mrmike

I have built stick built garages before, but never a Pole barn garage. This is for myself and I know some of you will say I should go bigger, but I already have a big 2 story garage & a shed roof type garage on the back of that.
Anyhow, I am going to need some engineered plans for my Permits, and was wondering if I might be able to get help here. I purchased some built trusses At a steal so this is where I start. They are around a 12/12 pitch or more- & I plan on using metal roofing as the snow should slide right off it the same day. I have 14 of them & one is a gable end. "i will make the other one. The trusses are 21 ft wide & I would like to go 30' deep. I want the garage door to be at least 9' high on a gable end.
Guidelines for the Northeast are: Truss spacing 4' o.c.
Posts 6" x 6" Top Plate double 2" x 8" Wall girts 2x4 24" oc
roof purlins 2x4" 2'o.c.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.......Thanks, Mike

WarnerConstInc.

How are you going to take a 21' truss and make it go 30' wide, or is it 21'x30'

john5mt

are you sure a 6X6 is enough @ 8' oc

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Hotrodhall

6"x6" every 8' is plenty. I believe I would go 32' and double the first and last truss. I would set one on each side of your first and last 6x6. This will help if you put a ceiling in. I would also use 2x6 between top plates on trusses that hit between your 6x6. Just stub them up and cut the 45* angle on them to match the rafter height. good luck

mrmike

Where did I state 8' oc ? These are just guide lines I got from my county Code office. If I remember right that is a 6' o.c. minumum.

How are you going to take a 21' truss and make it go 30' wide, or is it 21'x30'
The building will be 21' w by at leat 30' deep, i think I stated that. Where can I get a detailed plan for a Pole Barn for the permit? Thanks, Mike

hotrod- i failed to mention that my trusses are built out of 2"x6" 's. What kind of Car do ya have? I saw that is someone called stick shift too so their must be some car nuts here............

Kgmz

Why do you want to build it pole barn style instead of stick framed?

If you build the one gable truss and keep the trusses at 2' O.C. you have enough to build it 21'x28' and use standard plywood roof sheathing, if you go to 3' O.C. you could build it 21'x42' with purlins.

Are you planning on insulating this building now or down the road?

The problem I have with pole buildings is they can never be insulated as well as a stick framed building. And if you are not using trusses designed to be spaced at 8', it isn't really any cheaper for the lumber used. The only savings is in the perimeter footing and foundation if this building will have a slab.

mrmike

I want to build it pole barn style for price & less work. I am not going to insulate as I 'm just going to store a boat & one of my old cars there. The building won't have a slab right off,but if I decide later I will as I plan on a treated 2x6" around the bottom perimeter. I am also planning on using metal for the walls & roof. I thought i might get some help here with a plan that will be accepted by my county code enforcement. I will call them next week to find out what I need for plans..........

72chevy4x4

buck up man! plans are written with a pencil and ruler. You've outlined most of the requirements. Make the 2x8 headers into 2x10's, use 1/2" carriage bolts at every end point for carrying the truss weight, place trusses 2'OC for simplicity's sakes. posts spaced 10'OC-one post mid span on end-could go w/ a 4x6 if you're cheap. go w/ PT 2x12 on bottom...if you decide to use concrete in the future, you've got room for 4" gravel adn 4" of concrete. you already stated girts/purlins 2'OC-if you're calculations don't work out to perfect 24", space so that it's no larger than 24". install a 36" entrance door besides the garage door...it will come in handy especially for locking up. you'll need hurricane clips for each truss to header attachment.

you'll likely need the engineer specs with the trusses-some offices won't approve permit w/o inspector seeing it. you said a 'good deal'...something like you've indicated would likely only run $70-75/each-you've got enough trusses for a 52' long building. You'll probably need pictures of each side of finsihed building along w/ a site plan, showing distances from each property line and placement.

mrmike

Thank you very much for your input. Yes I know I have to draw it out on Paper, & thats why I put it on here-for input like yours to make me decide what I want to go with. yea, I have drawn plans before, but was told I might need an engineered plan for the pole barn, so I will drawn one up & need be will bring it to an engineer.
The "good deal" was $450 from someone I know that works at the company that built them. Thanks again for the help

72chevy4x4

you need the truss drawings stamped by the 'engineer'-not hte entire pole barn plans.

Ten Fingers

You kids need to space the trusses the way they were engineered for your area, not the way that seems convenient.

mgard64

I would not use 6x6 for the post. I would us perma- colums for the bases and use reg lumber the regular lumber the rest of the way.We built 4 pole barns last year and would not use 6x6's again. This site will not let me post a link. To the site so just google perma column. One of this site dumb rules!

tomscarpt

Were about to build a 60'x100' pole barn.I agree go with a 2x10 header.One way to insulate the walls is to go with a 2x6 between the 6x6 on edge every 2' up the wall this way r 19 can go in and you can also have a flush wall to finish off in the future.Instead of nailing 2x4s to the outside . Cost is minimal for the upgrade.




What is the cost of a perma column very interesting.
Can you cement them in all level like a deck footing and then build off them with the post.would make building alot faster then sinking a 6x6 into the ground and then leveling each one as you go. (Height wise)

mgard64

With perma colums you can do it either way.Set the bases level then cement in place and back fill. Then attache bottom board to it. We like
to add uprights to them before we stand them or or buy them with uprights already atteched. To stand any pole for a barn we use our. Bob Cat or tellehandler and just slide them into the hole. As far as cost thay are more than treated but a lot stronger.

M&M

P.T. 2" x 6" T & G works very well for your bottom skirt, nail them along the outside of the building 2 rows high. Use a laser level to set the height. The top of the first row is your gravel height. The top of the second one is you concrete height determiner.

mrmike

I got my Permit for the Pole Barn & one of the stipulations is 2-2 x 10" headers/top plate set in a notch on both sides of the 6" x 6". Any suggestions of cutting these notches at 12 feet up? Anyone done this? Thanks, Mike

I am leveling & cutting off the tops of the 6x6's after the poles are set in the ground

SLSTech

Cut the notch(s) before raising the poles

Circular saw, hammer & chisel

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JamesKB2

Pole Barns, done 'em, pros and cons to 'em....

Set your posts, brace them two ways with 2 x 4 (X brace and angle brace to stakes set in grade) Use a transit (remember those?) or laser level, mark your posts from a center point inside the building for a level reference point. Measure up evenly to the truss' support (2 x 10's flanking or let in as you said) and mark it. Lop off each post at the top of the 2 x 10's height. I use a chainsaw and care, it works great. You can let in the 2 x 10's by kerfing the post multiple times and chisel, or cut bottom and sides and then finish it off with a sawzall. Either way....

Working height: Build "lookouts" on posts to support a pick or plank. Or, if you have access to them, use pump jacks (6 x 6 might be hard to find) One guy I know "caps" his 2 x 10 header with a 2 x 10 ripped (flanked header on post) but you could use a 2 x 6 with let in header. Makes a nice walking surface for truss set, and nice to nail into. I don't know if you'll be required to have truss straps (hurricane ties or whatever the lingo is in your area) but you probably will, so the cap lumber might be a waste to you.

The easiest way is with a telehandler, but those are hard to get free for even a day....

mrmike

James, Thank you very much for this info-it sounds great- I was thinking about using a chainsaw. Had that in the back of my mind-so I will go that route. I will also build the "lookouts"- Thanks again for this very useful Info , Mike

HSConstruction

I have set many poles for barns with 2 guys and brute force. Its not so bad, 6x6 16' tall, we were 20 and 24 at the time. largest yet was a 120' x 100' I think the worst part was the roofing the stack never seemed to get smaller of lighter. We would race and put the rubber bands from the nails on our wrist to keep track of who was working harder.

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