Hardie Shingle

Marker

Anyone have much experience installing hardie shingle? I have not seen much of it and am considering it for a remodel job. It comes in
16"x48" sheets, not cheap to buy and my guess is time consuming and therefore costly to put up right. Hardie spec is it has to be nailed on studs if back board is not wood.

thoughts

Toothpick

I used them this past spring for the first and only time. Yes, I about cr@pped when I saw how much they were especially prepainted and I over ordered about 3/4 square . Coming in that large of panel I imagine they go up fairly quikley in the open areas, the job we did it was used in small accent areas and a dormer. If I rememeber right you can free nail if you have ply or osb sheathing.

Hardie has a good service program and will come out to the job site for "lessons" on installing. If you get them out make sure to ask for some hardie blades, he was pretty generous to us but then again we had 100 sheets of 4 x 10 hardpanel too.

osborn

We did a room addition a couple years ago. It was about 7 square. I prefer using shears to cut. The trickieast part of the shingles is under doors and windows. You will need to face nail the the shingles.

Marker

Thanks for the ideas, I brought a hardie shear a while back to avoid the dust and mess from cutting that stuff. If you ask me the shear is easier and safer to work with.

Osborn hit on one of my concerns of how to cover under windows and other cut outs without having to face nail. Doesn't seem like there is a way around it. Hardie does not address it in their install instructions.

Another concern is how to keep nice clean straight lines with this stuff on long runs since it goes up in 4' pieces. I have seen this stuff put up on other sites and not have clean lines (straight edge shingle).

I need to create a cedar shake look on this house to give it some curb appeal, its in an older neighborhood, so I want to give it more of a traditional look, make it pop.

Looks like this pop will come with some pain.

osborn

Its not that bad to install. We snapped lines. It only took a little extra time to snap the lines and made for quick nailing. Four foot pieces where easy for one guy to install. They are easy to handle for one guy. One of us nailed the other cut and kept the nailer stocked with a pile. Face nailing is a pain on prepainted. We had get creative when it came to the pattern under doors and windows.

needthingsdone?

I have done quite a few sections with staggered hardie shingle. Snapping lines is the only way to do the staggered. with the straight edge you could use malco face gauges. There is quite a bit of waste on gables, probably 30% or more on smaller gables. face nailing under windows is the only way as well as on gables when you have cut a tab free from the rest of the piece. Although it isn't addressed in hardies "destructions", we glue and face nail with 15G finish nails for a cleaner look than using or regular galvanized .092 siding nails.

__________________
"It's not the first freakin' time I've done this you know!"

Marker

Ok, you guys sold me on it, I'll give it a run and see how it turns out. Can't get over the face nailing under windows, but the paint will hide them.

have a great holiday.

marker

needthingsdone?

Don't you have to face nail under windows regardless of which type of lap or shingle siding you're using?

__________________
"It's not the first freakin' time I've done this you know!"

Koots

Do you accomplish this with a cut out below the window?

And what about manual shears and nibblers, any luck?

Cheers, Jimmy

clapboard

Real head lap - Can't argue with this product. Nichiha works great also - looks great but it is really a clapboard 1/2" thick and joints are about invisible.