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Old 06-04-2009, 08:04 PM   #1
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Brake skills Q:

Is there a good, neat way to bend a very long piece (6-8 feet) of aluminium coil stock to 180 degrees? Essentially, folding it back on top of itself. Bending a 90 and folding it the rest of the way, foot by foot, with a hand seamer looks awful. Is there a good way to do this in the field?

Second question, I have a worn out brake that's from the 60's, but it still does pretty good. Unfortunately, the shortest bend I can get is about 1/2-5/8". Is there a trick, attachment, or different brake that permits a guy to bend a 1/4 or 3/8" lip?

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Old 06-04-2009, 08:11 PM   #2
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I've got the same kind of brake. An antique. I have never been able to do that bend on it, so I simply don't. The new brakes will do this bend, but as I usually only need it for window capping, can't justify the expense of a new brake.
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:14 PM   #3
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I have a Tapco Pro II, it will allow me to "Hem" or double back coil stock 180 degrees. Painted coil gets better results, but PVC coated works decent too. If adjusted properly, I can get a 3/8 bend with a lighter guage metal, but 1/2" is best I can do with premium coil. I always hem the bottom bend on fascia wraps. I've even made a receiver for fascia metal if there is no drip edge to tuck behind.
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:19 PM   #4
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I have a Tapco Pro II, it will allow me to "Hem" or double back coil stock 180 degrees. Painted coil gets better results, but PVC coated works decent too. If adjusted properly, I can get a 3/8 bend with a lighter guage metal, but 1/2" is best I can do with premium coil. I always hem the bottom bend on fascia wraps. I've even made a receiver for fascia metal if there is no drip edge to tuck behind.
I will second that. Are the other guys using the Windy brake with the lock handle on the right end?
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:25 PM   #5
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I will second that. Are the other guys using the Windy brake with the lock handle on the right end?
My dad handed me down a Port-O-Brake that he bought in the late 70s or early 80s with the side lock mechanism. It's nice for door and window pans and at 8' long, it's easier to handle than the 10' Tapco. I think I may have fractured my hand back in the 80s trying to get a good lock on it though.
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:30 PM   #6
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I think I call the brake you guys are talking about the "slapstick".
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:47 PM   #7
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My dad handed me down a Port-O-Brake that he bought in the late 70s or early 80s with the side lock mechanism. It's nice for door and window pans and at 8' long, it's easier to handle than the 10' Tapco. I think I may have fractured my hand back in the 80s trying to get a good lock on it though.
That's the one I am talking about being called a "windy" Tapco makes them now. I had an old Boss who was so cheap his a**hole squeaked when he walked. He decided to finally break down, no pun intented, and buy a brake. He comes back with this POS all proud of himself. I asked him what that cr*p is. He said it was the new company brake. I asked him if he was the one who would be using it. Answer no. Then aske how much more a Pro II cost which was about $200.00. Then asked him why it was called a Windy. Didn't know. Because it BLOWS and will cost him more in labor in a year than the PRO II . We had a new PRO II the next day
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:52 PM   #8
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That's the one I am talking about being called a "windy" Tapco makes them now. I had an old Boss who was so cheap his a**hole squeaked when he walked. He decided to finally break down, no pun intented, and buy a brake. He comes back with this POS all proud of himself. I asked him what that cr*p is. He said it was the new company brake. I asked him if he was the one who would be using it. Answer no. Then aske how much more a Pro II cost which was about $200.00. Then asked him why it was called a Windy. Didn't know. Because it BLOWS and will cost him more in labor in a year than the PRO II . We had a new PRO II the next day
I'm glad I bought mine when I did. $950 in 1997, last time I priced it, $1,350 from the same supplier.
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:03 PM   #9
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I'm on my 5th in 10 years. None of have gotten stolen just worn out. I can normally sell them for a little less than half price.

Mines the worst it's ever been right now. I just don't use it as much so I don't care.

I can get them new for around 11-1200.
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:09 PM   #10
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I'm on my 5th in 10 years. None of have gotten stolen just worn out. I can normally sell them for a little less than half price.

Mines the worst it's ever been right now. I just don't use it as much so I don't care.

I can get them new for around 11-1200.
Usually the cams wear out and need to be replaced along with the hinge. Does anyone cut with a utility knife or do you have the slitter.
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:11 PM   #11
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I buy the rebuild kits and do that normally a couple times before I trade it in for a new one. I've actually got 3 of them right now that are all junkyard dogs.

The shafts that the pins go in that hold the cams in place get worn out.

I used to bend metal 40 hours a week while my guys hung it all. So they've all paid for themselves over and over.
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:20 PM   #12
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I buy the rebuild kits and do that normally a couple times before I trade it in for a new one. I've actually got 3 of them right now that are all junkyard dogs.

The shafts that the pins go in that hold the cams in place get worn out.

I used to bend metal 40 hours a week while my guys hung it all. So they've all paid for themselves over and over.
If I ever did that much metal bending I would be looking for somethng with a key start or plugged in
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:23 PM   #13
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Yes, it's the handle on the end. Like I said only use it for capping. If I was in the siding business I would definitely opt for one of the new brakes. I bought mine in '76 and totaly rebuilt it only once. It still looks and works like new. And I never leave it out in the elements, it's mounted in my trailer.
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:23 PM   #14
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Usually the cams wear out and need to be replaced along with the hinge. Does anyone cut with a utility knife or do you have the slitter.
Utility knife, but I don't over-run the end of the stock unless it's set at the end of the brake.
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:24 PM   #15
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Utility knife, but I don't over-run the end of the stock unless it's set at the end of the brake.
Good boy you get biscuit
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:27 PM   #16
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If I ever did that much metal bending I would be looking for somethng with a key start or plugged in



I prefer to hang out on the ground and take phone calls. I let my guys move the ladders around and give me measurements.

I'm lighting fast and accurate so it's pretty easy for me to stay way ahead with no effort. I don't spend much time onsite anymore. If I do it's normally doing the difficult stuff that I can't really sub out.
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:28 PM   #17
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I do it that way also. Think I'll go get a MilkBone as a reward
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:31 PM   #18
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I prefer to hang out on the ground and take phone calls. I let my guys move the ladders around and give me measurements.

I'm lighting fast and accurate so it's pretty easy for me to stay way ahead with no effort.
Regardless of the task at hand, I always prefer to be the cutman. I love the challenge of getting ahead and staying ahead of the installers. It makes the day fly by. Siding, framing, trimboards..........I like to call it "Ground Control"
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Old 06-04-2009, 10:12 PM   #19
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Being the cutman is fun and fast paced. It does make the time fly by.

I use the newest Tapco, whatever it is with the sidewinder and cut off tool. The cut off tool is money well spent. I would recommend it to anyone. I would like to find a nice 4-5 ft. brake for easier transportation on smaller stuff.

I try not to wrap windows because it's almost worthless...same with coil fascias. They just don't hold up. Some guys put that stupid half diamond in the middle and screw up the whole house. Boy that bugs me. They think they are so handy and smart, when all they do is ruin the fascias.

I use mine mainly for corner boxes, hem locks, garage doors, and some simple flashings.

The Tapco products are very nice, but I really think there is probably something better out there. Some of the engineering on the brake and saw table could have been better thought out.

To the OP, The Tapco I know for sure will hold 1/4" tightly enough to bend.

I also agree the painted coil is a little better with the hems because the PVC coating sometimes breaks.
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Old 06-04-2009, 10:19 PM   #20
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Is there a trick, attachment, or different brake that permits a guy to bend a 1/4 or 3/8" lip?
I have a venerable (though not quite THAT venerable) Tapco that I can get a 3/8" bend with on a good day. If I can get a bend on it at all, I can crunch it down to a 180° without much trouble unless it's more than an inch or two deep.

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Utility knife, but I don't over-run the end of the stock unless it's set at the end of the brake.
Me too, in principle. But let's see a close-up macro shot of the hinge leaves (or whatever you call 'em) about 2-3' in from the end, Mr. Pictureman.
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