Help!! The blunt question is: What is a reasonable "price range" for the per square installation cost of hardie plank or other comparable cement siding? (either as a contractor or as what you might pay a sub to do it for you)
The sample base is a newly constructed 2 story, split level entry, deck in front and back, normal windows and doors home on the north-central Oregon coast.
Realizing there are so many variables can anyone tell me how the cost of putting on hardie plank compares with other siding applications such as cedar lap siding, T1-11, cedar shingles, vinyl siding, etc.
One other criteria - - do any of these costs include window wrap, corner boards, soffitt installation, or whatever else? What is the standard norm?
That's what my subs charge me so I am about $200 a square.
However I can't say enough charging the going rate is a great way to shoot yourself int he foot! If you are slower than the average you will make less. Determine how many squares you can do in a day, determine what you need to earn per day, do the math: daily wage divided by squares per day = cost per square. That's the only way it can be done.
Don't forget to factor in all your labor burdens and overhead.
i've done hardie plank before, but not on a daily basis, any guys in NJ here can tell me what roughly 30 sq of hardie, and corners, 5 sq of soffit material, no window trim, but new rakes, faschias, all in azek would cost.
i'm asking this for my roofing/siding guy who is quoting a job for hardie, he does mostly vinyl and i know he's not a hack, he does great quality work when it comes to roofing and vinyl. he's asking me about hardie since he knows i have done it.he shot me a number for the whole job, including labor. the house has two sets of soffits, since the second floor is cantilevered out over the first floor, the back is 3 stories due to the walk out basement.
thanks guys.
ive only done hardie when i was already there doign a big addition so i really didn't price it out separately.
I honestly can't tell if your post is a joke or not. There's alot of funny guy's on this site so it's hard to tell. You sound serious but then again you almost 500 posts so you should know that no one can answer this for you.
I've hung 10 sq. a day for weeks straight but I've also had weeks of 2 sq. days. Each job is different.
Even if I had the print in front of me it will still take some time give an estimate. What makes you think that by your vague description anyone good give you anything accurate?
i know that each job is different but my friend wants to know if hes even i the ballpark for the job, i wasn't looking for someone from outside of NJ to really answer the questions i had. was simply looking for someone here in NJ who does hardie on a regular basis to tell me what they are charging roughly per sq of siding installed. this guy is at 32k for the whole job. including corners, soffits,rakes, and installing the siding, no caulking though, the painter will do that when they are done.
My brother in law bids it out at over $600.00 per sq in Bend Oregon on new construction only material & labor no paint or caulk. In central Washington we were selling cement board on new construction to contractors , material & labor ,no paint or caulk for $300.00 per sq. The cement board over here is about $90.00 a sq. for easy line 8.25 plank. We wont do retro with cement board. There are alot of guys who will install this on new construction for less than $90.00 no paint or caulk labor only.
I just recently built a 8 unit town house building for my builder. I do the framing,roofing,siding,etc I have a 8 man crew. Now he decided he would like the look of hardie siding on the fronts of these buildings. he ordered in 8.25 hardie The rep when he came out says you wont see any face nails??
he says you blind nail this product now Im thinking (and I never had the pleasure of installing this before I been in the buisiness since I was a kid Im 46 now), Wont the siding tend to be flappy at lower edge or is this stuff that stout? clue me in on this guys I just found this site and already Im seeing prices to install @ 100.-400 to install. I intend to keep track of my hours and go on this. thanks guys
siding is stiff. it wont' be flappy at all. i've only blind nailed all the hardie i have put up and it's completely fine. and used standard galv roof nails 1 1/2" and roof gun. blind nailing is really the best way to do it. no nails to set and fill later on, saves the customer money when it's time to caulk and paint.
i have seen some jobs where the guy had no idea what he was doing and he face nailed it exposed with "roof nails" and then the painter just painted over them, looked horrible. couldn't believe the homeowner let the guy do it and get away with it.
In windy areas you need to nail the botton outside corners of the panel down. We use a finish nail gun with a 2 inch nail for this. Make sure you practice hold the gun square and flat to the surface you are nailing or you might blow the corner out.
NEED INFO PLEASE,
was always a cedar and pine guy, but now I'm doing my own house in Hardy.
How much waste on a typical colonial, not inc. gables?
What about Hardy shakes on gables, and how much waste?
What's the best cutting and shaping blades or shears out there, and where can I buy?
ANY INFO WOULD BE APPRECIATED!
NEED INFO PLEASE,
was always a cedar and pine guy, but now I'm doing my own house in Hardy.
How much waste on a typical colonial, not inc. gables?
What about Hardy shakes on gables, and how much waste?
What's the best cutting and shaping blades or shears out there, and where can I buy?
ANY INFO WOULD BE APPRECIATED!
Hardie shake is a good product easy to use there are only three sizes so its easy to make a pattern so you keys dont line up and minimal waist i would say maybe 10% best tools would be a makita skill with hardie blade makita seems to be the one with the best bearings and 10 inch compound chop saw by the hitachi blades they last the longest and stay sharp you can get them perty much any matirial store even home depot has them dont like the shears very much slow cant do rips and knotches if you are good with a saw works the best bin doing hardie and siding for many years hope this helps
I use a circ saw with hardie blade for straight cuts, but for custom fitting cuts i use snapper shear brand shears.
some other guys can chime in on the waste factor for shakes because i haven't used the hardie shakes. I usually do 10-15% waste factor for plank siding.
I'm in Florida and we blind nail the planks with a roofing nailer then come back with a finish nailer and hit the boards about every 4 feet. Once painted you don't see the finish nails at all. Makes for a tight install.
Hardie pricing is based on the exposure. It takes the same amount of time to put on a 4" exposure piece as it does a 8" exposure piece. Therefore we pay $12 per piece of hardie which is $3 per square foot for 4" exp. and $1.5 per square foot for 8" exposure. Wood trims, building wrap, flashings, strapping, and soffits are all separate prices.
Note: the above is labour only. Insurance, materials, taxes and markup are extra.
If it were me depending on the build or house you are looking at a buck sixty per square and thats not including trim or envalope thats a good starting price then every thing else starts from there:thumbsup:
Fiber cement siding requires more planning, a larger work force, and takes longer to install due to its weight and composition.
Fiber cement siding weighs about 300 pounds per square, compared to 60 to 70 pounds per square for vinyl siding.
Moving this stuff is hard work and you don't want to move it more than once.
You need more employees on the job to move and support the boards as they go up and cutting them is time consuming
which will drive your labor and installation costs to double or triple the cost of installing vinyl siding.
As compared to a vinyl product of similar cost the cost with installation should be 40% to 50% higher.
According to my James Hardie sales rep, the national average for contractors who install Hardie Plank is $900 to $1,000 per square including soffit and trim.
As always there are guys who are looking to make a days pay and give the job away, many of these guys pay employees as 1099 subs without workers comp., taxes and FICA, carry minimal insurance and may even use undocumented laborers.
You can't operate a business for profit, carry all the proper insurances, bonds, workers compensation and do this work on the cheap.
Just for sh*ts and giggles:
Hardie Plank Color Plus cost: $150 per square
Tyvek Cost: $100 per square
3 men installing 3 - 4 squares per day: $750 = $215 per square
(in NY workers comp. alone cost almost $60 per man day)
Coil Nails, staples, Saw Blades, other equipment and materials: $55 per square
Total COST to contractor per square: $520
Add Overhead & Profit 30%: $156 per square
Your customer should pay: $676.00 per square
This DOES NOT include Soffit or Trim - add in the soffit and trim and you will be close to the national average of $900 - $1,000.
According to my James Hardie sales rep, the national average for contractors who install Hardie Plank is $900 to $1,000 per square including soffit and trim.
about 600 a square for me.also i would like to add i never use a roofing nailer i prefer using a coil nailer with 2 and a quater shank nails because i dont think roofing nails hold well and they definetly dont get in the stud much wich is needed i think in my windy area and i face nail all but joints and edges against windows,corners etc. with stainless nails and as needed in the field if not laying down tight.
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