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09-28-2009, 08:38 PM
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#1
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New Guy
Trade:
Homebuilder/renovator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 21
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Hardie over cupped shiplap
I am looking at my first Hardie install on a 100 yr old house. The house was sheathed with shiplap which has cupped. Renailing the shiplap flattens it some, but the wood is brittle, and generally cracks, and is still not flat. How much is this going to show through the hardie? How should the problem be addressed?
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09-28-2009, 09:06 PM
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#2
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling general
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Annapolis Md
Posts: 1,512
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Do the client a favor
tear it off, insulate, sheath and tyvek and then put up the new siding
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09-28-2009, 10:50 PM
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#3
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Official CT Greeter!
Trade:
General Construction
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Canton IL
Posts: 590
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ditto...
__________________
"Your problem does not constitute an emergency on my part"
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09-28-2009, 11:11 PM
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#4
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New Guy
Trade:
Homebuilder/renovator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 21
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The owner had the building insulated previously when he reno'd the interior - insul, vb, drywall. I am sure I would not get a warm response if I suggest resheathing.
I have already stripped 3" of various siding materials. Hoping for a less drastic solution - furring strips?
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09-29-2009, 08:15 PM
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#5
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finish carpenter
Trade:
finish Carpenter/ renovations
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: ns, canada
Posts: 612
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did something similar this time last year, wasnt my call just installing. i wanted to strip off the old, gc said just strap and side. i said hes gonna get a callback
curious as to how the house is holding up...
__________________
cutting some wood
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09-29-2009, 08:22 PM
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#6
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Pro
Trade:
Framing,Remodeling,General Contractor
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pegasush
I am looking at my first Hardie install on a 100 yr old house. The house was sheathed with shiplap which has cupped. Renailing the shiplap flattens it some, but the wood is brittle, and generally cracks, and is still not flat. How much is this going to show through the hardie? How should the problem be addressed?
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Do you mean the shiplap is directly on the framing?
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09-29-2009, 08:26 PM
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#7
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Sean
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cullman, AL
Posts: 3,419
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You can strap it (you need to make sure its plumb with no waving), but I agree with the resheathe
I would present both options to the HO under the good, better, best options
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09-29-2009, 09:08 PM
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#8
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New Guy
Trade:
Homebuilder/renovator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 21
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Yes the shiplap is directly on framing - old fir studs, hard as hell.
Had another go today at tightening the sheathing. Used a sheathing stapler, 2" legs. Worked a lot better at pulling the shiplap tight and holding it, but still far from flat.
Furring - what to use? I read one thread where everything down to a doubled strip of felt has been advocated. I was thinking of using 3/4 x 3" strips of ply - too much, not enough, or just right?
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09-30-2009, 07:54 PM
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#9
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Member
Trade:
James Hardie Hardiplank siding Gold contractor
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 42
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My Crew and I have ran into this problem before with an older house. What we did was rip down a few 2 inch rips of hardie for shims, then take your chalkline and put it flat on the wall to see what studs need to be shimed out. The hardie will float the bow in the wall. One bad thing about hardie is it will very easily show thw bow in the wall.
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