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Lil' pergola I built

5K views 32 replies 11 participants last post by  neolitic 
#1 ·
Just finished this up today - nothing like pouring down rain all day to make you work slow...

I shaped and stained everything in my shop first so all I had to do on site was cut beam ends and assemble it.

Clear Cedar stained with Cabot Clear Solution: Cedar color. It actually tied in nicely to the TT Earthwoods Teak deck under it, I was happy with the colors, HOs were super happy with the finished product.

Hope y'all recovered from New Year's - here's hoping '08 is profitable for everyone!

Mac









 
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#5 ·
Really nice, dude!:thumbsup: I so wish that I could get good cedar here.

Just a little FYI. Since Cabot sold their soul to the big box stores, they have cheapened their formula. It's really a shame. They used to make very good products. Just some food for thought.
 
#6 ·
Really nice, dude!:thumbsup: I so wish that I could get good cedar here.
Just a little FYI. Since Cabot sold their soul to the big box stores, they have cheapened their formula. It's really a shame. They used to make very good products. Just some food for thought.
Check the numbers on the cans.
I think that they are doing the same thing as other coatings companies,
They make one line for the Boxes, one line for the pro-stores.
That said, a whore is a whore. :whistling
 
#7 ·
I am a huge cabot fan, from what I understand, the there really isnt any difference in the solid color deck stain oil or acrylic, I don't know if they carry pro vt, I always use pro vt acrylic solid from a mab paint store, but I know the box store color coding is not the same as from a paint store
 
#8 ·
Don't know about Cabot specifically, but I do know that Glidden, Dutch Boy, and others do have separate "B" lines for Box stores.
Completely different formula etc.
They just sell their name, basically.
 
#9 ·
You guys are right. The problem we have here in New England is that they have passed weenie greenie VOC regulations that have forced all of the companies to make separate formulas that don't work as good. I forget that it's not a nationwide thing. Just wait, though.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Right on guys! Thanks, I'm glad you like it. I had fun working up the various pieces. That's one thing that I really enjoy about my work, shaping wood. I mean, yeah, there's a certain kind of fun hurking 6x6 posts around the jobsite but I like shaping wood better!

Ya'll got me to thinking, VOC content, dif. numbers on stain cans, quality of stain, etc. I did some research and this is what I found out -

Cabot's Clear Solution comes in multiple VOC content amounts. For those who don't know there were stains in various potencies (like me 10 minutes ago!), the higher the VOC, the more potent the stain, the better the stain "takes," the longer it lasts...

#3000 Series has VOC of max. 4.6 lb/gal
#9100 Series has VOC of max. 2.9 lb/gal
#9200 Series has VOC of max. 2.09 lb/gal

I'm fairly certain that the cans I have are #3000 series but I'll have to double check. I wouldn't use this stain on a decking surface though...I like Finley's idea with the Penofin - wash and restain yearly - no stripping (let's save that for the clubs!)



I tried to hide as many fasteners on this project as I could - top purlins/rafters are fastened from below. Predrill and screw up from inside of outer beam - screw holes are now "sandwiched" between double beams. I'd thought of timberlocks down from top but wanted to avoid having holes to collect water and hasten rot. This project was decorative, not structural, so I wasn't worried about needing the beefier screws. I worked the beams in a similar manner - inside beam is attached to 4x4s with ledgerlocks run in through the outside of 4x4. Ledgerlock heads are then covered when outer beam is installed. Outer beam has no real weight on it so a couple of 3" screws on each side keep it in place.

When all was said and done, the only visible screws are the 4 per side on the lattice panels.

Very nice Mac, I like the scroll pattern on those rafter ends.

I'm curious, what does clear cedar cost there? I pay 1.55 per lf for std. & btr. 2x6 here, but cannot find anyone who stocks clear cedar here anymore. Is clear cedar readily available there?
4x4 c. cedar is running $4.50/lf - I can get 8s, 10s, and 12s easily. Longer stock is special order.
2x8 c. cedar is the same - $4.50/lf - I can get everything up to 16s easily. 20s are hit or miss for in stock, available as spec. order.
I'd have to dig up an invoice for the 2x6 c. ced. prices...

Mac
 
#16 · (Edited)
What a coinkidink! Check it. And listen to Ken, he is an expert.

http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?p=347955#post347955


Semi transparent tinted, oil based, penetrating sealer. The only commercially available product remotely resembling something halfway decent is TWP. Cabot's, Sikkens SRD, all the big players have gone way downhill due to tightening VOC requirements.

JM, it's highly recommended to not use two coats of Cabot's semi solid stain. It will form a flimsy film that lifts very easily. It is made as a one coat product. I had a horror story with the product and that is straight from the horse's mouth at Cabot's. The can directions also say it. But we are pros, who reads cans? ;)
 
#17 ·
Very nice Mac, I like the scroll pattern on those rafter ends.

I'm curious, what does clear cedar cost there? I pay 1.55 per lf for std. & btr. 2x6 here, but cannot find anyone who stocks clear cedar here anymore. Is clear cedar readily available there?
 
#21 ·
You are correct Mac, almost all cedar here is from Canada. Only HD uses USA milled cedar around here, Mary's River stock which imo is the worst cedar. It's so wet it feels as heavy as TP & shrinks really bad. I dubbed it "prune wood" cause it shivels up like one.

Your current price on 2x8's is what I was quoted on for 2x6's 2 years ago. Must be nice to have clear readily available, we would have to special order it here & may have to wait 2 months to get it. The benefits of living in the midde of cedar country I suppose.
 
#28 ·
So Mac, have you notice Mary's River stock shrinking up badly as I mentioned up there?
Not to the degree you're describing, could be the difference in humidity/rain fall/heat between our locations.
My problems with them are:
- deck boards that have 2 bad sides / huge wane / huge splits (16' is 12' usable) / bowed / rot
- clear that has best side roughsawn and backside indented (1/16" - 1/8") by roller pads (have to plane all 4 sides to get usable board)
- cedar sold/stocked/marked as clear that has knots (sometimes open holes)

I can get better quality consistently from other yards - it's just that brand.

Mac
 
#29 ·
Speaking as a resident of the country you guys get most of your cedar from, I'm very ...amused.
First off, there has been no shortage of cedar here all season. This is the first I've heard of a strike.
Next, it is almost impossible to get lengths more than 16' long
Then, clear cedar is easily available, but only from a few yards.
Finally, your prices are insane. A clear cedar 4x4 here is about $8/ft, and you get it for $4.50?

And forgive my ignorance: what's a timberlock? (I know, I'm supposed to be an expert with more time in the industry than some of you have been alive, but I still don't know what a timberlock is).

By the way, MAc, beautiful workmanship. I wish I had a few more men like you.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Speaking as a resident of the country you guys get most of your cedar from, I'm very ...amused.
First off, there has been no shortage of cedar here all season. This is the first I've heard of a strike.
I know that it's hard to believe, but sometimes our suppliers fabricate
explanations for their short comings.
Up there I believe you guys call it "lying".

Next, it is almost impossible to get lengths more than 16' long
Then, clear cedar is easily available, but only from a few yards.
Finally, your prices are insane. A clear cedar 4x4 here is about $8/ft, and you get it for $4.50?
Maybe partly your VAT?
It's also true that it's easier to get doug fir in Japan than in Indiana.
Maybe some of the same with your cedar.

And forgive my ignorance: what's a timberlock? (I know, I'm supposed to be an expert with more time in the industry than some of you have been alive, but I still don't know what a timberlock is).
HTML:
http://www.mcfeelys.com/search.aspx?q=timberlok&src=M7GLGEN&s_kwcid=timberlok%20fasteners|939219241&gclid=CKTpzbu_5JACFUV0OAodJUZ7Ww
Also: http://www.fastenmaster.com/product.aspx?currentPage=1&catID=8&prodID=9

By the way, MAc, beautiful workmanship. I wish I had a few more men like you.
Don't we all man.
Don't we all?:thumbsup:
 
#31 · (Edited)
I know of a several month long millworkers strike in BC that affected cedar availability in the NW over last Fall. Perhaps it was only regional availability that suffered... I checked out the news as well, I didn't listen only to my suppliers! Though I heard about the strike/availability issues from multiple yards...

Timberlock is a long (5" - 12" lengths) screw with a hex head and built-in washer.

I've been able to get 20' 2x6s in both clear and tight knot for most of the past two years, up until this past Fall.

Thanks for the kudos, guys, it does mean a lot to me.

Mac

Edit to add in links to forestry worker's strike

http://socialistworld.net/eng/2007/10/18canada.html


http://www.bwint.org/default.asp?Index=1074&Language=EN

http://www.cbc.ca/canada/british-columbia/story/2007/07/18/bc-forestry.html
 
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