Installing Marvin Windows.

Alphabuilder422

Hi fellow contractor. I am in the process of installing a 6 Marvin windows for a client. We just Remove the existing 40 year old windows. We then installed the flashing as directed covering first the bottom, then the two sides and finally the top. Any expose wood and siding was cover with the black paper. We are schedule for inspection this coming Monday. However, my client just inform me that he has been checking on the internet and mention that a drip cap in needed. The drip cap (vinyl or aluminum) should be tucked under the old felt paper, and bent toward the exterior, directing water away from the window. My question is this needed to passed inspection? Please advice. thx!!!

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Silicon Valley California Builder
Second Generation Builder
www.svalphaconstruction.com

Alphabuilder422

here are some pictures.

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Silicon Valley California Builder
Second Generation Builder
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genecarp

dont know what your local codes are. also what is the nature of your inspection? ( framing, insulation, final,?) if it is the final, i would need to have the siding complete, and yes, that application would require a drip cap, before completing siding. i hope you knew that. also it would have been a good idea to deal with that wire before you installed the window, know someone has to trim it, while working around that nice window. drip cap would have been easier to slide in first also.

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Alphabuilder422

thx genecarp for the reply. It is a window inspection. they will be inspecting the flashing and window insulation. so you think I should install the drip cap? how difficult is it to install with the existing windows.

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genecarp

just a little finess required, clear the path, and wiggle it in

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Alphabuilder422

Genecarp, So break more stucco, cut the chicken wire, wiggle the drip cap in cover it with black paper, then flashing..... thx much.

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wallmaxx

How do you trim out the connection at where the stucco hits the window. Does stucco kill into the edge of the window and that's it? Sorry, I have no experience with the stuff.

As for windows...everything is redundancy.

1. Get to bare wood (sheathing).
2. Ensure house wrap it completely installed (like this example) Choose your specific application.
3. Tape sill.
4. Tape sides.
5. Caulk sides and bare wood at the top.
6. Set window.
7. Tape sides again over side flanges, extend 4" past top and bottom.
8. Tape over the top flange past the sides by 4".
9. Install metal flashing cap on the top. (Maybe with stucco there is side metal flashing too...i have no idea...but I bet my friend google does


uh....then....do whatever it takes when doing stucco and fill in to the window...I would guess matching the color would be high on the importance scale.

Take lots of pictures...if I ever have to do a stucco remodel it could help to see what I might be running into.

Good luck

genecarp

meet with your stucco guy, see what condition he requires to blend condition. slide cap under existing paper, or add new paper.

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j_builder

We are schedule for inspection this coming Monday.

That window installation is so wrong in so many ways before any window inspection...is this your first one?

Not to flame you Alphabuilder442,we're all here to better our trade experiences. but it is what it is.

1. Poorly done paper lapping,stapling,sealing.
2. Lath wire attachment (wire mesh tied to existing lath wire) needed.
3. Was this window caulked before installing?

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Alphabuilder422

J Builder. thx for the reply. So you think this will not pass inspection? I have stall windows before, but never Marvins window. I follow the same process i always have before. Black paper to cover any wood expose, Flashing over the window stall. Caulk before installing.

New Black paper was tuck under the existing black paper. Yes we staple the flashing.

We were planning to used the existing wire to packed it up. Do you think we need new wire around the edges?

Yes we caulk the windows before installing.

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j_builder

All I'm saying is that imo you need to address the building paper issues, see all the exposed/opened areas in the first pic at the lower left corner as well as around both the sides in picture #2?

I usually break/chip out all the stucco around the new window opening at least 9"-12" so that I can achieve enough new building paper coverage as well as to make it an easier task to tie new lathing wire and back it up with some wire mesh for the reason to try to prevent stucco cracking.

Never had a leaky window/door installation to date... I hate callbacks!

Not tryin' to bust your balls saying what I did, but would hate to see you fail on your window inspection or worst yet have a water/air leak.

Good Luck on your inspection

http://www.rambuilders.com/ut_pubdra...s/att_fwb3.gif

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Alphabuilder422

J Builder. you're the man. thx for the advice and heads up. I will make some adjustment and follow up with the posting to let you know how things went.

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Second Generation Builder
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easy sider

If your doing the windows only you should pass inspection. Leave the exterior finish , including the drip cap to the sider. Instead of cutting the mesh, fold it back so the sider can use it if needed.

j_builder

Just to let you know that in the future I've found that using Moiststop around the window/door rough openings (installed properly) will have a good seal tight application...
http://www.contractortalk.com/f3/caulking-replacement-windows-3659/

Easy Sider WHAT?

This is a stucco job not a siding job, plus why would anyone call for just a window inspection only? Window/flashing/lath/drywall/nail/staple schedule can be done in one inspection then move on to scratch coat another inspection brown coat-stucco texcoat or paint final inspection.

If the building inspector signs off on this window install...holding by breath now until Monday.

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easy sider

I realize that this is stucco. The window installer may have just been in charge of the window. The installation looks complete and properly flashed. Why wouldnt an inspector sign off on the windows.

The stucco installation should include the required drip cap if its needed. If the window is metal clad or vinyl framed why would there be a need for a drip cap ? This is not required in my area.

The top coat of the stucco would be chiped back by the applictor doing the work to blend the top coat to the existing wall. We usally dont mess up the exterior wall like in your picture to remove and replace a window, even in stucco or rock crete.

The cost of installing a replacement window gets steep as the scope of work increases and so does the liability. In WA there would not be an inspection on this unless you changed the opening size, in which case we would have a framing inspection and a final inspection.

Your inspection schedule sounds wrong. When stucco is done each layer isnt inspected.

Alphabuilder422

Thx guys for the comments. very helpful. I passed inspection! I made a little correction on the building paper place everything under the existing one. flashing was properly place in sequences. Drip cap was set in place, but was not sealed down. this was mainly to see if the inspector liked the patching job. Now the next set is pass stucco inspection. Current plan is to add chicken wire to the missing area and nail them into place. Then stucco will be apply as directed. Any comments on stucco is welcome.

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easy sider

Before the stucco goes on, the stucco around the cut needs to be evaluated, as to how much, if any is compromised. Chip the top coat back to allow the new finish to blend in with the old. Use a heat gun to remove paint. Mask off the windows and run your tape where the finish meets the window. It sounds like this is your first stucco job, so read a manual and follow the mixing directions and use the right tools. BTW, the drip cap is going to look like **** on that new window

good luck

415moto

I see that you are in the Bay Area. You didnt need the drip cap for inspection, or at least to pass. You'll notice that the vast majority of new builds and remodels they do not use drip caps, even when there are no eaves.

The window inspection is a joke, its just to keep harry homeowner from doing stupid stuff like cut out a RO for 6'0 window with a doubled 2x4 for a header on a load wall and things like that.

Are you putting stucco trim on that? Thats the only reason I would keep the busted out stucco that close to the window. If you were matching to old stucco, a wider opening would be better so you could flash a good amount under the old paper.

Alphabuilder422

thx guys for the reply, I will look into your advice Easy rider.

415moto. I didnt think the drip cap was necessary either. However the home owner insist we put it on to prevent the any water coming in a damaging the new $9k windows.

I will post picture of the stucco as it completes

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Alphabuilder422

Hi guys stucco window lath inspection pass with no issue. Stucco just completed.

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Silicon Valley California Builder
Second Generation Builder
www.svalphaconstruction.com