Kitchen with quirks - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

**Gus Dering** · 09-26-2009, 09:07 PM

The painter finished up today and I made all the final adjustments on this kitchen today.

Can you spot the quirks?

**ChrWright** · 09-26-2009, 09:12 PM

Quirks?

Well, the outlets are too high--but my guess is you're referring to the cabinets?

Sliding doors are definitely different. Toe kicks look a little taller than standard. The plaster arch, with a squared cased opening on the other side is definitely strange. Pocket door?

**ChrWright** · 09-26-2009, 09:14 PM

What goes in the opening on the bar end? Small refrigerator?

**Leo G** · 09-26-2009, 09:24 PM

1st picture, there is no glass in the cabinet doors. The panel on the end run is over the step into the next room. Stained and painted cabinets above and below each other. Still a lot more work to do in the kitchen.

angus242 · 09-26-2009, 09:30 PM

The boxed crown looks a bit strange with the sloped ceiling.

Can someone say LARGE grout joints.

**ChrWright** · 09-26-2009, 09:31 PM

I'm guessing Gus is holding out on the finished kitchen pics...

**Gus Dering** · 09-26-2009, 09:58 PM

These pics were taken today. Yes there is alot of work to do but not related to the cabinets. I was responsible for the paint job on the cabs only.

The kicks are 5" tall, good eye there
Stained and painted cabs, blind man can see that.
Sliding doors are quirky, easy one

I think there are a few more.

Yes wine fridge at the end of the line.

**ChrWright** · 09-26-2009, 10:07 PM

Toe kick recess is shallow to the right of the fridge... ? Looks shallow by the stove, too.

I'm guessing stainless hood? Where is it ducting?

**Gus Dering** · 09-26-2009, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrWright

Toe kick recess is shallow to the right of the fridge... ?

I'm guessing stainless hood? Where is it ducting?

Yes shallow kick as we had to cover to the existing tile.

Lets limit the quirks to the cabinets. The GC has his own quirks.

WarnerConstInc. · 09-26-2009, 10:13 PM

I don't want to play anymore.

The only quirk I see is a lack of taste by someone and a floor that should have been re-done.

**Gus Dering** · 09-26-2009, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.

I don't want to play anymore.

The only quirk I see is a lack of taste by someone and a floor that should have been re-done.

I can't agree more about some of the design choices and certainly the floor.

You can sit this out. I won't tell your momma

**ChrWright** · 09-26-2009, 10:31 PM

I see the panels... I'm assuming these will accept the undercabinet lights...

I'm curious about the counters. That ply looks way too well aligned to be temporary.

**ChrWright** · 09-26-2009, 10:33 PM

(and I agree with Angus... the tile looks like a mud fence.)

Bergstrom · 09-26-2009, 10:38 PM

No dishwasher?........or do we just throw them back in the cabinets and save water to put out wild fires

Bergstrom · 09-26-2009, 10:44 PM

Nevermind I see the dishwasher opening now....it's late and I am not wearing my cheaters

**Gus Dering** · 09-26-2009, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrWright

I see the panels... I'm assuming these will accept the undercabinet lights...

I'm curious about the counters. That ply looks way too well aligned to be temporary.

Very good grasshopper. Those panels on the counter will get drilled for puck lights and nailed on the bottom of the uppers.

The sub tops are 5/8 cdx cut on our slider. Sorry they look so nice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bergstrom

No dishwasher?........or do we just throw them back in the cabinets and save water to put out wild fires

You are a funny man.

Wish you would hang out more with us.

Dishwasher to the right of sink, panel leaning in the opening

Bergstrom · 09-26-2009, 11:08 PM

How do you attach the false plywood bottoms, perimeter blocking & screws? I may need to borrow that method from you as it seems pretty quick and straight forward.

Currently I am routing a wireway, oversizing my bottom rail and applying a removable panel on the inside of the cabinet

It looks nice but it is a PITA

**Gus Dering** · 09-26-2009, 11:20 PM

I don't have pics to show you.

In a standard flush inset upper we have been raising the deck to double as a stop for the doors. Creating an extra 3/8" for the lights.

2" bottom rail so that leaves about 1 5/8" from the bottom of the rail to the bottom of the deck.

We just rip some strips about an inch wide and tack them around the perimeter of the bottom. Cut 1/2" ply for the loose panel.

You have a 1" space for the wire. 1 1/2" for the puck. Pretty simple. No routing or messing around. We never supply the lights either.

stp57 · 09-26-2009, 11:40 PM

That looks nice! What kind of wood is that. The color looks a little like Poplar, but overall it looks too good to be Poplar?
Steve

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bergstrom

How do you attach the false plywood bottoms, perimeter blocking & screws? I may need to borrow that method from you as it seems pretty quick and straight forward.

Currently I am routing a wireway, oversizing my bottom rail and applying a removable panel on the inside of the cabinet

It looks nice but it is a PITA

angus242 · 09-26-2009, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stp57

That looks nice! What kind of wood is that.

I'm guessing hickory. That species is starting to really grow on me for cabinets.