Ideas for wrapping windows - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

Home Serve · 05-02-2008, 07:41 AM

On new construction we have a job where the customer has two vaulted gable ends with about 12 windows each. We are putting vinyl log siding on the walls except between the windows where there is only about 12" of room. On these areas the customer wants aluminum coil to match the windows. I am looking for ideas as to how to do this and make it functional as far as protecting the wall and making it look nice. Also was wondering how might be the best way to transition from the siding to the wrapped areas and back to siding again below. We do not have a brake buddy now but this job may be a good reason to obtain one. I am not certain at this time what the detail is for the exterior frame of the windows. I am assuming them to be a simple flat molding similar to brick mold only vinyl (no built in J or similar).
Thanks for your ideas.

Dave C

**genecarp** · 05-02-2008, 07:46 AM

12'' alum, no good , use azek or similar product

Jake Stevens · 05-02-2008, 08:49 AM

That shouldn't be that big of a problem. Frame around your windows with 1" X 4" pine then put a 1" X 6" center over them which will build up between the windows so your Log siding will butt under the trim. It will also make steps for your coil and add detail to your window trim.

Patrick · 05-02-2008, 01:50 PM

Make a picture frame around the windows, and then for between the windows, cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to go between the windows, and leave about 1/8" - 1/4" between the wood and the windows, cover the plywood with silicone caulking, and press fit a piece of C shaped aluminum over the plywood, with legs that fit between the window and the plywood. NO nails, Check out the picture, thats how we did all the aluminum here. I even wrapped the entire inside of the room the same way, no visible nails.

Home Serve · 05-02-2008, 07:18 PM

Patrick, do you think 12" width to much to expect the coil to stay okay without a bend or crease from a brake buddy or something in it? I'm a little concerned with this width. How much silicone?
Thanks,
Dave C

Patrick · 05-02-2008, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Home Serve

Patrick, do you think 12" width to much to expect the coil to stay okay without a bend or crease from a brake buddy or something in it? I'm a little concerned with this width. How much silicone?
Thanks,
Dave C

I trimmed out a 2.5 story andersen window wall in this manner too, two years and still no canning. The other way you can do it, which I use sometimes, but its not as clean looking, however commercial store front guys have done it for years. Make undersill on the brake, and run it on the edges of the window, and then slip a 11-3/4" piece of coil into it, and just let it float no nails or caulk.

I load it up with silicone, then when you set the metal in it, take a towel and rub the coil so you spread out the caulk, otherwise i worry you might see trace lines from where the silicone bead is.

I use it a lot of times when we have weird window combinations and they want the look of one window. I try VERY VERY hard to have few or no exposed nails

It also works great for when your covering a bay or bow window top or bottom

BTW the brakebuddy is gods gift to the un talented. Mines been sitting in my a garage collecting dust. If any one wants to trade it for a pro cut off, Id love to hear from ya

oldfrt · 05-02-2008, 08:41 PM

I've done a few wide window trims in a similar situation with a X bend corner to corner across the face of the trim to give it a little dimension and strength.

It's a little tricky but the results can be impressive.

1) We start by trimming the window with a double layer of 1/2" plywood,leaving it about 1/8th" away from the window frame.

2)Then we will carefully measure the width and length of the space between the windows,making sure the adjacent windows is parallel.

3) Next mark out the back of a piece of coil with these dimensions,adding 1 1/2" to the trim length and width for finished cuts.

4) Mark lines on the back of the coil for the trim dimensions and bend corner to corner diagonally about 10 degrees,repeat for the apposing corners.The coil should have a diamond affect on the face.Practice may be necessary to get the diagonal bends equal.

5) Once you get the desired affect,bend each side 90*at the 1 1/2" mark and then take 1/2" and make a reverse hem( material finished side up in the brake)working your way around the outside perimeter so it still fits in the brake.You'll have to move the piece to the end of the brake to avoid the bends you have already made.

You can do three sides this way.The last side,usually the top we bend with hand tools.The top is bent at two 90*bends so the 1/2" that was used for the hem on the other three sides will slip under the top and form a water tight fit.

The reverse hems are left a little open so when they are pushed into the 1/8" space between the window and plywood they have to compress a little locking them in place.The only way you will get this piece off is by destroying it,so make sure it's right before it is forced into the 1/8" gap.

We usually use a stiff bladed putty knife to push the hem into place,working it slowly around the perimeter so as not to kink the face.

Like I said it's a little tricky,but it will never blow off and no adhesives or nails are needed.

I use this method for flat stock also around windows and add a built in J to receive vinyl siding .

I wish I could do a step by step drawing but don't have the capability,so I hope I explained it in a comprehensible way.

Patrick · 05-02-2008, 08:47 PM

One other thing I will add, is if you are looking for higher resistance to canning, we have used gutter coil before. We did a whole hotel with gutter coil once

Home Serve · 05-02-2008, 09:51 PM

Thanks for the ideas!!
Dave C

Home Serve · 05-03-2008, 05:49 PM

So as far as the transition between the vertical pieces of alum. coil over 3/4" ply and the siding below the windows (there is no trim or coil below the windows only siding) is water penetration behind the siding an issue? There will be a pc of J that runs along the bottom of the windows to recieve the siding. I'm wondering about diverting the water that runs down the coil in a positive way OVER the outside of the siding so it does not just hit the J and run behind. Have to make a pc of flashing out of matching coil here?

Thanks,
Dave

Patrick · 05-03-2008, 06:54 PM

WE never really bother. Before the plywood goes up we cover the whole area with window flashing tape, and then put a bunch of silicone on top of the J where it meets the wall, and just kinda set the plywood into the silicone, same thing at the top, use a bunch of caulking, but just make sure that its not visible once your metalwork is all done. if you make everything tight, with your finish metal, your not going to get a whole lot of water back there.

another thing I do is run a bead of caulking in the gap between the plywood and the window before i put the metal in, that seals it and sorta holds the metal more.

Play around with the width on the metal, you will find that perfect dimension that makes the metal just sorta snap in there. If its nearly impossible for you to remove once you put it in, that means you made it the right size!

easy sider · 05-07-2008, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick

Make a picture frame around the windows, and then for between the windows, cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to go between the windows, and leave about 1/8" - 1/4" between the wood and the windows, cover the plywood with silicone caulking, and press fit a piece of C shaped aluminum over the plywood, with legs that fit between the window and the plywood. NO nails, Check out the picture, thats how we did all the aluminum here. I even wrapped the entire inside of the room the same way, no visible nails.

This is the way we do it, except we use geocell instead of silicon. We did the City Ice building and Trident Seafood building on pier 91 inside and out with some wraps 20 inches wide and 30 ft high. Flat looks best.

Home Serve · 05-07-2008, 06:32 PM

Easy, I found out today that the HO ordered windows that have built in J. I would not have ordered those in this situation but too late. I am thinking of using the method of building out from the wall with something slightly strong of the J and then sliding a piece of coil up in "friction fit". Just a couple nails to hold in place, probably won't use caulk on backer cause we will probably end up with it all over the place.
Thanks,
Dave

easy sider · 05-08-2008, 02:00 AM

Wow, that type of window trim may not accept the log type vinyl siding, however it may provide a nice edge for your wraps.