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05-04-2009, 06:57 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Trade:
siding
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 18
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Hardie repairs
I don't have that much experience with Hardie, Mainly vinal. I have to go fix some hardie that has blown off and some dammage pieces. What is the best way to get the old piece out without breaking the next piece above? Can i face nail with my 16 gauge nailer? Will this hold? Why would the hardie blow off? the only thing I can see thats wrong with the install is that the nails are angled like he was trying to push the board tight to the next. Some of the boards are really loose and the HO complains they make noise in the wind. Does Hardie always give this much trouble and if so why do people think it is so great?
Not my work but it's up to me to fix it.
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05-04-2009, 07:03 PM
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#2
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Pro
Trade:
siding
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 1,851
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whats the exposure? whats it nailed too? it should be the studs,you could use a slate ripper or carefully cut the nails with a hacksaw blade.careful of the wrb
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05-04-2009, 07:06 PM
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#3
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---
Trade:
residential framing/general carpentry
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 3,585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siding guy23
I don't have that much experience with Hardie, Mainly vinal. I have to go fix some hardie that has blown off and some dammage pieces. What is the best way to get the old piece out without breaking the next piece above? Can i face nail with my 16 gauge nailer? Will this hold? Why would the hardie blow off? the only thing I can see thats wrong with the install is that the nails are angled like he was trying to push the board tight to the next. Some of the boards are really loose and the HO complains they make noise in the wind. Does Hardie always give this much trouble and if so why do people think it is so great?
Not my work but it's up to me to fix it.
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Sounds like the Hardie wasn't nailed properly. It should be stud-nailed, the angled nails you mentioned may be from the weight of the siding working the nails downward. I wouldn't use a 16 ga. nail to fasten it back up. At the very least I would use a 2 3/8 stainless, ring shanked siding nail. If it were installed properly, it would look something like this.
__________________
" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
Last edited by loneframer; 08-15-2009 at 05:56 AM.
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05-04-2009, 07:10 PM
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#4
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Pro
Trade:
Framing,Remodeling,General Contractor
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 613
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Is that the pre=finished?
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05-04-2009, 07:10 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Trade:
siding
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 18
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7" exposure and the nails pulled through the siding. There is lots of nails in it (every 10" i would say) Maybe shot too deep?
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05-04-2009, 07:13 PM
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#6
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Pro
Trade:
Framing,Remodeling,General Contractor
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 613
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Read the instructions. That is what I did.
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05-04-2009, 07:18 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Trade:
siding
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 18
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Instructions don't say much about repairs. Its my experience that the guys that install this stuff everyday have more knowledge anyway. It seems that if you try to remove one piece you end up damageing about 3 more.+/-
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05-04-2009, 07:26 PM
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#8
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Pro
Trade:
siding
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 1,851
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could be too deep what kind of nail? ringshank? roofer? see every 10'' sounds to me like the studs werent marked and nailed into,
other installers say you dont have to stud nail but i always do
Last edited by tomstruble; 05-04-2009 at 07:38 PM.
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05-04-2009, 07:33 PM
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#9
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---
Trade:
residential framing/general carpentry
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 3,585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knucklehead
Is that the pre=finished?
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Yup, 2002, this pic was taken in '07. Still looks nice. It was topcoated after install also.
__________________
" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
Last edited by loneframer; 05-04-2009 at 07:36 PM.
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05-04-2009, 07:38 PM
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#10
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Pro
Trade:
trim carpentry
Join Date: May 2007
Location: south ga
Posts: 630
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I've had success when removing pieces by prying out at the bottom and wiggling the piece until it breaks free from the nails. then gently pry the above piece out enough to cut the nails with dykes. you have no choice but to face nail the new piece back in though.
back when I was framing we used the flush tip for the framing guns when nailing hardi. keeps the nails from going to deep
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05-04-2009, 08:18 PM
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#11
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Pro
Trade:
Framing,Remodeling,General Contractor
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 613
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I hate that stuff. It should be face nailed.
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05-04-2009, 08:39 PM
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#12
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Pro
Trade:
General, Electrical, and Plumbing Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, OR & Eatonville, WA
Posts: 722
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10" spacing sounds like mentioned already, not into studs.
How far from the top edge are the nails? 1" or something like 1/4".
If the nails are too high like 1/4" from top, then I could see why the siding is flapping.
As for removing try getting a wood block, lay it under the siding and give it a good whack with a hammer up. The siding is fairly brittle and this should get it to crack where the nails are. Then just pull it down and remove any left over pieces and cut the nails. Also cut the caulking before doing this.
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05-05-2009, 01:20 AM
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#13
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Coming out of the closet
Trade:
Closet Design-Install-Remodel
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Nor-Cal Baby!
Posts: 104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loneframer
Sounds like the Hardie wasn't nailed properly. It should be stud-nailed, the angled nails you mentioned may be from the weight of the siding working the nails downward. I wouldn't use a 16 ga. nail to fasten it back up. At the very least I would use a 2 3/8 stainless, ring shanked siding nail. If it were installed properly, it would look something like this. 
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I think you mean ultimately you would use that nail.
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05-05-2009, 07:32 AM
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#14
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Member
Trade:
Exteriors
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Parksville B.C. Canada
Posts: 55
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The best way to remove a damaged board is like mmike032 said lift from the bottom of the board gently prying it in and out and it will break free from the nails... Hardi should always be nailed to studs no matter what.improper installation is the killer. you should nail 1" from the the top of board to keep a tight lap
Here where I live we also have a rainscreen system that gets installed prior to exterior which is stud nailed......... makes it quick and easy to find your stud
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05-05-2009, 05:37 PM
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#15
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Trade:
residential framing/general carpentry
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 3,585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClosetPro
I think you mean ultimately you would use that nail.
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Ultimately I would use a coiled siding nailer with stainless 2 3/8 ring shank siding nails.
__________________
" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
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05-05-2009, 05:57 PM
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#16
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Sophisticated Siding Guy.
Trade:
Siding and Trim Specialist
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 255
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How many threads have you posted those pics in loneframer? Little proud of yourself?
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05-05-2009, 06:04 PM
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#17
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Pro
Trade:
Siding, Windows, Seamless Gutters, Metal Roofing
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,734
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Here ya go.... this is what we use
__________________
Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.
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05-05-2009, 06:16 PM
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#18
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---
Trade:
residential framing/general carpentry
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 3,585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thesidingpro
How many threads have you posted those pics in loneframer? Little proud of yourself? 
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I intend to post it in any thread that it is relavent to. I framed it, I sided it, and I'm proud of it. Guilty as charged. BTW, I intend to get pics of alot of other projects I've done when I didn't have a camera.  
__________________
" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
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05-05-2009, 06:25 PM
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#19
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Capra aegagrus
Trade:
Remodeler
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,886
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05-05-2009, 07:31 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Trade:
siding
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 18
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Well i did those repairs today. It seemed that for every piece i changed a couple more had to be changed in the process (I guess i got a little to "rammy"). It seems that the Hardie gets even more brittle over time. Looking around the one house I think i will have more work to do before the builders one year warranty is up. rggg. By they way the 10" spaceing was a "visual measeurement" it may have been every 8" hitting every other into a stud. The fact still remains that the nail didn't pull out of the wall, it pulled through the siding. It was half way up the wall on a 3 story walk-out and with no shelter break it gets really windy. Spiral shanked siding nails were used. I don't know if such a thing exists but to me a ring shanked, coil roofing nailer would be the thing to use with a bigger head, it would be tougher to pull through.
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