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11-03-2009, 08:11 PM
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#21
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LRG WoodCrafting
Trade:
Professional Sawdust Producer
Join Date: May 2005
Location: USA, Connecticut
Posts: 3,903
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How are you cleaning up the treads? Planer, drum sander, widebelt sander, random orbit sander?
__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HusqyPro
Carpenter by day.
Mad scientist by night.
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http://lrgwood.com
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11-03-2009, 08:14 PM
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#22
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling general
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Annapolis Md
Posts: 1,514
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he said he used his portable planer
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11-03-2009, 08:17 PM
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#23
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LRG WoodCrafting
Trade:
Professional Sawdust Producer
Join Date: May 2005
Location: USA, Connecticut
Posts: 3,903
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Had to go back quite a few posts to find that, thanks.
__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HusqyPro
Carpenter by day.
Mad scientist by night.
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http://lrgwood.com
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11-03-2009, 08:31 PM
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#24
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Member
Trade:
General contractor
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo G
How are you cleaning up the treads? Planer, drum sander, widebelt sander, random orbit sander?
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I can see you have your answer but let me tell you, it planed very well. The resin does not get hard. The bottom of the boards are covered with resin and I was nervous the first time it went into my planer but it milled very nicely.
I installed some older blades I had for my portable planer but after seeing how easy it cuts, next time I will leave good knifes in. This would save me time since I would not have to sand the marks my crapy old knifes left behind.
I don't know how well it would go thru a sander. Since the resin stays pliable, I wonder if it would clog the paper up. I am sure other could answer this question.
Dave
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11-03-2009, 08:38 PM
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#25
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LRG WoodCrafting
Trade:
Professional Sawdust Producer
Join Date: May 2005
Location: USA, Connecticut
Posts: 3,903
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I'm surprised that it was still not hard hard. My experience is that it gets very hard and will sand to a powder.
__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HusqyPro
Carpenter by day.
Mad scientist by night.
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http://lrgwood.com
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11-03-2009, 08:44 PM
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#26
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling general
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Annapolis Md
Posts: 1,514
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Slow hardner at 60 degrees will take a while to cure
I would be surprised if it were fully cured even now.
A week from now will be a different story.
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11-03-2009, 08:45 PM
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#27
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Member
Trade:
General contractor
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo G
I'm surprised that it was still not hard hard. My experience is that it gets very hard and will sand to a powder.
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It was fully cured. It set for 24 hours before I worked on it. It was hard to the touch but when I pealed the left over resin out of the pot I mixed it in, you could bend it around to a degree without it snapping. This is what I mean by pliable. Is this not the case normally?
It came out of the planer like wood shavings and not like dust.
Dave
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11-03-2009, 08:47 PM
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#28
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Member
Trade:
General contractor
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naptown CR
Slow hardner at 60 degrees will take a while to cure
I would be surprised if it were fully cured even now.
A week from now will be a different story.
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I hope I did not rush it. The can said 12 to 15 hours between 60 and 80. I set my heat at 65 and gave it 24.
Time will tell I guess.
Dave
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11-03-2009, 08:48 PM
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#29
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LRG WoodCrafting
Trade:
Professional Sawdust Producer
Join Date: May 2005
Location: USA, Connecticut
Posts: 3,903
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It should dry rigid and non flexible. I always say it you hit it with the hammer it will dent the hammer.
__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HusqyPro
Carpenter by day.
Mad scientist by night.
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http://lrgwood.com
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11-03-2009, 08:49 PM
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#30
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling general
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Annapolis Md
Posts: 1,514
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West generally doesn't cure fully for about 3 days at 70 degrees with standard hardner. This does not mean that the joints you glued up will be compromised.
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11-03-2009, 08:51 PM
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#31
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling general
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Annapolis Md
Posts: 1,514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crovello
It was fully cured. It set for 24 hours before I worked on it. It was hard to the touch but when I pealed the left over resin out of the pot I mixed it in, you could bend it around to a degree without it snapping. This is what I mean by pliable. Is this not the case normally?
It came out of the planer like wood shavings and not like dust.
Dave
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A thin layer will retain some flexibility this is normal.
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11-04-2009, 07:51 PM
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#32
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Member
Trade:
General contractor
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 84
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Curved treads went in without incident. I was a little concerned that when I made the cuts to get them over the 4x4s that suport the railings something would come apart but this was not the case.
The posts will suport framing and plywood. The balustrade is actually a shingled wall. I have about a mile of weaving to do on the sidewall. uggg
All I have left to do is bung the holes and install the cove molding. On the main deck I used a urethane glue to set the bungs. would the West System work well for this?
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11-04-2009, 07:54 PM
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#33
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LRG WoodCrafting
Trade:
Professional Sawdust Producer
Join Date: May 2005
Location: USA, Connecticut
Posts: 3,903
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Beautious
__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HusqyPro
Carpenter by day.
Mad scientist by night.
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http://lrgwood.com
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11-04-2009, 09:01 PM
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#34
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Northwest Connecticut
Posts: 1,136
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Actually,the random arrangement you were worried about at first,looks pretty darn good the way each step's detail seems to look purposeful.
Nicely done!
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