Very Unusual Carpentry Riddle, Making Fancy Trimmed Out Yard Signs, Need Advice

jordanski

hi guys,

love the site, name's jordan, do painting & remodeling & ext. restorations in seattle. I got an unusual question for ya.

I had my design guys make turn my biz card into 5 fancy yard signs, which I laminated, they are 20" high by 30" wide.

I'm a little operation, one job at a time, my plan is to make 5 yard signs that are actually a nice little piece of carpentry.

the tentative plan:
1. glue down the laminated design with frp non-solvent glue to a fully pre-primed substrate (1/2" AC maybe?), with 1x4 or 2x4 backing, kinda like a crate frame
2. trim out edges with pre-painted (black oil enamel) hemlock 90 degree outside corner to cover the cut edges of the board, with hemlock casings behind that covering the sides
3. caulk and cover everything in two coats of glossy black oil based enamel (burly floor and porch type paint)
4. attach to a metal stake in back, nicest yard sign in seattle, bow!


My question is about warping, obviously the signs will look stupid warped, we get plenty of rain even during summer here in seattle, and the layers may pop if the plywood warps. The trim covers the plywood edges and everything would be encapsulated in porch paint with my design.

What combination would I use to keep the ply from warping? I would like to avoid spending a ton of money on 5 signs that may get stolen for all I know, so two sheets of $80 specialty plywood wouldn't be my first wish.

My one idea was 1/2" AC screwed/embedded into mortared 1/2" hardibacker, then make the backing frame out of 1x4 instead of 2x4" to keep the thickness down. I don't care if they're heavy as I'll only be moving one at a time and this is a labor of love type project. I don't need 40 vinyl yard signs, just one for each project.

Any ideas?

thanks in advance
jordan

bill r

Jordan it sounds like a nice idea. I'd like to suggest a slightly different approach, however. I'd build a real wood sign, and have it professionally done with weather-proof materials by a sign guy.

If I was doing it, I'd stay away from plywood, plastic, laminates and think more in terms of router-engraved lettering with contrasting paint. These are ubiquitous along the coast of Maine. They absolutely reek of high-class workmanship, etc.

If you're gonna do it, its gotta be first class. Good luck.

jordanski

nice idea, that would get stolen in half the spots I work in seattle, the neighborhoods are gentrifying, you can't even leave demo-ed metal siding out overnight in some areas...

I should elaborate, these are signs for small residential jobsites, specifically for sidewalk foot traffic, not a sedentary office, I would go the pro route for that kind of space for sure...

I appreciate the idea, but what I really need with is help stiffening up some AC so it won't warp... cost effectively, I'm trying to make 5 signs that look nice and unique but not so pricey that I'll jump out of a window if one gets stolen...

I'll go with AC, cbu screws & mortar, hardibacker & frame if I can't find a better idea. Just hoping someone finds this interesting and knows a little more than I.
thanks for the time...
J

wackman

Hey Jordan, we're down in Portland, Oregon and I do something similar.

I have several signs that are basically two 12"x12" columns all trimmed out with crown and dental course then I have the graphic in the center. All total they're about 4 feet wide and 7 feet tall and take steel to anchor in the ground. I had copper flashing tops made to protect them from the rain. One of them has cultured stone on the bottom half of the two column legs.

The problem I had was my graphic was sealed inside two peices of non reflective plexiglass and the moisture would just find a way in and ruin the graphics. Now I have them professionally made by a sign guy who has an ingenious metal laminated system that is 100% waterproof and reflective. They look great even at night. If I can find any pictures I'll post them.

I'd stay away from ply except for MDO for the columns.

tcleve4911

We use metal sign in a metal frame. Just like the realtor's. Easy to install & remove, durable & portable.
Works! !!!!

__________________
Back in Maine
Dubbin' Around
Doin' good stuff ......

jordanski

geez wackman, your signs sound off the hook!
I don't think many people will let me put something like that in their yard. Sounds like you could buy a truck for one of those, nevertheless, I like someone who does it with class. I'm still tooling up and paying off debts after almost 4 years in so I'm considering this a luxury project, I think a bead of silicone on the frontside of the outside corner trim will be all I need to keep the laminate dry. Maybe I could look into a 1/4" synthetic board (plastic?) that I could countersink screws into a sheet of ply and keep the trim carpentry idea. Both your ideas are interesting...
hopefully someone else will chime in...
Remember, I'm a little guy, residential work, 2x3' signs, trying to make something nice but with a DIY punk rock approach, out of my shop. Just want to pay for supplies.
thanks for the ideas, guys...
jordan

wackman

I'll post a pic of one of mine, maybe you can take something from it to use as your own.

hrscammisa

Try a sign shop and see what they will charge.And if nothing else may be get some ideas from them

Jack's Building

I like the idea as a way to stand out from the crowd and at the same time show your skills.

What are the signs printed on?

If it were me, I would use 1/2" A/C plywood for the back. The sign would be printed on tin, which I would glue to the back. Then frame the edges of the plywood with 1x4s cut at 45 degrees. The 4" side would lay flat on top of the sign / plywood back. Next I would but a 1x2 trim covering the side of the 1x4 and the edge of the plywood. It would stick up about 1/2" higher than the 1x4 frame. Use caulk where needed. For legs, I think that I would use angle iorn, 1" maybe. The legs would be bolted to the back of the sign.

I would avoid Black paint. Not the best looking and the sun will get too it.

Jack