Remove Lally Column?

zslavin

Existing there are 3 - 2x10 girders across the 26'wide foundation which are attached into the foundation walls at each end and supported across the basement by 3 lally columns approximately 6' apart.

I want to remove the one lally column that is the first column from the foundation. This would create a span of 12' from the foundation to the "center" column (see 3 photos attached).

I've hung 2 - 12' 91/2" LVLs sandwiching the existing 2x10s.

To support the ends of the LVLs, I've placed 5-king studs (2x4) on each end, supporting the "5" girders (2-LVLs and 3-2x10s), one next to the foundation wall and one next to the "center" lally so the span between the new king studs is 11' 4".

The kings studs are bolted through using 1/2" x 10" carraige bolts in the top and bottom 3rd of the studs.

The LVLs are bolted 16" O.C. staggered top/bottom through all 5 girders also using the 1/2" x 10" carraige bolts.

I'd like to find out the maximum loads the original was verses the remodeled maximum load as a comparison so:

What is the maximum load of the original design of 3-2x10 spanning 6'?

What is the maximum load of the 2 new LVLs (with the 2x10s sandwiched) spanning 11' 4"?

Do the maximum load of the new LVLs meet or exceed the maximum load of the original design?

Can I now remove the lally column?

Attached Images

   

concretemasonry

Just hope the footings under the lally column with the jacks close to it is thick enough and the soil is good enough. I assume the new jacks are on the footing.

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Dick

Engineer, designer and consultant recently active domestically and internationally on construction and design in about 35 countries.

KentWhitten

I'm sorry if this may sound offensive, but this is not a structural engineering forum. No one should be giving their opinion or facts about anything structural with either this or anything that could possibly kill someone.

Obviously, someone gave you an inkling about the LVL's, why not ask that person?

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concretemasonry

It was not a structural engineer comment!!

It was based on the construction problems I have seen from failures and from problems with people with real life problems or trying sell a home with poor construction practices.

A good framer would be concerned with what he was setting his framing on.

The poster was adding about 30-50% to the load on the footing (if he actually in on the footing. You cannot rely on a slab for strength and I was just telling him to make sure he was on an adequate footing.

The poster had done all the "engineering" by determining what he thought was adequate. It seemed adequate. He just did not know what the loads really were and was asking what they were. You might be able guess reasonably well what the loads on the original were. I suggested that he make sure he was on a solid foundation. - That does not sound like engineering, but common sense based on some of the framing mistakes I have seen over 35 years. Near is not always close enough.

You only do it once, so make sure you do it right.

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Dick

Engineer, designer and consultant recently active domestically and internationally on construction and design in about 35 countries.

Bob Kovacs

I find it laughable that you're asking this question after you did all the work- what if you find out that it won't work? You kinda wasted some money and time then, didn't you?

Any answer you get here is worth the cyberspace it's written in- call a structural engineer.

Kingfisher

Didn't like the answers we gave you at the DIY site

Some of use pros try to help over there also

thom

You're going about this backwards and it just won't work.

First, determine the imposed load on the girder. This will be in a plf (per lineal foot) including all the live loads, dead loads, and point loads imposed on it. We can't do this for you, we don't have the original plans nor access to the house.

After you have done the above, you can use the manufacturers software for the microlams to determine what would be adequate.

There is NO way to engineer the combined loading of engineered plus dimension lumber. NO WAY. They work and function differently. You either need to use one or the other. Using both, just ignore the capacity of one or the other.

It's not what you want to hear, it is the correct answer. I do the engineering on my own houses (I design) all the time. I use both engineered lumber and dimension lumber. On some jobs I've sistered engineered lumber alongside dimension lumber (like what you are doing). When doing the loading calcs I ignore the dimension lumber. That's life.

One more thing, the response from concretemasonry is right on. That thickened concrete or pier must be properly sized. If you can't determine what's there (from original plans) AND insure its adequacy, yo must remove it and properly size and replace it.

nywoodwizard

First and foremost just by asking the question means you have doubts of what you have done, which should let you know there is a biggggg difference in guessing something may work as opposed to knowing. Think of a house as a tree if you loosen up the trunk whats going to happen ?

You don't have to be an engineer to know that transferring that load to a slab or an uncertain footing is asking for trouble, the slab was made to stand on not rest a home on. I'm certainly no engineer but i would think by having space between the LVL's cancels out there effectiveness. It can be done ,but not like that.

LVL's are not miracle lumber that can support anything,anytime,anyway, however you see fit,which is what most DYI's/inexperienced carpenters/handyman are mislead to believe as yourself ( no offense). There are mathematical equations involved in determining, Size, load capacity, and spans for there use in projects like yours ,ensuring above all, Safety. Engineers play an important role in home building/construction for a reason.

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