Hardi on dormers,shingle clearance - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

jetfxr · 12-29-2008, 11:20 AM

I'm trying to get some ideas on installing hardi plank on dormers where the siding meets the shingles. I know you should have an inch or two clearance between the two, but want a good sharp edge and was thinking of using a
1x2 following the roof line and then siding up to that. I was thinking that would also help protect the cut edge from wicking up moisture. Any thoughts?

Grumpy · 12-29-2008, 12:55 PM

Leave 3/4" between the shingles and what ever other material be it the siding or a 1x2. Wicking is a problem but to be honest with snow there isn't much that can be done about it.

thesidingpro · 12-29-2008, 07:24 PM

I'll take a 1x4 rip it down the middle and leave that about 1/2" off the shingles. Then put a piece of z flashing and cut the hardie to fit.

tomstruble · 12-29-2008, 09:43 PM

i first counter flash the roof with aluminum hem 1 1/2 x6 i wrap a 12'' pc of tyvek ontop of thatthen 1x4 hardi or azek z flash tyvek then siding up 1/2 off that. when the roof needs to be done its easier to get to the step flashing by just pulling a pc of trim this detail can also be done inan aluminum wrap also

jetfxr · 12-30-2008, 03:39 PM

Thanks for your ideas. The siding I'm replacing is rotted 6 to 10 inches from the edge due to the installer running them directly on the shingles.

BusterBrown · 04-07-2009, 05:09 PM

Looking for Hardi contractor for job in Charlestown Indiana. New home. thesidingpro Are you interested? how do I contact you? medimage@gmail.com

Javelin350 · 09-26-2009, 07:35 PM

We either use a 2 inch rip of fypon on the room lines or a new product called flashing by design which is a piece of boxed steel 2 inches tall with a 2 inch nailer lot cheaper the fypon or azex

woodworkbykirk · 09-27-2009, 09:06 AM

this time last year i did a harti job for a general, there were two bump outs on the house, i asked him for some dark metal to put down a flashing to run up the rooflines. this is where the battle began,

he told me to simply bend up a aluminum j channel and sit the harti down in it. told him that it cant be done without voiding the warrenty as it has to have a a clearance of 1" at least. hed be creating a trough to sit the stuff in and its simply going to sell up and crumble. needless this was the last job i did for him as i couldnt do anymore jobs for him where he was asking for callbacks doing things his way.

needless. normally i will grab a chunk of decking and sit it down on the roof and use it as a spacer to keep it off the shingles. then a second piece to use as a scribe for tweaking the angle of the slash cut to keep it consistant

tccoggs · 09-27-2009, 12:09 PM

I lay a spacer of 3/4 on the roof surface, then place a peice of 5/4 x 4 PVC trim on that. Bend a peice of z flashing over the PVC, a lay in your siding. You now have 4 inches of clearance, and I think its looks so much better that just slamming the siding into the roofline. The 3/4 gap on the roof will keep spooge from collecting in there, and if you wanted to do a layover roof in the future, there is plenty of room for another layer. I also use a dryflekt at the bottom where needed

We Fix Houses · 09-27-2009, 01:30 PM

Good suggestions above about a spacer. What's the remainder house detail look like ?

Had a fellow contractor call me about a similar job after the fact. Reinstalled to about 3/4" of the shingles same detail as the rest of the house (rear dormer). HO said it wasn't right. HO got another contractor's letter that stated 2" is the proper install method. James Hardie download says 2" too. HO held back $900 of $1800. Never was resolved.

Be sure to communicate what's occuring as it relates to the repair and existing.

Addl - Looks like Northern installation is 2" and Southern intallation is 1 - 2 "

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...nkLapSiding.py

I also just saw a FHB mag cover that looked like 2". That was probably a northern install.

You can fill in your location in your profile.

We Fix Houses · 09-27-2009, 01:45 PM

kinda of an old thread but the install details on this stuff change.

tomstruble · 09-27-2009, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Javelin350

We either use a 2 inch rip of fypon on the room lines or a new product called flashing by design which is a piece of boxed steel 2 inches tall with a 2 inch nailer lot cheaper the fypon or azex

you have a link for this product?

neolitic · 09-27-2009, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomstruble

you have a link for this product?

http://www.flashingbydesign.com/

Surprised no one mentioned,
I always "clip the tip."

Javelin350 · 09-27-2009, 06:45 PM

yea we use that on every deck, door stoup, or roof line. its fun when you got to wrap a chimeny with diffarent roof lines running to it, to make it look good. You gots to be good with metal. triming it out with fypon rips would be so much easy put more $$

joemeowers · 12-23-2009, 10:33 AM

Flashing By Design! Didn't think I would run in to anyone else that's used this product. Here is a picture of the 2" trim piece from Flashing By Design in action on one of my jobs. Great stuff for us folk who live in the harsh-weathered Minnesota (and any other place, too, I'd wager).