Home Serve

How do you guys deal with the old sash pockets? We've been stuffing fiberglass up them but it hardly seems adequate to fill them very well. I've seen the pro foam guns but not sure how they do and how much you'd have to charge to fill them babies up with foam? Looks like you could drill a few holes in the jambs for access and then cover them with the window frame.
So how do you handle those?
Thanks,
David

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Missouri Remodeling Company with services for Replacement Windows Vinyl Siding and Entry Doors

Home Serve

So guys, what is the word on how to best deal with these? Hard to ignore that much uninsulated space right next to an energy efficient window wouldn't you say?
Thanks,
David

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oldfrt

I had one solution here.It wasn't easy but it worked adequately.

Before removing the pulleys,have insulation cut to the size of the cavity.
Then cut off the weight off the lower sash with the window in the up position,
Tie the rope around the insulation at the access panel for the weights,lower the window ,and the insulation is pulled into the cavity.Take something thin,and push to the top of the cavity once the pulleys are removed.
Don't forget to put a nail under the sash to hold it up once you cut the weights off.

dougchips

I ignored this thread on purpose.........There is really no great way to properly insulate the cavity. Fiberglass insulation will never completely insulate the cavity if it is shoved in. Great stuff........maybe 2 cans of blue label in each side @ $20 per window? I tried renting a machine that blows insulation like what you would use for an attic. I used a shop vac attachment to blow in in the pulley holes, I never made a bigger mess in someones home. For now we will stick with fiberglass until someone comes up with a great idea.

Home Serve

[quote=dougchips;303523]I ignored this thread on purpose.........There is really no great way to properly insulate the cavity.

Doug, I had a thought this may be the case. Have you ever tried just cutting a couple more holes in the cavity to allow better access?
Even using the large pro size foam it'd cost quite a bit, up to 20.00 you think?
The windows that we are using right now are pre drilled. The holes they drill very often end up lining up with the original location of the pully and so have to redrill a hole many times.
We've been having our replacement window jambs wrapped with closed cell foam to fill the about 1/2" recess in the jamb. Works real nice, good fit, good seal.
Dave

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framerman

I've done the drill hole thing and used great stuff. Like 2 cans per side. It's messy. You're not really sure if you've got to the end or not, then you've got way, way too much.

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Home Serve

Hey framerman,
What size can? Or like how much $$ per can. We set some windows the other day that were 78" tall, looked like a closet down in there, guess I should check and see about how many cu. inches one of them things fills.
Thanks,
dave

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Missouri Remodeling Company with services for Replacement Windows Vinyl Siding and Entry Doors

house bldr

I know its not always feasable but if you pull the outside casing it usually exposes the void and makes insulating easy. I have done this in a few cases when installing windows from the outside because of inside trim issues.

dougchips

[quote=Home Serve;303578]Most of the older houses around here have balloon framing and the cavity is several cubic feet. I tried great stuff once and it did not even fill up to the weight pocket. I also looked into buying larger foam units that come in boxes and have a bunch of hoses and confusing stuff. I would hate to look at a thermal image of a weight pocket with fiberglass, it can't be much better than a pocket with just dead air.

I use windows that have a .18 rating with Dow foaming in the frames and on the sides so at least the windows are energy efficient.

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tom m

Batt insulation is the best overall. Not perfect but no messy and expensive caustic goo to deal with. Since original sill and head un insulated your only upgrading by doing the cavitys. It will be alot better than it was.

Patrick

I usually throw out a BS price for us to remove all the interior casing, insulate and replace as that is the ONLY true way for it to be properly insulated, shockingly!!! LOL I haven't had any takers for that sort of service

framerman

Yeah, around here the pockets you are talking about come on a standard double hung that was built a billion times the same size. Our are like 54" high, every single one of them, then my neighbors is that way, then the guy down the street, my uncles, old nana's home, peg leg George...

Only about 2" wide x 4" deep x 54"-58" ballpark. 2 cans $5 apiece or whatever they are. High expanding foam. Drill like 6-8 holes, start at the bottom and let that set for awhile. Otherwise you get an endless flow of that stuff oozing for days if you spray too much.

Yours sounds different than what's around here. 78" tall, those were the rich folk!

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Custom Cabinetry and Woodworking- Portland, Cape Elizabeth, Scarborough, Kennebunkport, Yarmouth, Falmouth, Cumberland, Ogunquit, Maine

Whitten Custom Carpentry

theroofinggod

I usually throw out a BS price for us to remove all the interior casing, insulate and replace as that is the ONLY true way for it to be properly insulated, shockingly!!! LOL I haven't had any takers for that sort of service------Patricks right on the money here,I`ve done this several times,and also when the h/o says no to it we pull the access pieces and cram in fiberglass w/ a yardstick

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vinylguy

yeah its a great thing to show up to pick up the final payment and when you inspect the window all you see is the great stuff worms hanging from the trim LOL! it seems to ooze out from any little crack or crevise it can find.
we stick with fiberglass for now like someone sais until some new million dollar idea comes out and we all slap our foreheads and say dang why didn't i think of that!

philner

On the older balloon framed houses we blow cellulose into the jamb pockets which tends to flow into the header and sill areas.If you do it from the outside with the machine on top of a tarp the mess isn't too bad.On newer homes that still have weight pockets or on real budget jobs we might use fiberglass cut to size,But I've never been able to bring myself to leave them empty. phil

Jake Stevens

This is a new service we started this year and it has work well for us. We change them to a New-Con and complete trim package. It add big bucks and we are the only one's doing it. We did about 20 jobs this year with the new trim inside.

Patrick

Your the only ones offering new construction windows? ??

Jake Stevens

No, we are the only one's that offer the new inside trim package on the old houses with big jamb pockets. It's then that we change them to New-Con.

Patrick

O, we do that as well, all of our new construction windows always get NEW trim. However in our market, unless the customer comes to us requesting new construction, they will not spring the extra to do it. I'm assuming your using the new Harvey trim kits??

Jake Stevens

The windows we use are Lockheed, they are like Harvey's. We make our own trim. I do use Harvey's bow and bays I like them the best.