My House Set Up Personal Shop

POOLMANinCT

hi guys,

snow is on the ground, so I ve been having some fun, working in my house. (though it took about 2 days to fig out it matters how you place molding in the mitre saw!!!!)

anyway I think I want to keep going at it. so I'm hoping you can recommend some basic toys, or tricks on the wood & trim side of things. my plans are to do a bathroom & ornamental stuff throughout house.

anything plumbing & cement related I have.

so what should go iin the toybox?????

ray

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......Less with the jaw & More with the paw.....

dirt diggler

router & router bits

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Thanks in advance!!!

Bone Saw

sounds like you've got your mitersaw set up, this goes with mitersaws like peas go with carrots a rollerstand or two is a must have. also having dividers and scribes is a must have for doing finnish and trim work. and probably my personal favorite the planer, unless you are joining boards to make larger stock you can really do away with a joiner in lieu of a good hand power planer, makita my personal fave. having R & L circ saw with rip fences is a must have too.

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LNG24

Well,

You have the MITRE saw, but make sure you have the right blade for the Good Wood. More teeth the finer the cut.

Have some fun and learn to Cope...Coping Saw that is. Only used for inside corners though.

You can get real gaudy with moldings so more isn't better. Modeling should match the character of the room. In all cases though, layering gives the best results. Painted molding is easiest to work with as you can patch it and paint. Stained Molding must be Dead On! If your doing Crown, get yourself about 20% more than you need as you are just learning.

One thing I hate on all houses is that small Base Molding and Clam Shell Window and Door Molding. Changing that out to more ornamental moldings will raise the value of the house. Add some Plinth Blocks and Rosettes and your on your way.

Some decorative molding placed on a blank wall really makes it pop. Just a simple box is all that is needed. Also works great going up stairs , but angles are needed.

Pick yourself up a book on Molding and you will be amazed at what you can accomplish with minimal tools. A MITRE Saw, Coping Saw, Brad and Finish Nailer are all that is really required. Well maybe a table saw, but not usually. A Router, Never used one to install moldings, used it to make moldings.

Take some before and after pics. Oh, A helper will go a long way with this stuff. Also, Today they make all kinds of Mitreless Moldings. Great Results with minimal skill.

Now, to all you trim guys out there, don't take that the wrong way at all. Trim Work is a TRUE ART FORM, but a homeowner with basic skill and especially a contractor with the ability to have common sense, can easily upgrade the look in their home. When I do cabinet making or trim work for that matter, it is more about knowing what works together and having the patience to do it. We know that 90% of what we do is cut and dry. Straight, Plumb, Level, Tight Joints. Its the other 10% where the big bucks and real skill are!

POOLMANinCT

thanks guys, i confess i used cheater blocks on then corners... im sure ill catch flak, but it a hit....

what is happening to my one time bachelor pad?

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......Less with the jaw & More with the paw.....

wink

a really good level,at minimum, a water level<actually my personnal favorite> or one of them newfangled laser levels will be very helpful, allso a plumbbob, or laser that shoots plumb as well.also i really like titebondII woodglue,for all the joints were the grain runs in the same direction, except copes. i hope this helps ps LNG24 no offense taken, i can promise you two things i know for a fact, 1. there are guys and maybe some girls out there that our better than me and there always will be no matter how long i do this. 2. there are a hell of a lot of guys out there that can't hold a candle to me, this fact has been proven to me many times, the day i stop learning this job is the day i no longer do it

LNG24

Hey Wink,

I know of a few Trim Guys that would run circles around me, but give me a day with them or a good book on it and I can duplicate their work, just not as fast. I usually look at something then go back and figure out how it was done. What still blows me away are the little tricks of the trade that make a huge difference in your final product. Bars are a great example. Has to be the easist thing to construct, but when your done, its simply amazing.

This was my largest bar I did for a restaurtant.

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LNG24

If your wondering, thats simply 3/4" Oak Plywood, 1/4" Oak, 5/4 Oak, and Oak Stair Nose and Oak Flooring. Oh, also an expensive piece of Chicago Bar Rail around the top.

BigMikeB

I think you'll find luan plywood is mahogany.

LNG24

Yes, you are correct, I am just use to calling any 1/4" plywood Luna. It was either 1/4 or 3/8" Oak. I'd have to dig out my plans and material sheet to be sure. Not something you get at Home Depot or Lows.

Tom R

Really sharp bar, LNG, - - and great design . . .

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woodmagman

You could have two ratty saw horses and an old brick layer plank....
The shiney glass bottles behind the oak is what really makes the bar..

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woodmagman

Is Homeys Dteapot paying out $$$$$$ or are you putting something on the roof for Santa to bring.

wink

great job LNG, see poolman what you can end up putting in your home after a few years of trim, we all had to start somewhere.

POOLMANinCT

ty for the tips guys,

will not even dream of staining molding now, just paint. ty lng...

what's the protractor/angle thing you guys recommended for a mitre saw? isn't that built in to mitre saws???

ty

ray

btw woodmag, adjust your ascot? I hate when my smoking jacket does that too... man I was laughing when I read that one.

ray

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......Less with the jaw & More with the paw.....

firemike

You need the protractor to read the angles of the corners you are installing trim on. Contrary to popular belief, there are very few 90 degree corners in a house. Since you are painting, you have some fudge room though, caulk hides a multitude of sins (and loose cuts). You use the protractor to measure the angle, and generally set your miter saw to half that for your miter cuts.

There are a number of tips and tricks, a search here and with google will give you a ton of information. One quick tip, if you don't have something to measure the angle, take 2 pieces of 1x2 or 1x3 scrap a foot or so long, stack them and cut both at a 45 degree angle at the same time on the miter saw. That will give you a perfect 90 degree corner. Ths is providing you are doing 90 degree corners. This will work for practically any angle corner.

Test fit it to the corner you are working on. If it fits snug on both sides you're good to go. If it is too tight or loose you will have to adjust the angle a bit, which way will depend on whether your doing an outside or inside corner. Just note if you have to cut the inner corner ot outer corner and adjust the saw accordingly. I usually use 1/2 degree increments.

Once you adjust the saw, stack the pieces and cut them both at the same time again. Then test fit them again. If you adjusted the saw right, they should fit right, or at least fit better. You may have to do this two or three times, depending on how off the corner is. Once you have the pieces fitting perfectly, that is your saw setting for the actual molding. Use that same setting for one cut, and the same angle the other way for the second cut.

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LNG24

So lets see the progress pics!