Difficult Window Install

Patrick

I thought even at my young age I had seen it all when it comes to replacing windows but this upcoming job i just measured for has me baffled. With the parting stop removed there is only 2-1/2" between the exterior stop and the window stool/interior stops. Nothing to odd about that I would normally just remove the exterior stops with a jamb saw install the window from the outside add new trim and wrap it, HERES THE PROBLEM, The house has one of those "awesome" 70's aluminum siding jobs where they run flange J right across the window trim so that they didn't have to wrap the trim. Meaning I have no way of cutting the stops, and If i did there would be nothing left for me to nail to. SO HERES WHAT IM THINKING, padding out the existing jamb even with the face of the exterior stops, installing 3/4" quarter round onto the interior stops, undersizing the replacement window width by one inch, installing it from the outside against the quarter round caulking the exterior perimeter and then wrapping it. Anyone else have any thoughts? I haven't ordered the windows yet, I have been debating this in my head the past couple days. I have to do 30 like this

Vabuilder

you may want to check the width of a "single hung" unit. I know they are quite a bit thinner than a standard double hung. it my fit in the opening you have available. if it will work, price the job both ways and let the home owner decide which they want.

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Tom R

Personally, - - I would make all my adjustments on the inside only, - - caulk should be in addition to (and alongside) a rain and wind-block, - - not serving 'as' a rain and wind-block.

I would probably go ahead and let the windows extend in, - - and provide a back-band and rabbeted-casings combination to thicken the interior case-work (maybe to a total of 1 1/4" thickness) , - - you should actually be able to make it look richer and offer it as an (necessary) upcharge.

P.S. When you get it all done, - - you can then sell them on custom plantation shutters . . .

all vinyl

I would cut the aluminum siding back to remove flange install 5/4 X 3 and then caulk stop and install window then as normally rap window and caulk .I hope this helps :thumb up:

Patrick

Im screwed all around, My issue with making it up inside is that the stool is 3/4" above the sill so i would have to in all likelihood cut the stool back. In addition custom trim work is not an option as this is a rental. I cant use a single hung because the housing authority speced double hungs

If I cut back the aluminum nad install new outside trim how do I make sure that the aluminum is sealed to the trim? Its going to be difficult to cut the aluminum perfectly straight not to mention I gotta do this for 30 windows

The other issue is the inside stops are pretty much 1x4 jamb extensions which the casing is nailed over which means they would be a bitch to take out. And they are covered in lead paint which i was hoping to avoid by doing an outside install.

Tom R

If you want to do it from the outside, - - sounds like all-vinyl has you on the right track. And rather than cutting aluminum perfectly straight (I guess you're referring to the siding itself??), - - figure a way (rabbeting or whatever) to make your trim overlap your cut-lines . . .

An outside picture would help . . .

Patrick

Im going to try and take a pic for you guys, I need to get these windows ordered ASAP but ive been debating the install in my head for about a week. It seems all my normal avenues I usually use to make up for f'd up windows have been blocked.

Forry

Aluminum siding can be cut straight pretty easily with an angle grinder and a cutting wheel.

Tom R

Although I agree with you, - - and that's the way I would cut it either way myself, - - getting that straight of a line really shouldn't be an issue, - - because the trimwork should overlap it either way to allow room for movement . . .

Patrick

Wouldn't this create a major water issue with a clear area for water to get behind the siding since there would be no j?

Tom R

You would just need a standard drip-cap up top, - - and then just slide a narrow L-shaped flashing behind the siding (devised to drain back out at the bottom corners) before installing your casings . . .

Patrick

DING DING DING DING DING DING DING WE HAVE A WINNER. Sounds good I feel pretty good about that now

all vinyl

i agree grind blade on a circular saw works good if you put a level next to the window mark it and cut the line this will be the depth of the flange. I only have one issue with this when you get a spark it could cause a fire this is why i went to the other method of cutting the flange in the middle and then crow bar out it all depends with the j Chanel on how far out the window protrudes we/i make j out of coil and seal this to the window we put a cassing behind the siding and into the window if their Sheetrock pockets and then a j channel behind the siding and seal j Chanel acts as drip . This is the way i do it about 60 windows per week . good luck
with cuting and installing 5/4x3 you would caulk to the siding and cassing

Patrick

Sounds good guys thanks, I have had pretty good lucking cutting out for after the fact gable vents with a multi tooth carbide blade in my dewalt cordless with no sparking. The only problem is remembering to keep my mouth shut, all those little bits of aluminum in your mouth taste horrible.

Tom R

Actually, Pat, - - thinking about it more, - - maybe you can just cut the existing J-channels (cut the front and part of the side off) along the inside edges so they can stay right there and then serve as your L-channel, - - then your new (rabbetted) casings can overlap without you ever having to even cut the siding (except on top for your drip cap).

Don't know if that helps any, - - all depends on your exact situation . . .