Input Needed For Installation "technique".

CJ001

Greetings, I have just completed my 4th install of Hardie siding and as I was working on the job I came up with what I believe may be a "cleaner" way to install this stuff for a top-notch finished look. Please tell me what you think...

On a couple jobs I have installed 1x4 frieze on the gables, up against the soffit. We then attempt to cut the siding as cleanly as possible for a nice fit against another piece of siding and where it butts up to the frieze. That joint along the frieze is then of coursed caulked.

What I may want to up-sell to the customer the next time is installing some low-grade 1x3 pine as frieze, butt the siding into that (as close as possible, but allow 1/8 or even 3/16" gaps) and then when the gable is completely covered, install the finish 1x4 frieze trim OVER the low-grade 1x3 "furring strip". The finished frieze would essentially hang over the angled "tail" of each Hardie plank by 1" or so, eliminate the need for caulk, help eliminate the sometimes necessary face nailing on such tails, and give a perfect finishing touch to the gable.

I was thinking the same could be done on the corner trim as well...

I'm sure someone will blast me for trying to get too "cute" or over complicating things, but please try to 1. Picture it and 2. Be objective.

Thanks,

CJ

loneframer

I would pack out with 1 layer of Hardy siding and cut a rabbet out of the back of your frieze to receive your siding, same with corners and window casing. You can caulk siding to the packer first then overlay the trim. We do this with cedar and have also done this with Azek trim to receive vinyl siding. Obviously we did not use Hardy to pack out but used the same tecnique.

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advanced_energy

you could create a J like effect and have the hardi go under the frieze after trimming out the frieze with some plywood.

CJ001

"I would pack out with 1 layer of Hardy siding and cut a rabbet out of the back of your frieze to receive your siding,"

Thanks for the suggestion, hadn't considered a rabbit and when I first read it I thought it sounded like a lot of work. HOWEVER, upon further review it would be the best way-no additional cost for the 1x3 pine.

loneframer

I never rabbeted Hardie, do they make a 1/2 inch thickness that could be layered to produce the same effect?

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Tom Struble

yes LF its called cedarmill trim its 7/16

loneframer

There you go. Pack with 7/16, overlay with 7/16. 2 1/2" rip for first layer, 3 1/2" wide second layer. Caulk to your packer, hide the rake cuts with the finish.Less chance of problems with Hardie packer.

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HomeSealed

That sounds like a lot of work. Versatex (which is basically the same as Azek) makes a "stealth" line in all different sizes including corners that is made for this purpose. It is a pretty nice product.

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advanced_energy

both azek and certainteed make trim boards/frieze with j-pockets.

loneframer

CJ001 If Azek trim is an option, you would have a much easier time with it. I was under the impression that you wanted to stick with Hardie. These pics show Azek trim. The barrels and frieze boards show the detail you speak of.

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Tom Struble

i love that job

loneframer

Thanks Tom, so do I, it's my only go with Hardie. That is also one of the projects that I framed and sided, so it really makes me feel proud everytime I see it. I learned alot on that project, hopefully I can also teach from it.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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