Marsh

I was wondering if most of you do a full tear out with casements, awnings ect... It seems to be a pain to try and put a replacement window in opening. The stops and parts you think will come out sometimes are mulled and glued. What are your thoughts on replacing windows in casement openings and the best way to do job. Last one we did we ended up dulling are chisles.

Thanks
Marsh

Patrick

we do it all the time. We take apart the old windows, cut out the mulls, and put in whatever the customer wants.

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

Marsh

when you say you do it all the time, do you mean full tear, or are you just chiseling it till it fits. It seems ti me it may just be easier to do full tears on these window. I could be wrong. They are all different, rather guess maybe just full tear. But then why use a replacement????

Patrick

We use replacements more often than not. Not sure what you mean by "chisel till it fits" doesn't sound like a very professional way to install windows... most existing casement windows can be disassembled right down to the bare frame, and then we cut out the mull posts and install a large replacement window or multiple mulled replacement windows. No chisels involved.

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

Marsh

I find that alot of casement windows have stops that are not able to be removed without removing entire frame or chiseling it out flush with frame. There are some that your are able to remove stop near screen track. My question i need help with is when you do run into these type windows is there a easier installation or is it just something i should plan to do a full tear. I can't see every casment you run into being able to neatly take apart, some stops go clear through window frame that i've seen. At that point how do you perfer to install???

Patrick

In those cases we leave the interior stops and we use a jamb saw or a fein multi master tool to cut the exterior stops off, install the window, and either install new wood stops, or cap with aluminum. similar to how we replace the double hung 60's style tilt in andersens with the fancy locking handles in the sash.

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

Marsh

The casements we removed today were a triple unit with a fixed in center and 2 casement. Now on the botom and top was a 1" wide stepped stop that was through the frame of window. On the sides were 3/4" stops that were throught the window. They do not pop off the need to be cut or chisled flush. Have you ran into these installs?? Looking for the easiest , cleanest install if you have any tips!! Also jambs were beveld slightly.

Marsh

Thanks for advice I'll have to look into those tools never heard or used.
Thanks again!

Patrick

Id love to see pics so I could tell you exactly. If its what I am thinking of, sometimes we order a smaller window and install inside the stops, and add another stop.

Also, a lot of times rather than a chisel or saw, if you score the stop a few times with a utility blade, you can knock them out with a hammer.

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

Marsh

Last but least! I would think the tools you are talking about are similar to a roto zip or grinder??? Or do they do something different??? Also the way you are suggesting install would then leave all stops intact, which is what were trying to achieve. Now what do you do with the old cranks out holes left behind??
Thanks again for the help

Marsh

I will snap a pic and try and post it tommorow. It sounds like you could really be a help. The casement always tend to be a pain for us?? And im sure there are better ways.

Patrick

Yes they are similar. I have several "home made tools" which are concoctions from angle grinders and old saws.

We usually install a 3/4" cove mold stop on the inside of the windows. this will cover the mark from the old hardware and the mark from where the old mulls used to sit on top of the window stool. We usually all do the first window together to figure out how we are going to do it, and then we split up and start going though the house. very fast

Wanna know how i learned a lot of this??? when i first started out, I would go to the local used building materials store or the town dumps and buy or take old casement windows that people ripped out of their houses and i would bring them back to my garage and take them apart and experiment on them

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

easy sider

We always try to collapse the frame after removing the glass. We remove the frame with an extractor. There are a few extractors to choose from. This works on steel frames in masonry or wood. The only reason we would not remove the steel frame is that some steel frames are made really wide. This is where a flush fin window works very nice to cover the steel frame. We can remove a steel frame sometimes faster than an aluminum frame. Twenty minutes tops for a hard one. No chisels required.

vinylguy

we usually install inside the stops!