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04-29-2009, 07:49 PM
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#21
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Member
Trade:
Union Carpenter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jumbo
I've never used a "fascia splice". Is this something you fabricate yourself or purchase? Wonder how the finished look might appear, any pic's?
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no we purchased them they were speced for the job, i havent used them before either but the last 2 jobs i was on they called for them, the finished product looked good it was consistent around the whole building and it looked uniform. you just slip the splice behind the 2 pieces and leave a 1/4 gap and the splice is the same color so you cant really notice it too much
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04-29-2009, 08:10 PM
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#22
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Pro
Trade:
siding windows soffit fascia
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Central MO
Posts: 388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boycer88
no we purchased them they were speced for the job, i havent used them before either but the last 2 jobs i was on they called for them, the finished product looked good it was consistent around the whole building and it looked uniform. you just slip the splice behind the 2 pieces and leave a 1/4 gap and the splice is the same color so you cant really notice it too much
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Still, no matter what you do unless the fascia is installed and fastened to avoid canning it will can, fascia splices? or none. I don't get the fascia splices, is this April fools still?
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04-29-2009, 08:11 PM
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#23
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Pro
Trade:
Exterior Finishing
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanekw1
I always use screws through the bottom of the fascia and tuck it into the roof edge. Even when I put it on in the middle of winter, it does not get wavy. 3 screws per length is plenty around here, (35 km/hr wind is a hurricane to me  )
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Besides that horrific corner in your picture, that's exactly what I was saying before- screw the bottom (not too tight, snug if you will) and no rippling or warping. Any time you fasten thin metal that is exposed it can't do what it wants to do, expand and contract. Small areas like the underside lip won't warp like the 6" or 8" face.
As for a splice i just overlap by 3-6" and screw through the bottom through both pieces. As Shane said, 3 screws per 10' fascia is fine (here anyway). On gables overlap the top piece so water won't run into the bottom piece.
Ps. Suppliers sell paint to match the aluminum stock- PAINT YOUR FASTENERS.
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04-29-2009, 08:42 PM
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#24
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Trailer park boy
Trade:
Remodeling
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Castlegar, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rojigga
Ps. Suppliers sell paint to match the aluminum stock- PAINT YOUR FASTENERS.
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I still have nightmares of painting screw heads for a large project I did with my first employer. Big styrofoam pincushions everywhere filled with screws.
__________________
"Industry without art is brutality"
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04-30-2009, 12:19 PM
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#25
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Pro
Trade:
Exterior Finishing
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanekw1
Big styrofoam pincushions everywhere filled with screws.
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Styrofoam is better than doing it with cardboard! Had to do that too many times!
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04-30-2009, 07:54 PM
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#26
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Pro
Trade:
carpenter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Kirkfield,Ontario, Canada
Posts: 492
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Shane - looking at your pics and wondering if the large underbend on the facia is standard in BC or did you do that just for that job? I usually only bend 1 1/4"
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04-30-2009, 11:40 PM
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#27
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Trailer park boy
Trade:
Remodeling
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Castlegar, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katoman
Shane - looking at your pics and wondering if the large underbend on the facia is standard in BC or did you do that just for that job? I usually only bend 1 1/4"
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It's pre bent stuff  from Kaycan, fits around a 2x. I hate the crap but until I can get a brake, it's gotta do.
__________________
"Industry without art is brutality"
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05-01-2009, 01:57 PM
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#28
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Registered User
Trade:
Remodeling
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Port Arthur, Tx
Posts: 5
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Anyone ever try hemming the edge that goes under the eave tin? It seems to help alot.
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05-01-2009, 09:27 PM
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#29
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Pro
Trade:
carpenter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Kirkfield,Ontario, Canada
Posts: 492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterman1971
Anyone ever try hemming the edge that goes under the eave tin? It seems to help alot.
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Sometimes, yes, and sometimes have to get the skilsaw out to starighten wavey facia. Sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do to get a decent finished job, right?
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05-01-2009, 10:00 PM
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#30
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Capra aegagrus
Trade:
Remodeler
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katoman
Sometimes, yes, and sometimes have to get the skilsaw out to starighten wavey facia.
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I have GOT to hear this! How does one straighten out warped sheet metal with a circular saw?
Pics would be a major bonus.
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05-01-2009, 10:20 PM
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#31
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---
Trade:
residential framing/general carpentry
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 3,598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinstaafl
I have GOT to hear this! How does one straighten out warped sheet metal with a circular saw?
Pics would be a major bonus. 
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I'm thinking he's straightening the sub-fascia before sheet metal.
__________________
" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
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05-01-2009, 10:29 PM
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#32
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Capra aegagrus
Trade:
Remodeler
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loneframer
I'm thinking he's straightening the sub-fascia before sheet metal. 
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Don't bust my bubble.
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05-01-2009, 10:33 PM
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#33
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---
Trade:
residential framing/general carpentry
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 3,598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinstaafl
Don't bust my bubble. 
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Just looking at it from a framers angle.  I had the dual saw image myself at first.
__________________
" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
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05-01-2009, 10:41 PM
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#34
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Registered User
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: May 2009
Location: NEPA
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Csavage1
We also have a brake buddy from Tapco that will put a groove in the face of the coil about 1 or so wide
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Sometimes ya just cant win. Did a double groove and it oil canned on me. I only had that happen twice and both houses the fascia had a decent curve to it (not cupped). So maybe that's part of the his problem too.
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05-02-2009, 11:33 AM
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#35
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling/building
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Live In Illinois.
Posts: 118
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I tried zip screws for fascia but found out if a person isn't really careful they will still dimple the return. Plus face screws are unforgiving and allow for no expansion. On top of that a screw looks commercial.
I put a slight upward bend on the final 3/4 inch of the return. That way you can adjust your facia for crooked sub facia boards and your return will still be tight against the soffit.
Put a 1/2 reverse hem on the top of the facia that goes under the drip edge and hem the raw end of the return.
Predrill or punch 1/8 inch holes in the return and use nails in the soffit valleys. Predrill or punch a hole in the laps and face nail. I usually put a nail in the top of the fascia in the center of the piece under the drip edge.
I never had a ripple doing it this way and never lost a piece of fascia in the wind.
Also, the quality of the coil and the condition of your brake makes a difference.
I don't think it's as much about the metal expanding and contracting as it is the house moving.
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05-02-2009, 03:29 PM
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#36
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Pro
Trade:
Exterior Finishing
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 170
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Ever see a old aluminum fascia job in which it was face nailed? They stand out really bad because they rust and turn red and mark the face with the red water stain streaks.
Ps. Shane... Kaycan sucks! Gentec is better in this here parts.
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05-02-2009, 04:18 PM
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#37
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Pro
Trade:
siding
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 1,861
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better off with a 1/2'' return on the bottom of your fascia
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05-02-2009, 09:36 PM
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#38
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Pro
Trade:
carpenter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Kirkfield,Ontario, Canada
Posts: 492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinstaafl
I have GOT to hear this! How does one straighten out warped sheet metal with a circular saw?
Pics would be a major bonus. 
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C'mon, you don't have a bent steel blade for your saw? Straightens the bent facia great.
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05-02-2009, 10:41 PM
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#39
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Capra aegagrus
Trade:
Remodeler
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katoman
C'mon, you don't have a bent steel blade for your saw? Straightens the bent facia great.
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