Hardie Ove I.C.F.

Tom Struble

looking at a job around Lake George N.Y. the plans call for hardie plank over i.c.f. The form manufacture says you can use ringshanks in the plastic web but screws are recommended.
No wrb is required,they are not to clear on siding flashing details.

Any thoughts,tips ,insite would be appreciated

loneframer

I'm curious as to whether the plastic is going to coincide with fastener locations. Will they guarantee the installation if their fastening method is adhered to? I wish I had practical experience to share, but I don't have pics of this particular monster. Anyway, I believe you will endure sleepless nights to figure it all out, if need be. Hope someones got answers for you.

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Tom Struble

thats the thing hardie has no recommendations and the form manufacturer says follow the siding manufacturers recommendation

MALCO.New.York

.There is always the missing "R" factor to contend with!!!!!.

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Chris Johnson

Okay, here is how you do Hardi over ICF

Start by having a sheet metal guy bend you some (My preference) 20g steel, 12"x12" by the height of the wall, this is going to be used for the inside and outside corners. Attach it to the webs, you are now ready to do the corner details. Depending on the window detail you may have to run some 12" flat stock from the window flange out, secure on the flange and the web.

To install the siding and it's trims you should use Hardi screws from Grabber, self drive tip and large diameter head. It will secure to the webs nicely, as well as the sheet metal you put in for the corners and windows.

I know some people say use nails, issues can arise, maybe not today, but think about a ring nail and shooting it into a fairly solid piece of plastic, good chance the plastic will crack. I promise you if you are within a 1/4" of the edge of the plastic web it will crack. Now that summer is here the plastic webs are plyable but come winter they crack and snap.

Since you have to supply a warranty do yourself a favor, use screws.

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Chris

wallmaxx

I just did this...I attached Hardie to ICF with screws. The problem with screws or nails is that no matter what your lap spacing (mine was 7" reveal) at some point you will get a row where your nails/screws will be at the horizontal joint of a row of blocks. There is no plastic strip in the foam when this happens.

You can either screw some thin flashing strips to the ICF to bridge this fastening gap and then screw the hardie through the flashing...or install PT furring strips vertically, full length, on the ICF and side to the furring strips.

Ours turned out okay.

loneframer

Ahhhhhhhh, the old shell game, is the answer over here? Maybe it's over here. What about over there? The answer is, make up your own set of guidelines, just make sure you're covered on the backside. Pun intended. Reminds me of an architect whose plans always had "field verify" and (+/-) on all critical dimensions.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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Tom Struble

intresting, thankyou for the replies,i didint think about using 20 ga at the corners and windows, thats smart

and furring the house provides a nice rainscreen detail, although the forms seem to have one built in

Chris Johnson

The ICF forms according to all ICC reports act as a air and moisture barrier, I would still add something behind the siding as extra protection. There is a thing known as too much vapor barrier, but not air and moisture barrier on the outside.

For the last few years I have been using GreenGuard, it's special order, it's directional, it has a top and bottom.

Strapping the wall works, but in my opinion it is more work than sheet metal where needed...depending on the size of the job.

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Tom Struble

Thanks Chris ive used the greengaurd wrb before good idea