OSB Hangerboard For Stair Stringer?

Spencer

I just have a simple question. Will OSB work just fine as a hangerboard for stair stringers?

I am fairly new to stairbuilding. I have done several with the guidance a carpenter who knew what he was doing but now I am on my own. How do you guys usually attach your stringers.

The stairs I am currently doing has a non loadbearing wall at the end. The I joists will be running parallel with this wall. I was thinking of installing an I joist flush with the 2x4. I would then nail my stringers to the hangerboard. And then nail the hangerboard to the top and bottom of the I joist and also to the top plate.

What would you guys do?

Paulsan

In a nutshell, no, absolutely not. Never use OSB to hang your stringers. Always use plywood if you need a hanger board. And glue and screw everthing!

JustaFramer

3/4" OSB will work just fine. Personally I like to use cs16 strapping.

Kevin H

I've used it a bunch of times.. never any problems..after 15 years of framing

sage

I never used or use OSB in this apllication but the framers seem to feel very comfortable with it, Honestly its never really been a thought for me, What does your building dep. have to say about it? Good question?

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Bone Saw

not sure what your particular application is, but why not just do what you described using 2x and losing that thickness from your top plumb cut, I am assuming you are talking about building a prefabbed stair and setting it in place??? got pix?

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sage

Thats what I do. Your only going to have to shave another 3/4 from your plumb cut to use 2x for your hanger board.

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Spencer

Thanks for the input. I'm still not sure exactly what I am going to do.

JustaFramer

Wrong.

The reason you cut 3/4" off the last run is because of the thickness of the toe kicks. If 5/4" was used then you would cut 1" off


Pure value here.

sage

WRONG. The 3/4 for the riser is assumed, Spencer said he built stairs before, so bypass the elementary stuff. If you go from 3/4 hanger board to 2x hanger board you would adjust by cutting an additional 3/4 of the plumb cut so you don't have the entire staircase move 3/4" out. This assumes that the hanger board is not mounted flush in the wall. It sounds like it's not by the posts above.

By the way Justa, I'm bored with you. The only real value in your post is that it once again shows how small a person you really are. Keep coming with the digs. Yawn-Stretch.

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logical

Errrr.... I don't think you are talking about the same thing...at all.

RobertCDF

We NEVER used just the nailer board. We were REQUIRED to use FHA18 straps. We would nail them to the microllam that the staircase would hang off of. Then we would set the stairs and nail off the nailer board then we would nail off the straps to the stringers. I use the same straps for my deck stairs.

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K2

I always did it like Robert, (with the straps), probably because I live in the same county as Robert.

JustaFramer

Even if a block is flush mounted it would have to be cut more than 3/4" more like 1 1/2" Your still wrong. With todays standards that is hackish. the jacks should be strapped as Robert and I have both stated or some other Simpson metal attachment. Plus a thrust block on the bottom run

JustaFramer

And Logical you are not smart enough to flame.


Yes I edited it so the grammar police will stop bringing a man down.

sage

Elementary, Now your really strecthing genius.

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logical

The word you are looking for is "you're"...not "your" which you have mis-used about 95 times.

I may or may not be as smart as a framer but my post (flame?) regarding your post was 100% correct. You were confused.

Take a lesson from V.P. Chaney. When you do or say something really stupid, stop talking and lay low for a few months.

JustaFramer

If it is so elementary then write a tutorial on the proper way to cut stairs.

JustaFramer

whoopy

JustaFramer

You have been called out.