Cedar shingles, advice please - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

swanee · 06-13-2009, 09:18 PM

I put an addition on my house a year and a half ago and am finally going to side it. I have 18" perfections that were in an attic for a year and they are dry to say the least. I am going to use an Olympic semi transparent oil and am wondering if I can stain them after they are installed, or if I should dip them prior to installing. Is there any appreciable difference? One more thing. I usually leave a 1/8 or so gap between shingles is that too much I like the way it looks. Thanks so much.

**loneframer** · 06-13-2009, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swanee

I put an addition on my house a year and a half ago and am finally going to side it. I have 18" perfections that were in an attic for a year and they are dry to say the least. I am going to use an Olympic semi transparent oil and am wondering if I can stain them after they are installed, or if I should dip them prior to installing. Is there any appreciable difference? One more thing. I usually leave a 1/8 or so gap between shingles is that too much I like the way it looks. Thanks so much.

If they've been baked in an attic, you may want to gap them 1/8 for 4" widths and under, slightly larger for wider shakes. They will expand in wet weather and you don't want them to bind on each other.

I would predip for even coverage myself.

Winchester · 06-13-2009, 09:34 PM

From my limited knowledge if you don't have both sides coated, they will cup and do nasty things when moisture gets in and can't escape from the coated side (which is the side with the exposure and sun...

swanee · 06-13-2009, 09:47 PM

That's what I was afraid of. My wife already thinks I obsess about everything now I am going to have to string clothes line across the yard and convince her how important it is.

**loneframer** · 06-13-2009, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swanee

That's what I was afraid of. My wife already thinks I obsess about everything now I am going to have to string clothes line across the yard and convince her how important it is.

Better hit the dollar store for a few thousand clothespins too.

Those folks are gonna think you have alot of socks.

Winchester · 06-13-2009, 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swanee

That's what I was afraid of. My wife already thinks I obsess about everything now I am going to have to string clothes line across the yard and convince her how important it is.

I've recently switched to: http://www.timberprocoatings.com/ for all my jobs.

They use natural oils. It's considered waterborne, and is also breathable so you can coat only one side.

I'm using it on 2 projects right now and gonna keep an eye on it to see how it stands up over time. Supposed to be 3-5 years depending on sun exposure before it needs another coat.

tomstruble · 06-14-2009, 08:41 AM

1 coat pre installation 1 coat after

rick0913 · 06-14-2009, 09:46 AM

In response Winchester's message concerning the new product that is said to be breathable & can be used to coat only one side of the shingles.I am in no way trying to imply that this is not a good product , however I have learned the hard way with other new products. If my name is going to be on a job I sleep better@ night when I stick with what I KNOW for sure works , in this case what I know works is a quality oil that is evenly covering every surface of every shingle.

tomstruble · 06-14-2009, 11:48 AM

how about dipping?anybody do this?in the ''old days'' they used to dip them a certain distance past the exposure line,ever hear of the process?

katoman · 06-14-2009, 08:13 PM

Anytime we are installing cedar shingles we always strap out the roof/wall for the shingles. We never install tight to the surface. This allows the shingle to "breath". Only way to guarantee the job will last.

On this note - recently saw a municipal building being re done with cedar shakes. They Blueskinned the roof and applied the shingles directly on top of that. Going to keep an eye on this job to see how it holds up.

Anytime we have done cedar shingles or shakes when an architect was involved, they always have spec. them to be installed on top of strapping. Anyone have an opinion on the bueskin application?

tomstruble · 06-14-2009, 08:39 PM

ive seen them applied directly to felt and last 100 years

oh no did i say felt?? L/f will not be far behind

**loneframer** · 06-14-2009, 08:40 PM

We used Homeslicker on the current project.

swanee · 06-14-2009, 08:55 PM

This clothes pin thing did not go to well today. Bought 100 clothes pins, one hundred feet of line, and two pulleys all for less than 15 dollars at Home Depot. I dip the shingle in the five gallon pail, brush of the excess and hang it, two seconds later it slips right out and down on the ground. Two clothes pins do better until there was some weight on the line and shingles 25 feet away would fall off as the clothes line bounced when reeling it. I walked away and did some window trim. What's your favorite thing to do on a Sunday?

naptown CR · 06-14-2009, 08:58 PM

Went boating

katoman · 06-14-2009, 09:35 PM

So the Homeslicker allows for air behind the shingles. That works. The shingles on felt lasting 100 yrs is probably on roof boards so it gets air from the attic. Seen that, but don't beleive this will work on top of ply.

tomstruble · 06-14-2009, 09:49 PM

i was speaking more of sidewall shingles

katoman · 06-14-2009, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomstruble

i was speaking more of sidewall shingles

Thanks for the input, I suppose the wall shingles don't get the snow, etc. sitting on them, so probably ok to go right on the wall.

MattK · 06-15-2009, 08:33 PM

The best way i dip mass amounts of shingles is to buy some cheap gutter and pitch it back into a 5 gallon bucket. If you cycle through and dont let them sit all day the sealant will not solidify in the base of the gutter.
This is a two man job by the way. Much easier with help