built in hutch - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

world llc · 06-20-2009, 10:36 AM

now i understand why you guys charge more for inset doors, what a pain in the butt!! came out beautiful though, can't wait to see how the decorator finishes it.

world llc · 06-20-2009, 10:38 AM

here's some more pics

neolitic · 06-20-2009, 10:46 AM

Very nice work.

bert0168 · 06-20-2009, 12:08 PM

Nice work!

Is the upper backless?

willworkforbeer · 06-20-2009, 12:13 PM

Very nice, you have cabinet shop setup?

world llc · 06-20-2009, 12:31 PM

thanks guys... this was a PITA cause i do not have a shop... this was a collaboration between the festool plunge saw, contractor table saw, chop saw, the woman's iron, and every other non conventional tool you can think of!! the only thing i had to buy was the band saw for the 2 1/2" thick brackets.
there is a 1/4" back to them, the insides are painted 2 coats linen white already so it blends in with the wall a little... there is actually some kind of faux treatment on the wall, camera doesn't pick it up too good though.
i am very pleased the way it came together... i had my doubts through a few mis-calculations and such... took alot longer to make than planned

bert0168 · 06-20-2009, 12:45 PM

So they were site built?

world llc · 06-20-2009, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bert0168

So they were site built?

no... actually i built them in my drive way in between rain storms, then kept in my basement til all was ready. if it was a new construction house it would have been on site built.
basicly i built the main components and put it all together there... the 2 bottom pieces, the 5 drawers, the top, the 2 brackets, the 2 top carcases, 4 shelves, 4 doors, and 9 feet of crown, 30 something feet of beadboard.

**Leo G** · 06-20-2009, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by world llc

... took alot longer to make than planned

Always seems to...don't it?

Anyway, it looks like it came out nice. Good reveals on the doors. I do inset doors so much I never understand what the big fuss is about them. Make a square frame, a square door, subtract 3/16" for the door size - yer done, simple

Without the proper tooling, I could see it being a pain to do.

**Gus Dering** · 06-20-2009, 02:08 PM

Nice job Stud

Did that thread on inset hinging help at all?

The Blum Tandem slides are a bit more forgiving than the side mount one you used.

They make a locking device that has a front to back adjustment built in as well as up and down. They also have a + or - 1/16" tolerance for the width of the drawer box.
All of which saves time in fitting those drawer fronts.

Great job. Glad to see you had the stones to give it a try from the driveway.

That is awesome.

jaros bros. · 06-20-2009, 02:11 PM

I'm doing a kitchen remodel and installing new doors and drawers that are inset. I ordered the door adjusters hoping that this is going to make the process easier. All the old drawers and doors are rubbing because whoever put them in wasn't real fussy. Anyway, I'm not looking forward to it because I know it's going to be a pain. Has anyone used the drawer adjusters, the ones you mortise into the back of the front? It says the allow for 3/16 adjustment.
Nice looking piece by the way. I too, have a lack of space. I'm upgrading in less than a month now and really looking forward to the extra space.

**Leo G** · 06-20-2009, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gus Dering

They make a locking device that has a front to back adjustment built in as well as up and down. They also have a + or - 1/16" tolerance for the width of the drawer box.

It is the PV lock for inset drawers. I wish they would make an adustment for side to side also. Then putting the drawer fronts on would be a dream.

I rarely use the adjusters on the slides, usually for garbage and recycle pullouts. Gotta love them blums.

world llc · 06-20-2009, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leo G

Always seems to...don't it?

Anyway, it lloks like it came out nice. Good reveals on the doors. I do inset doors so much I never understand what the big fuss is about them. Make a square frame, a square door, subtract 3/16" for the door size - yer done, simple

Without the proper tooling, I could see it being a pain to do.

i plan to slowly aquire all the right tools like you guys have, i think the practical experiance will go further than the right tools though...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gus Dering

Nice job Stud

Did that thread on inset hinging help at all?

The Blum Tandem slides are a bit more forgiving than the side mount one you used.

They make a locking device that has a front to back adjustment built in as well as up and down. They also have a + or - 1/16" tolerance for the width of the drawer box.
All of which saves time in fitting those drawer fronts.

Great job. Glad to see you had the stones to give it a try from the driveway.

That is awesome.

actually all the informative threads on this site from you guys has tought me enough to feel confident that i could do nicer projects like this! any other questions i had were filled in by the blum liturature... it's actually pretty straight forward.
the bottom slides for the filing cabinet gave me some issues aligning the face... the belt sander fixed that right up

all the blum hardware made it easy to align, plumb, and square the doors and faces when all together... it really could not have been easier!

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaros bros.

I'm doing a kitchen remodel and installing new doors and drawers that are inset. I ordered the door adjusters hoping that this is going to make the process easier. All the old drawers and doors are rubbing because whoever put them in wasn't real fussy. Anyway, I'm not looking forward to it because I know it's going to be a pain. Has anyone used the drawer adjusters, the ones you mortise into the back of the front? It says the allow for 3/16 adjustment.
Nice looking piece by the way. I too, have a lack of space. I'm upgrading in less than a month now and really looking forward to the extra space.

i used the tandem slides with the ajustable stop mechanism.... all it does is move a little foot in and out on both sides so the face will line up flush when done correctly. the only problem with the tandem is you loose 1/2" plus the thickness of the bottom of the drawer, but it's worth it in my book

**genecarp** · 06-20-2009, 02:53 PM

Looks good, well done

SLSTech · 06-20-2009, 03:12 PM

Very nice work, I am in the same boat you are & yah, it is a major PITA (ok I work on a covered deck which helps a little...)

jaros bros. · 06-20-2009, 06:59 PM

Leo, have you used the Blum drawer front adjusters? The allow you to move the drawer front up, down, and side to side. I have not had a problem with depth. Gauge blocks work fine for me.

**Leo G** · 06-20-2009, 07:03 PM

No I haven't used them. I just use 4 screws, center the drawer front and screw it in. Because of the side to side play in the blum slides it can move while applying pressure to hold the drawer front to the drawer box.

Not really sure what they look like or how they operate.

**Gus Dering** · 06-20-2009, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaros bros.

Leo, have you used the Blum drawer front adjusters? The allow you to move the drawer front up, down, and side to side. I have not had a problem with depth. Gauge blocks work fine for me.

We use them for the commercial jobs and some slab front jobs.

You just drill a hole in the back of the drawer front and tap in the plastic thingy. And the threaded do dad in the middle floats around in there.

The key to the hole thing is drilling the holes in an accurate pattern both on the front and the drawer box.

At least a drill press is needed for any kind of production. We have a dedicated hinge insertion machine set up just for it. Not completely necessary though.

After you install and adjust for the last time then you need to add some wood screws to secure it.

The easier way is using drawer front adjuster screws. They have washer heads on them and come in lengths of 1 1/8" and 1 1/4".

You just drill a 5/16" hole in the drawer box and send the screw into the middle of the hole. If done properly you can get your adjustment with the slop in the hole and the washer head covers the hole and provides good holding power when you suck it up.

I made a jig for our standard 1/2" overlay jobs. Place the front in the jig and it has stops for the drawer box to register to. Then send those screws down the middle of the hole. Pretty easy for the face frame overlay jobs. We have all kinds of methods for the inset jobs but they are a little slower.

**Leo G** · 06-20-2009, 09:59 PM

So you need to put the hole for the thing-a-ma-jig in both the drawer and the front? Sounds time consuming for a one of custom shop. Better suited for the mass production shop. I'm glad I asked.

**Gus Dering** · 06-20-2009, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leo G

So you need to put the hole for the thing-a-ma-jig in both the drawer and the front? Sounds time consuming for a one of custom shop. Better suited for the mass production shop. I'm glad I asked.

Yeah it's slower and those little round thingys are about 20 something cents a piece.
They are good though.

The hole in the front is about 1" and your hole in the box is just for the machine screw. But they need to match up real good.
When you get your cnc you can get your machine to do all of that. I'm not there but you can do it.

My partner came from a commercial background using them. So on the frameless jobs he still wants to use them. I just let it go.