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#1 |
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still learnin'
Trade: General Contracting
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Holmes County, Ohio
Posts: 242
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Board And Batten Siding
hey guys,
My wife and I are in the initial planning stages of building a home for ourselves, and we have decided that we really like the look of board and batten siding. We will use cultured stone (first three feet), then board and batten siding. In the gables we will use vinyl shakes. I have some questions for you professionals. 1. what species of wood should I use for the boards and battens? I will be painting them, not staining them. (rough sawn yellow pine? cedar?) I want something that will hold up. 2. what are some common dimensions? (12" board?, 3" battens?) 3. what do you guys charge/sq for vinyl shakes, installed? thanks guys! |
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#2 |
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Pro
Trade: Siding, Windows, Seamless Gutters, Metal Roofing
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,761
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Re: Board And Batten Siding
Take a look at vinyl board and batten. The stuff loooks NICE
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Originally Posted by Celtic Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens. |
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#3 |
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still learnin'
Trade: General Contracting
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Holmes County, Ohio
Posts: 242
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Re: Board And Batten Siding |
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#4 |
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Pro
Trade: General, Electrical, and Plumbing Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, OR & Eatonville, WA
Posts: 1,264
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Re: Board And Batten Siding
Where I am in the NW cedar is used. As for the most common sizes, 3" battens and 10" boards.
Now for the big but, if you are going to paint them do not use cedar. You will have problems with bleed through of the natural oils in cedar no matter how much primer or sealer you use. Now for the solution, have you thought of using a solid color stain. You never want to paint cedar and hide the beauty of the wood, and if you go to the expense of cedar you should use a solid stain but a normal stain would be better. How tall is your B & B siding going to be? And are there any tall gable walls? Because if you are set on paint, you should just use a solid panel product like LP Smartside. You can get it in up to 4' x 10' sheets ungrooved and it is preprimed. Then just put some battens on at 12" centers so it will hide the seams. |
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#5 | |
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Pro
Trade: Remodeling
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Northwest Connecticut
Posts: 2,039
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Re: Board And Batten SidingQuote:
1.You won't like painting the rough stuff. 2.Generally it will depend on the look you want. Usually here it's 8" board and 2" batten 3.Cheaper than the 200 gallons of paint you'll put on the rough stuff every five years.
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#6 |
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still learnin'
Trade: General Contracting
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Holmes County, Ohio
Posts: 242
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Re: Board And Batten Siding
thanks for the replies, fellows.
the walls will be 9'. gables will be getting shakes, so everything will be 9' where I use B&B. cedar...sure would look great with a dark stain. I see your point on that. spendy though. also oldfrt, good point about going through mass-quantities of paint hitting the rough stuff. I guess it comes down to vinyl or cedar. I would need to see a house with both, but around here, its all double 4! |
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#7 |
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President
Trade: Installing windows, siding, roofing, doors, patio rooms, gutters and shutters.
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Central Maine
Posts: 292
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Re: Board And Batten Siding
I've used a lot of vinyl shakes and vinyl bat & board and it looks great and holds up. I use Mastic siding most of the time.
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#8 |
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Pro
Trade: Carpentry Contractor
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: California
Posts: 1,272
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Re: Board And Batten Siding
In my area, they would now use T1-11 siding with out grooves and then add the battens. Sheets come in 4x9.
T1-11 used to be available in redwood and cedar, but I don't think that it is anymore. In our area it is rough sawn douglas fir plywood. Mark |
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#9 |
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still learnin'
Trade: General Contracting
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Holmes County, Ohio
Posts: 242
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Re: Board And Batten Siding
If I do decide to go with 1x10 and 1x3 cedar, what is the method for installation? I would imagine it requires full sheeting on exterior, vapor barrier, furring strips??, then boards nailed on, then battens nailed on overtop (not nailed to the boards).
is this thinking correct? what about weather-proofing? caulk all the seams?
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