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03-06-2006, 04:36 PM
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#1
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Member
Trade:
General Construction
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Berne, Indiana
Posts: 83
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OSB hangerboard for stair stringer?
I just have a simple question. Will OSB work just fine as a hangerboard for stair stringers?
I am fairly new to stairbuilding. I have done several with the guidance a carpenter who knew what he was doing but now I am on my own. How do you guys usually attach your stringers.
The stairs I am currently doing has a non loadbearing wall at the end. The I joists will be running parallel with this wall. I was thinking of installing an I joist flush with the 2x4. I would then nail my stringers to the hangerboard. And then nail the hangerboard to the top and bottom of the I joist and also to the top plate. 
What would you guys do?
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03-06-2006, 07:24 PM
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#2
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Member
Trade:
New home construction
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 47
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In a nutshell, no, absolutely not. Never use OSB to hang your stringers. Always use plywood if you need a hanger board. And glue and screw everthing!
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03-06-2006, 07:59 PM
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#3
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Moore Means Quality
Trade:
General Carpentry
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lynnwood,WA
Posts: 1,739
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3/4" OSB will work just fine. Personally I like to use cs16 strapping.
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@A Protected Twenty-Seven Simple But Powerful Words
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03-08-2006, 08:16 AM
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#4
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Member
Trade:
home improvement
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 30
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I've used it a bunch of times.. never any problems..after 15 years of framing
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03-08-2006, 08:31 AM
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#5
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SAGE
Trade:
Remodeler and Finish Carpenter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 306
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I never used or use OSB in this apllication but the framers seem to feel very comfortable with it, Honestly its never really been a thought for me, What does your building dep. have to say about it? Good question?
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-Lead from the front, or dont lead at all-
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03-08-2006, 09:01 AM
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#6
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Charitable animal
Trade:
decks
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: SE PA
Posts: 2,440
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not sure what your particular application is, but why not just do what you described using 2x and losing that thickness from your top plumb cut, I am assuming you are talking about building a prefabbed stair and setting it in place??? got pix?
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03-08-2006, 09:10 AM
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#7
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SAGE
Trade:
Remodeler and Finish Carpenter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 306
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Bone Saw
not sure what your particular application is, but why not just do what you described using 2x and losing that thickness from your top plumb cut, I am assuming you are talking about building a prefabbed stair and setting it in place??? got pix?
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Thats what I do. Your only going to have to shave another 3/4 from your plumb cut to use 2x for your hanger board.
__________________
-Lead from the front, or dont lead at all-
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03-08-2006, 09:10 AM
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#8
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Member
Trade:
General Construction
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Berne, Indiana
Posts: 83
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Thanks for the input. I'm still not sure exactly what I am going to do.
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03-09-2006, 01:11 AM
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#9
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Moore Means Quality
Trade:
General Carpentry
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lynnwood,WA
Posts: 1,739
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by sage
Thats what I do. Your only going to have to shave another 3/4 from your plumb cut to use 2x for your hanger board.
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Wrong.
The reason you cut 3/4" off the last run is because of the thickness of the toe kicks. If 5/4" was used then you would cut 1" off
Pure value here. 
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@A Protected Twenty-Seven Simple But Powerful Words
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03-09-2006, 08:03 AM
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#10
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SAGE
Trade:
Remodeler and Finish Carpenter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 306
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by JustaFramer
Wrong.
The reason you cut 3/4" off the last run is because of the thickness of the toe kicks. If 5/4" was used then you would cut 1" off
Pure value here. |
WRONG. The 3/4 for the riser is assumed, Spencer said he built stairs before, so bypass the elementary stuff. If you go from 3/4 hanger board to 2x hanger board you would adjust by cutting an additional 3/4 of the plumb cut so you don't have the entire staircase move 3/4" out. This assumes that the hanger board is not mounted flush in the wall. It sounds like it's not by the posts above.
By the way Justa, I'm bored with you. The only real value in your post is that it once again shows how small a person you really are. Keep coming with the digs. Yawn-Stretch.
__________________
-Lead from the front, or dont lead at all-
Last edited by sage; 03-09-2006 at 08:07 AM.
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03-09-2006, 08:07 AM
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#11
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Sarcasm while you wait.
Trade:
builder of things
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 54
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by JustaFramer
Wrong.
The reason you cut 3/4" off the last run is because of the thickness of the toe kicks. If 5/4" was used then you would cut 1" off
Pure value here. |
Errrr.... I don't think you are talking about the same thing...at all.
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03-09-2006, 09:05 AM
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#12
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Pro
Trade:
Custom deck builder
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 3,071
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We NEVER used just the nailer board. We were REQUIRED to use FHA18 straps. We would nail them to the microllam that the staircase would hang off of. Then we would set the stairs and nail off the nailer board then we would nail off the straps to the stringers. I use the same straps for my deck stairs.
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03-09-2006, 10:48 AM
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#13
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Pro
Trade:
GC. Apprentice electrician
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Colorado Front Range
Posts: 2,570
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I always did it like Robert, (with the straps), probably because I live in the same county as Robert.
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03-09-2006, 08:30 PM
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#14
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Moore Means Quality
Trade:
General Carpentry
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lynnwood,WA
Posts: 1,739
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by sage
WRONG. The 3/4 for the riser is assumed, Spencer said he built stairs before, so bypass the elementary stuff. If you go from 3/4 hanger board to 2x hanger board you would adjust by cutting an additional 3/4 of the plumb cut so you don't have the entire staircase move 3/4" out. This assumes that the hanger board is not mounted flush in the wall. It sounds like it's not by the posts above.
By the way Justa, I'm bored with you. The only real value in your post is that it once again shows how small a person you really are. Keep coming with the digs. Yawn-Stretch. |
Even if a block is flush mounted it would have to be cut more than 3/4" more like 1 1/2" Your still wrong. With todays standards that is hackish. the jacks should be strapped as Robert and I have both stated or some other Simpson metal attachment. Plus a thrust block on the bottom run
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Last edited by JustaFramer; 03-09-2006 at 08:41 PM.
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03-09-2006, 08:32 PM
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#15
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Moore Means Quality
Trade:
General Carpentry
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lynnwood,WA
Posts: 1,739
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And Logical you are not smart enough to flame.
Yes I edited it so the grammar police will stop bringing a man down.
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Last edited by JustaFramer; 03-10-2006 at 10:55 PM.
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03-10-2006, 07:50 AM
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#16
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SAGE
Trade:
Remodeler and Finish Carpenter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 306
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by JustaFramer
Even if a block is flush mounted it would have to be cut more than 3/4" more like 1 1/2" Your still wrong. With todays standards that is hackish. the jacks should be strapped as Robert and I have both stated or some other Simpson metal attachment. Plus a thrust block on the bottom run |
Elementary, Now your really strecthing genius.
__________________
-Lead from the front, or dont lead at all-
Last edited by sage; 03-10-2006 at 07:57 AM.
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03-10-2006, 04:20 PM
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#17
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Sarcasm while you wait.
Trade:
builder of things
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 54
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by JustaFramer
And Logical Your not smart enough to flame.
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The word you are looking for is "you're"...not "your" which you have mis-used about 95 times.
I may or may not be as smart as a framer but my post (flame?) regarding your post was 100% correct. You were confused.
Take a lesson from V.P. Chaney. When you do or say something really stupid, stop talking and lay low for a few months.
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03-10-2006, 08:23 PM
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#18
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Moore Means Quality
Trade:
General Carpentry
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lynnwood,WA
Posts: 1,739
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by sage
Elementary, Now your really strecthing genius.
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If it is so elementary then write a tutorial on the proper way to cut stairs.
__________________
@A Protected Twenty-Seven Simple But Powerful Words
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03-10-2006, 08:24 PM
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#19
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Moore Means Quality
Trade:
General Carpentry
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lynnwood,WA
Posts: 1,739
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by logical
The word you are looking for is "you're"...not "your" which you have mis-used about 95 times.
I may or may not be as smart as a framer but my post (flame?) regarding your post was 100% correct. You were confused.
Take a lesson from V.P. Chaney. When you do or say something really stupid, stop talking and lay low for a few months.
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whoopy
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@A Protected Twenty-Seven Simple But Powerful Words
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03-10-2006, 08:25 PM
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#20
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Moore Means Quality
Trade:
General Carpentry
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lynnwood,WA
Posts: 1,739
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by JustaFramer
If it is so elementary then write a tutorial on the proper way to cut stairs.
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You have been called out.
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@A Protected Twenty-Seven Simple But Powerful Words
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