/remolder
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Bradford PA
Posts: 268
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Sounds similar, they had typar behind our siding but none of the end joints had a lap flashing they just smeared some caulk in the joints that had long since dried out and stopped working. So the 3 inches above the top of the bottom piece and below the upper piece the water was getting in and behind it all. Pretty sure thats why it cupped so bad when we took it off, finally had a chance to dry out.
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09-03-2009, 07:50 PM
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#14
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Pro
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Carpenter/GC
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Oldfrt, I've done a fair amount FJP 6" clap. Was by a house recently, we did the garage three years ago so here is my report. I was not there for any work related stuff so I just took some mental notes of how everything was holding up.
Painted Dark red color, the finger joints were visible. It was the south side by coincidence. I did not check other walls so not sure if it was only that wall.
I have come across different grades of FJP, some stuff I saw at a box store was 12' of 6" pieces. Not something I would want to put my name on. Others have been larger random pieces and a better primer application.
Over time any paint problems will take their toll on the finger joints. I would only patch if it were a piece here and there.
Hardie is 1/2 the cost. I would push him to have you do at least one section w/hardie or similar. That way he will see how the two hold up side by side
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