Sleeper System & Flooring Question

BreyerConstruct · 11-14-2008, 03:39 PM

Hey guys,

I almost hate to ask, because it shows where I'm weak in my building knowledge, but you don't learn if you don't ask, so here goes:

I'm looking to put on a simple 16' x 24' addition to my house. The addition of another baby at the end of this year is pushing our space, and it's either sell & move up, or expand slightly. Given the economy, I can build easier than I can move!

My house is a hodge-bodge of various construction techniques, and I'm trying to tie-in several different things with this project, so that the overall result is a more modern house with increased functionality.

The side of the house I'm looking to expand has a basement, but it's an old stone wall basement. I'd like to put together the addition as a "at grade" system, with a foundation, but without a full basement.

I am very comfortable with putting a full basement together, and even a crawlspace. However, I'm not as comfortable putting together a footer-ed slab & building off of that. I think I understand the proper process, and have done it in smaller applications before, but not for a project of this size.

Basically, my thought was to dig & pour the footer, lay-up a block wall to grade, backfill and pour crete.
Once the crete is set I'd build my walls & roof (single floor).
Then install a moisture barrier, and place pt 2x4 studs flat every 16", with rigid foam insulation in between them. Then install Advantech 3/4 over the sleepers, and carpet on that.

However, I've been reading thru the 2006 IRC, and I can't find anything specific to this idea. So I turned to the search function here, but most of the posts were about putting together a floor where you need to build it up a bit- and I'd prefer a sealed system with no crawlspace.

I'm not looking for someone else to do my job, but any advice would be great. Specifically, if there is a section of the code that deals with this, and I'm missing it, I'd appreciate a "point in the right direction".

I've attached a drawing so crude, I'm almost embarrassed to show it.

However, I think it should get across the idea.

As always, I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks in advance,
~Matt

neolitic · 11-14-2008, 03:46 PM

Looks like paying for the same thing twice?
Complicates your HVAC too. (If the plant is
in the basement)
What do you have against a Crawl?
Obviously you want a wood floor system.

BreyerConstruct · 11-14-2008, 03:56 PM

I don't have HVAC concerns for this location, since it shares heating from the adjacent room of the (current) house, and will have a gas fireplace. Cooling is the old-fashioned way, windows & window A/C. (this matches the rest of the house).

I initially was thinking that the subfloor might add some insulation and "feel", as well as work better for the carpet. However I didn't really give much thought to just installing carpet over concrete. I know it's got to have the moisture barrier & proper padding...

Any thoughts?
BTW, thanks for the quick reply!
~Matt

BreyerConstruct · 11-14-2008, 03:57 PM

Oh, and a crawl needs access. I won't have it from the outside; though I could from the existing basement. However, since this portion of the existing house is brick walls with a stone foundation, I want to leave it alone as much as possible...

~Matt

neolitic · 11-14-2008, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BreyerConstruct

I know it's got to have the moisture barrier & proper padding...

Any thoughts?
BTW, thanks for the quick reply!
~Matt

6mil visqueen under the slab
takes care of that.

canuck · 11-15-2008, 11:35 PM

Curious as to why you would not just pour a slab on grade? I mean if you want no basement/crawlspace then why use a wood flooring system?

jarhead0531 · 11-16-2008, 01:37 AM

To me carpet directly on top of concrete always felt colder than one put on wood. I'm basing this off no real experience or data other than walking around on carpet in a finished basement. I'm guessing the thermal break created by installing the sleepers and ply floor would make the floor more comfortable to walk on, and a little softer for the little ones.

I would concerned with termites building off a slab at grade level. Too easy for the little suckers to sneak in with no telltale mud tubes to clue you in until it is too late. Is there a reason you want to build at grade??

If you don't mind me asking what room are you expanding?? You said you had no heat/cooling concerns but an additional 384sqft could make the entire area pretty chilly in the winter, even with a gas fireplace.

Barry and can't sleep tonight.

BreyerConstruct · 11-17-2008, 10:24 AM

Thanks for the questions guys!

Let me see if I can answer them. I've included the plot plan and 3D view of the proposed addition.

If you look at hte center of the plan, you'll see a 4 room square. This was an old salt box house, that was added onto in the 40's on the back (kitchen & bathroom), then in 1980 on the front (that's now my offices), and again in the back in 2004 (By me; more kitchen, laundry room, and second floor over back 1/2 of house).

The current living room will provide the entrance to the new living space. This room already has a heater that is too big for the space, making it one of the warmest rooms in the house usually. The heater we'd be using is currently in my master bedroom (that's the 2nd floor addition over the kitchen/bath/laundry). It's way too much for that space, and I'd like to back that down to a smaller heater.

There are 2 reasons I'd like to stay "up" with my addition as much as possible. Obviously, the cost is a factor, but the 2 concerns are first the stone foundation wall of the house, and second, the sewer plumbing under this area.

First, the walls. We put in a foundation last year that tied-into an old stone foundation. It was repointed on the inside, and looked great. When the city decided that they wanted a drainage system cut in around the entire old house, we discovered that the walls wern't all that great exposed... and my client ran out of money before she could get the walls repaired on the outside. I'd like to leave my walls along. They're doing a good job with their own space; I'll support the new stuff on new stuff.

Now, that drain line. This house was a total gut job when we bought it 5 years ago. I've buried a substancial amount of rock, brick, and debris in the yard, and have had the oppertunity to figure out a lot of what's under the surface. THe story goes that this was the (or close to the) neighborhood dump years ago, so there was more broken glass and old bricks than you could count. We spent weeks power raking, scraping, and clearing the yard!

I have done a bit of digging in this area. I know it's solid and compacted, but that it won't be fun to try and carve out a foll or 1/2 basement. Also, the current kitchen/bath/laundry are all basically at grade, although the kitchen is framed, and over dirt. (nothing I added on to, that is all over crete!).
The drain line for the kitchen runs toward the back yard, where it then turn around, runs under the corner of the house, and to the front of the property to hit the street. If memory serves, it's 10' + down at that point. Honestly, this line works, and I'd rather not try and dig it up, sice I can't get under my house to follow the rest of the line (I've tried) if I were to replace it.

So, My thought was to let sleeping dogs lie whenever possible, and build anything I can as properly as possible, and in the process, try and improve what is already here, if possible.

Oh, and the subfloor over the concrete- that was just to make it more comfortable to walk on...

OK, what other cans of worms have I now opened up?

~Matt

AutumnWood Inc. · 11-17-2008, 11:38 AM

I would think a crawl space is the best method and also be the most affordable and giving you the most flexability for the space if you needed to run HVAC or any lines through that area. Once you slab that footing off and build directly on top you lose all access.

I am not sure if the crawl is option ?

just a thought

BreyerConstruct · 11-17-2008, 11:47 AM

well, a crawl pushes my foundation wall lower, and I don't want to get too low with the stone walls I'm touching, or the old sewer line... and then I've got to frame a floor with 2x10's, instead of a sleeper system, so it's more $$.

And no need for HVAC access...

Although I do like the potential of extra storage space...

~Matt

AutumnWood Inc. · 11-17-2008, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BreyerConstruct

well, a crawl pushes my foundation wall lower, and I don't want to get too low with the stone walls I'm touching, or the old sewer line... and then I've got to frame a floor with 2x10's, instead of a sleeper system, so it's more $$.

And no need for HVAC access...

Although I do like the potential of extra storage space...

~Matt

How come it brings down your foundation wall ? Is it the difference between the 4" slab and 2x10/sill plate ? What is difference between outside grade and inside floor height. I have seen alot of problems with slabs at grade in condo's with leaking and other problems

You still have the cost of the concrete slab

A few other ideas not sure if they are an option

Have you thought about SIP floor panels. We use them for sunroom floors built on a deck frame or block foundation wall It might work for either way

There also was an issue of Fine Home Building awhile back that went over a floor over concrete. It had 1" polystrene foam and 2 layers of 1/2 plywood over the concrete basement floor

BreyerConstruct · 11-17-2008, 12:47 PM

Hey Bayn,

For the foundation walls, I was referring to the footer level. If there is a crawlspace, I've got to get below that level, so we'll be digging more.
Inside elevation is about 12" above outside elevation.

If I were to do a crawlspace, I'd want it to have at least a rat slab poured, which might be 2" thick... so the cost of 4" finished isn't much, especially sine it's work we can comfortably do. The time-frame is close, the cost of 6 yards of crete is less than $600 delivered. Depending on the height of your crawlspace, you're either digging out a lot of soil, or you're framing with PT, so those costs are variable.

I still like the simplicity of leaving the existing alone as much as possible. Footer @ 36", footer block to grade, pour a slab, frame the walls, and stick a roof on it. Nice and simple.

However, anyone who knows me, knows that I appreciate opposing ideas, and advice!
(So if you think I'm wacked, tell me!)

~Matt

PS, good reference in your tag line...

BreyerConstruct · 11-17-2008, 12:51 PM

BTW, AW- Beautiful decks in your website portfolio!

I can appreciate the mix of brick with composite decking...

~Matt

AutumnWood Inc. · 11-17-2008, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BreyerConstruct

Hey Bayn,

For the foundation walls, I was referring to the footer level. If there is a crawlspace, I've got to get below that level, so we'll be digging more.
Inside elevation is about 12" above outside elevation.

If I were to do a crawlspace, I'd want it to have at least a rat slab poured, which might be 2" thick... so the cost of 4" finished isn't much, especially sine it's work we can comfortably do. The time-frame is close, the cost of 6 yards of crete is less than $600 delivered. Depending on the height of your crawlspace, you're either digging out a lot of soil, or you're framing with PT, so those costs are variable.

I still like the simplicity of leaving the existing alone as much as possible. Footer @ 36", footer block to grade, pour a slab, frame the walls, and stick a roof on it. Nice and simple.

However, anyone who knows me, knows that I appreciate opposing ideas, and advice!
(So if you think I'm wacked, tell me!)

~Matt

PS, good reference in your tag line...

Yeah I think cost for the excavating and the extra slab in the crawl would be more than your slab/footing combo idea
Sometimes if you are elevated a little more with your finish height there is not alot dirt to be moved. But in your scenario it would be a couple of feet to be removed for the crawl. I think as long as your slab is elevated off the ground level you will be golden. Here in Michigan i have seen alot of problems with condo's and not much of a difference between slab interior floor height and the exterior grade height

Thank you for the nice comments on the web site
Likewise,

I have learned alot from you and all the deck guys here

Good Luck with your addition!

orson · 11-17-2008, 08:54 PM

I wonder what DOW would have to say about using SIS instead of sleepers, PolySyrene and sheathing. I'd think it would be cheaper.

If your crete was nice and flat you could probably loose lay the SIS on the concrete w/o fasteners.

The SIS would also serve as a vapor barrier.

Just a thought.

BreyerConstruct · 11-17-2008, 09:07 PM

SIS?

~Matt

orson · 11-17-2008, 09:20 PM

Sorry, I hate it when people do that too...

structural insulated sheathing

SLSTech · 11-17-2008, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BreyerConstruct

SIS?

~Matt

Web site http://www.structuralsystems.com/sis.html

BreyerConstruct · 11-17-2008, 09:44 PM

Thanks guys... I've been schooled.

~Matt

Tom M · 11-23-2008, 11:44 AM

Matt, You need to dig a portion of the new addition at least 45 degrees to the depth of the existing basement. In order to not have unbalanced fill your addtion is going to require a stepped footing. If you were going out 8ft it would be pointless not to dig the whole thing. Your 16ft is more than certainly more but since you need to dig a part of it mind as well just do the crawl space.

11-14-2008, 03:39 PM	#1
BreyerConstruct View Profile BreyerConstruct Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (1,739) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Trade: Deck Designer/Builder Join Date: May 2006 Location: Reading, PA Posts: 1,739	Sleeper System & Flooring Question Hey guys, I almost hate to ask, because it shows where I'm weak in my building knowledge, but you don't learn if you don't ask, so here goes: I'm looking to put on a simple 16' x 24' addition to my house. The addition of another baby at the end of this year is pushing our space, and it's either sell & move up, or expand slightly. Given the economy, I can build easier than I can move! My house is a hodge-bodge of various construction techniques, and I'm trying to tie-in several different things with this project, so that the overall result is a more modern house with increased functionality. The side of the house I'm looking to expand has a basement, but it's an old stone wall basement. I'd like to put together the addition as a "at grade" system, with a foundation, but without a full basement. I am very comfortable with putting a full basement together, and even a crawlspace. However, I'm not as comfortable putting together a footer-ed slab & building off of that. I think I understand the proper process, and have done it in smaller applications before, but not for a project of this size. Basically, my thought was to dig & pour the footer, lay-up a block wall to grade, backfill and pour crete. Once the crete is set I'd build my walls & roof (single floor). Then install a moisture barrier, and place pt 2x4 studs flat every 16", with rigid foam insulation in between them. Then install Advantech 3/4 over the sleepers, and carpet on that. However, I've been reading thru the 2006 IRC, and I can't find anything specific to this idea. So I turned to the search function here, but most of the posts were about putting together a floor where you need to build it up a bit- and I'd prefer a sealed system with no crawlspace. I'm not looking for someone else to do my job, but any advice would be great. Specifically, if there is a section of the code that deals with this, and I'm missing it, I'd appreciate a "point in the right direction". I've attached a drawing so crude, I'm almost embarrassed to show it. However, I think it should get across the idea. As always, I'm open to suggestions. Thanks in advance, ~Matt Attached Thumbnails __________________ Custom Deck Builder Deck Designer Lancaster Deck Builder Berks Deck Cleaning Breyer Construction & Landscape, LLC Facebook Page www.BreyerConstruction.com

11-14-2008, 03:46 PM	#2
neolitic View Profile neolitic Curmudgeon Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (11,707) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Curmudgeon Trade: carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do" Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool" Posts: 11,707	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question Looks like paying for the same thing twice? Complicates your HVAC too. (If the plant is in the basement) What do you have against a Crawl? Obviously you want a wood floor system. __________________ Put your location in your profile! (Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

11-14-2008, 03:56 PM	#3
BreyerConstruct View Profile BreyerConstruct Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (1,739) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Trade: Deck Designer/Builder Join Date: May 2006 Location: Reading, PA Posts: 1,739	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question I don't have HVAC concerns for this location, since it shares heating from the adjacent room of the (current) house, and will have a gas fireplace. Cooling is the old-fashioned way, windows & window A/C. (this matches the rest of the house). I initially was thinking that the subfloor might add some insulation and "feel", as well as work better for the carpet. However I didn't really give much thought to just installing carpet over concrete. I know it's got to have the moisture barrier & proper padding... Any thoughts? BTW, thanks for the quick reply! ~Matt __________________ Custom Deck Builder Deck Designer Lancaster Deck Builder Berks Deck Cleaning Breyer Construction & Landscape, LLC Facebook Page www.BreyerConstruction.com

11-14-2008, 03:57 PM	#4
BreyerConstruct View Profile BreyerConstruct Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (1,739) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Trade: Deck Designer/Builder Join Date: May 2006 Location: Reading, PA Posts: 1,739	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question Oh, and a crawl needs access. I won't have it from the outside; though I could from the existing basement. However, since this portion of the existing house is brick walls with a stone foundation, I want to leave it alone as much as possible... ~Matt __________________ Custom Deck Builder Deck Designer Lancaster Deck Builder Berks Deck Cleaning Breyer Construction & Landscape, LLC Facebook Page www.BreyerConstruction.com

11-15-2008, 11:35 PM	#6
canuck View Profile canuck New Guy Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (25) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity New Guy Trade: General Commercial Construction Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 25	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question Curious as to why you would not just pour a slab on grade? I mean if you want no basement/crawlspace then why use a wood flooring system?

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11-16-2008, 01:37 AM	#7
jarhead0531 View Profile jarhead0531 Pro Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (127) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Pro Trade: Electrician and Remodeler Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central NJ Posts: 127	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question To me carpet directly on top of concrete always felt colder than one put on wood. I'm basing this off no real experience or data other than walking around on carpet in a finished basement. I'm guessing the thermal break created by installing the sleepers and ply floor would make the floor more comfortable to walk on, and a little softer for the little ones. I would concerned with termites building off a slab at grade level. Too easy for the little suckers to sneak in with no telltale mud tubes to clue you in until it is too late. Is there a reason you want to build at grade?? If you don't mind me asking what room are you expanding?? You said you had no heat/cooling concerns but an additional 384sqft could make the entire area pretty chilly in the winter, even with a gas fireplace. Barry and can't sleep tonight.

11-17-2008, 10:24 AM	#8
BreyerConstruct View Profile BreyerConstruct Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (1,739) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Trade: Deck Designer/Builder Join Date: May 2006 Location: Reading, PA Posts: 1,739	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question Thanks for the questions guys! Let me see if I can answer them. I've included the plot plan and 3D view of the proposed addition. If you look at hte center of the plan, you'll see a 4 room square. This was an old salt box house, that was added onto in the 40's on the back (kitchen & bathroom), then in 1980 on the front (that's now my offices), and again in the back in 2004 (By me; more kitchen, laundry room, and second floor over back 1/2 of house). The current living room will provide the entrance to the new living space. This room already has a heater that is too big for the space, making it one of the warmest rooms in the house usually. The heater we'd be using is currently in my master bedroom (that's the 2nd floor addition over the kitchen/bath/laundry). It's way too much for that space, and I'd like to back that down to a smaller heater. There are 2 reasons I'd like to stay "up" with my addition as much as possible. Obviously, the cost is a factor, but the 2 concerns are first the stone foundation wall of the house, and second, the sewer plumbing under this area. First, the walls. We put in a foundation last year that tied-into an old stone foundation. It was repointed on the inside, and looked great. When the city decided that they wanted a drainage system cut in around the entire old house, we discovered that the walls wern't all that great exposed... and my client ran out of money before she could get the walls repaired on the outside. I'd like to leave my walls along. They're doing a good job with their own space; I'll support the new stuff on new stuff. Now, that drain line. This house was a total gut job when we bought it 5 years ago. I've buried a substancial amount of rock, brick, and debris in the yard, and have had the oppertunity to figure out a lot of what's under the surface. THe story goes that this was the (or close to the) neighborhood dump years ago, so there was more broken glass and old bricks than you could count. We spent weeks power raking, scraping, and clearing the yard! I have done a bit of digging in this area. I know it's solid and compacted, but that it won't be fun to try and carve out a foll or 1/2 basement. Also, the current kitchen/bath/laundry are all basically at grade, although the kitchen is framed, and over dirt. (nothing I added on to, that is all over crete!). The drain line for the kitchen runs toward the back yard, where it then turn around, runs under the corner of the house, and to the front of the property to hit the street. If memory serves, it's 10' + down at that point. Honestly, this line works, and I'd rather not try and dig it up, sice I can't get under my house to follow the rest of the line (I've tried) if I were to replace it. So, My thought was to let sleeping dogs lie whenever possible, and build anything I can as properly as possible, and in the process, try and improve what is already here, if possible. Oh, and the subfloor over the concrete- that was just to make it more comfortable to walk on... OK, what other cans of worms have I now opened up? ~Matt Attached Thumbnails __________________ Custom Deck Builder Deck Designer Lancaster Deck Builder Berks Deck Cleaning Breyer Construction & Landscape, LLC Facebook Page www.BreyerConstruction.com

11-17-2008, 11:38 AM	#9
AutumnWood Inc. View Profile AutumnWood Inc. Pro Deck Builder Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (508) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Pro Deck Builder Trade: Deck Builder Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Metro Detroit Posts: 508	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question I would think a crawl space is the best method and also be the most affordable and giving you the most flexability for the space if you needed to run HVAC or any lines through that area. Once you slab that footing off and build directly on top you lose all access. I am not sure if the crawl is option ? just a thought __________________ michigan deck builders\| oakland county michigan deck builders \| macomb county michigan deck builders \| michigan deck contractor \|

11-17-2008, 11:47 AM	#10
BreyerConstruct View Profile BreyerConstruct Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (1,739) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Trade: Deck Designer/Builder Join Date: May 2006 Location: Reading, PA Posts: 1,739	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question well, a crawl pushes my foundation wall lower, and I don't want to get too low with the stone walls I'm touching, or the old sewer line... and then I've got to frame a floor with 2x10's, instead of a sleeper system, so it's more $$. And no need for HVAC access... Although I do like the potential of extra storage space... ~Matt __________________ Custom Deck Builder Deck Designer Lancaster Deck Builder Berks Deck Cleaning Breyer Construction & Landscape, LLC Facebook Page www.BreyerConstruction.com

11-17-2008, 12:47 PM	#12
BreyerConstruct View Profile BreyerConstruct Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (1,739) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Trade: Deck Designer/Builder Join Date: May 2006 Location: Reading, PA Posts: 1,739	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question Hey Bayn, For the foundation walls, I was referring to the footer level. If there is a crawlspace, I've got to get below that level, so we'll be digging more. Inside elevation is about 12" above outside elevation. If I were to do a crawlspace, I'd want it to have at least a rat slab poured, which might be 2" thick... so the cost of 4" finished isn't much, especially sine it's work we can comfortably do. The time-frame is close, the cost of 6 yards of crete is less than $600 delivered. Depending on the height of your crawlspace, you're either digging out a lot of soil, or you're framing with PT, so those costs are variable. I still like the simplicity of leaving the existing alone as much as possible. Footer @ 36", footer block to grade, pour a slab, frame the walls, and stick a roof on it. Nice and simple. However, anyone who knows me, knows that I appreciate opposing ideas, and advice! (So if you think I'm wacked, tell me!) ~Matt PS, good reference in your tag line... __________________ Custom Deck Builder Deck Designer Lancaster Deck Builder Berks Deck Cleaning Breyer Construction & Landscape, LLC Facebook Page www.BreyerConstruction.com

11-17-2008, 12:51 PM	#13
BreyerConstruct View Profile BreyerConstruct Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (1,739) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Trade: Deck Designer/Builder Join Date: May 2006 Location: Reading, PA Posts: 1,739	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question BTW, AW- Beautiful decks in your website portfolio! I can appreciate the mix of brick with composite decking... ~Matt __________________ Custom Deck Builder Deck Designer Lancaster Deck Builder Berks Deck Cleaning Breyer Construction & Landscape, LLC Facebook Page www.BreyerConstruction.com

11-17-2008, 08:54 PM	#15
orson View Profile orson Pro Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (1,328) Photos (12) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Pro Trade: Kitchen & Bath Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Millersville, PA Posts: 1,328	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question I wonder what DOW would have to say about using SIS instead of sleepers, PolySyrene and sheathing. I'd think it would be cheaper. If your crete was nice and flat you could probably loose lay the SIS on the concrete w/o fasteners. The SIS would also serve as a vapor barrier. Just a thought. __________________ Lancaster Remodeling Contractor - Lancaster Remodeling Kitchen & Bath Remodeling PA- Bathroom Remodeling Lancaster PA Custom Kitchen Remodeling PA - Ruby Construction FaceBook-Lancaster Bathroom Remodeling

11-17-2008, 09:07 PM	#16
BreyerConstruct View Profile BreyerConstruct Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (1,739) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Trade: Deck Designer/Builder Join Date: May 2006 Location: Reading, PA Posts: 1,739	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question SIS? ~Matt __________________ Custom Deck Builder Deck Designer Lancaster Deck Builder Berks Deck Cleaning Breyer Construction & Landscape, LLC Facebook Page www.BreyerConstruction.com

11-17-2008, 09:20 PM	#17
orson View Profile orson Pro Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (1,328) Photos (12) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Pro Trade: Kitchen & Bath Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Millersville, PA Posts: 1,328	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question Sorry, I hate it when people do that too... structural insulated sheathing __________________ Lancaster Remodeling Contractor - Lancaster Remodeling Kitchen & Bath Remodeling PA- Bathroom Remodeling Lancaster PA Custom Kitchen Remodeling PA - Ruby Construction FaceBook-Lancaster Bathroom Remodeling

11-17-2008, 09:44 PM	#19
BreyerConstruct View Profile BreyerConstruct Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (1,739) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Workin' Hard & Havin' Fun Trade: Deck Designer/Builder Join Date: May 2006 Location: Reading, PA Posts: 1,739	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question Thanks guys... I've been schooled. ~Matt __________________ Custom Deck Builder Deck Designer Lancaster Deck Builder Berks Deck Cleaning Breyer Construction & Landscape, LLC Facebook Page www.BreyerConstruction.com

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11-23-2008, 11:44 AM	#20
Tom M View Profile Tom M Pro Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (1,886) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Pro Trade: GC/ Interior & Exterior Remodeling Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Bergen County, NJ Posts: 1,886	Re: Sleeper System & Flooring Question Matt, You need to dig a portion of the new addition at least 45 degrees to the depth of the existing basement. In order to not have unbalanced fill your addtion is going to require a stepped footing. If you were going out 8ft it would be pointless not to dig the whole thing. Your 16ft is more than certainly more but since you need to dig a part of it mind as well just do the crawl space.