Help! The Numbers Don't Add Up

beardenremodel

Any help would be greatly appreciated. These are my dimensions and I can't figure out how to make it come out right to code. I need head room on the landing at 80". Max 7 3/4" rise and 11 1/4 run. I want to add a landing somewhere to turn the stairs and I want it at least 36" wide. Help!!!

Attached Thumbnails

 

wallmaxx

Is this you? http://www.beardenhomes.net/index.html ?

From the limited info in your drawing, I can't provide you a workable solution. When you are considering stairs, you need FFE to FFE. This includes ALL flooring items like tile or hardwood thicknesses, joist types/sizes, subflooring, carpet, hardwood top step, light weight concrete after pour, etc.

I am a bit confused. 104 1/2" is 1/8" less than a typical US 9' stud and 7 3/8" taller than a typical 8' wall (1 1/2" + 92 5/8" + 1 1/2" + 1 1/2")

Also I have no idea from which direction you will be entering / exiting the stairs. At the top and bottom you need the same length as width if you are entering perpendicular to the stringers. i.e. 36" along the ground then stringer can start.

Rework the dimensions and add a plan view and maybe I can help you out.

RizzoMaryland

Thats a sharp program you used to draw that. What is it?

__________________
"An idea is salvation by imagination"
Frank LLoyd Wright

neolitic

Max is right, need ff - ff and a plan view!

__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

wallmaxx

Rizzo

I laughed typing that. The Jerky Boyz skit where Frank Rizzo is spelling his name sarcastically over the phone to some dim whit R - I - Z - Z - O
Very cool name.

I use autocad.

neolitic

HEY!
CHIEF!
Should I bring my F-in TOOLS?

__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

A W Smith

is that sheet from a autocad template? or did you draw and 'save as" for those text blocks on the sheet?

__________________
Al Smith
http://www.awsmith.com

jmic

I agree the drawing looks sharp although I don't understand why anyone would build a set of stairs using your method. Why would you show the first tread flush with the finish floor ? Am I missing something here ?

__________________
___"Remember You Never Get A Second Chance To Make A First Impression"______________________
Joe

localtradesman

I have built stairs both ways!! Does it really matter??? I need to know!! A little planning and it will work, won't it? Tell us master!!! Of course a post or two won't hurt, eahhhh!! No s...t!

L. B. Condulet

I though so. I just started with Autocad and find the learning curve pretty steep.

L. B. Condulet

I'm new to Autocad, but that sheet with the blocks is a template.

wallmaxx

Template? Man that would be cool.

Actually I draw each section from scratch...I do it to mentally review each step of the process. Kinda frame it on the computer first.

As for flush to flooring. When the project has real hardwood on the main floor and carpet on the second floor and the treads, for example, I do the math from the top of the hardwood, but then I add that thickness to the bottom of the stringer (3/4" to 1 1/2").

Some hardwood stairs get only temporary treads and the stringers are cut to accommodate the thinner treads. I only perform the structure. For finished work...I've seen some great work done by Joe Fusco

jmic

If the run was a concern you could save a tread by just stepping down to the first step gaining 11" at the bottom. Maybe it's more of a regional thing. I just don't see them done like that around here.

__________________
___"Remember You Never Get A Second Chance To Make A First Impression"______________________
Joe

neolitic

I would just use a riser and a nosing to finish the top.
Where the H is the OP?

__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

wallmaxx

Okay, I get it. You're talking about why I have the landing with the tread inset into it?

Some times the builder likes nosing on EVERYTHING...including the platform. This accomplishes that. Also, the stringer becomes integrated into the platform...it gets pretty solid. On 2x8 platforms, I'd have to attach a 2x12 or some 1" plywood for the stringer to nail to if I hung them one riser down.

Also, if I maintain the 3' platform, I don't gain a tread space at the bottom, by dropping the stringer.

The current platform is 2'1" plus the first tread = 3'. I'd have to increase the platform to 3' to drop the stringer...the bottom of the stringer would remain in the same place.

I make them both ways...they're fun either way.......LOTSA GLUE and screws.

jmic

It seems if the finish flooring of choice was to be tile that it might be a problem area ending your floor. Any finished floor for that matter. I think the better way of doing it would be to build your platform out to the desired measurement and then use nosing at the top. But either way they both get you up and down.

__________________
___"Remember You Never Get A Second Chance To Make A First Impression"______________________
Joe

BattleRidge

I don't think you can do it in this situation, just from the information shown. Maybe with a plan veiw and another landing?