Fibercement Help

Patrick

Hardi Help The only fiber cement jobs we have done were either new construction, or older homes with new Andersen windows. How do you go about trimming windows on a old house that has 2" brickmould and replacement windows? We are looking at azek for the trim work.

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

thesidingpro

Can you not remove existing brick mold and attach azek to the window frame?

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Patrick

I am worried about the old windows falling out if i remove the brickmold. There are old andersens which were attached to the house with 10's through the brickmold. now there are replacement windows in the frame. Anyone ever wrapped the trim and then run fibercement up to the coil

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

thesidingpro

I've done it a lot. Normally if people are wanting the the look of hardie they don't like the metal look though around the windows.

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Jason Whipple

You do pretty nice metal work. I would say that's your best option in this case. Besides Hardi XLD and Azek both have smoth finishes anyway. Not much difference in the final look either way IMO.

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Jason E Whipple, General Manager
Historic House Restoration, Cincinnati, Ohio
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Patrick

When you say you have done it alot, do you mean you have removed the brickmould? What do you do to cover the wooden stop? Im just worried the windows will fall out, and we will crack all the inside trim as we remove the brickmold

The thing that works in my favor though is that the window they have is a Harvey Majesty, which is aluminum clad. There is also a receiver slot in the master frame which I could tuck my metal into.

We just set up to become an eagle window dealer. SWEET windows. Jason you may be interested in them, I think they look a million times better than marvin pella and andersen, although eagle is now owned by andersen.

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

72chevy4x4

I'm pretty sure some of the Azek comes in wood grain. If not, there are comparable products that do come in wood grain.

easy sider

If the window is aluminum clad exterior isnt the brick mold clad. The brick molding should have a 5/4 edge out so the hardie should fit unless its recessed because of exisiting siding. Also if you cut the top and bottom of the existing trim back 4 inches and put new trim up the sides then remove and replace the top and bottom shouldnt that hold the window in place as you retrim.
Good Luck

neolitic

There is an outfit around here that
uses a wood grain aluminum bent
or rolled to match the brick mold profile.
Do you have that trick in your bag?

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Patrick

I do, but its a question of "were paying for hardie, but using a vinyl siding technique for out window trim"

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

Patrick

no its an aluminum clad replacement window in an old andersen 60's wood window frame with 2" brickmold and a sill. The problem is those old andersen windows were installed with 10's shot through the brickmould. So the problem is as we remove the brickmould, the windows are going to move around in the process, and we will likely break the seams on the interior molding, and perhaps move the window out of square/plumb.

__________________
Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

neolitic

Maybe just add a 5/4 X 1½" or 2" Azek
around the brick mold?
You could probably pull the old
brick mold with cat's paws for the
casing nails.
It's probably stapled to the jambs
though.
I understand the concerns, it'll
be kind of like surgery rather
than demo.

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Put your location in your profile!
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easy sider

You seem skilled enough to make this work.

Jason Whipple

Cut the nails with a reciprocating saw to free up the brick molding from the house. Then switch the replacement window screws with longer ones so it hits the framing (if needed). Toss a few trim head screws in the old jams and carefully remove the exterior casing from the jamb.

If you wrap it with metal you also get the benefit of flashing if done right.

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Jason E Whipple, General Manager
Historic House Restoration, Cincinnati, Ohio
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Patrick

Thanks Jason, I really like the idea of wrapping them That way the stops wont be seen either.

OK SOOOOOOOO.... What do I do bout the soffits facias etc? Plywood and pine right now. Hardie soffit looks like crap. Im thinking certainteed 2" beaded soffit? Any thing else that looks good that would be paint able? I am going nuts, I have NEVER had this much work before, I am booked for siding well into winter right now, and have a ton of large scale projects sitting on my desk waiting for a price. Were doing a federal siding project right now, which is good money but its in the ghetto

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

Jason Whipple

Check out Nantucket Beadboard Co. They have an exterior product that I like to use for porch ceilings. Comes in 8' and 10' lengths and has several patterns to choose from.

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Jason E Whipple, General Manager
Historic House Restoration, Cincinnati, Ohio
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