Looking For Tips On Installing Interior Doors

mtheisen0814

Installing interior doors is not a difficult thing, but I was wondering if anyone has a tip, or special way of installing the doors that makes it fool proof or easier to install other than the traditional level method?

JustaFramer

I rarely ever level a doorframe. I flush to the sheet rock split the difference in the R.O. Shim it close the door and check the reveal. If the reveal is the same around the door. I nail it in.

With production made interior doors this is really level. but is close enough for me.

I am not anal retentive enough for that to make me kringe.

K2

Will, You made me kringe.

JustaFramer

lol. Except for steel door frames have I never had a production wood door frame built right. I am serious the stuff we get up here is crap. I have leveled and plumbed in doors and they have a nasty reveal.

Have had a couple high end doors that could be leveled in and get a nice reveal.

Other than building the jamb. I just keep the gap between door and the jamb equal and have never had a problem even when casing it.

I forgot to mention the I use a spreader to keep the bottom the right width.

K2

I plumb the hinge side only, make sure that the hinge jamb is square in the opening, (so th hinges are not "bound"), and follow the reveal around. Sometimes I have to cut the other jamb leg. .. Occasionally, rarely, the door might be warped..... Now some parts of the south they use those "split jambs" with the casing attached. They suck but that is another thread.

go do it

i never level pre-hung interior doors either.

just like framer said just work the reveal

i have tried leveling them before but if you don't build the door square the reveal will look awful

i shoot a nail at the top after it is centered in the opening so the door won't crash my head right away then work the door

JustaFramer

Other than the plumbing part we do it the same way. With the spreader in the bottom I am able to shim it and open and close the door to check for binding.

I had to cut a leg wonce in a retro fit the hole was so caddy wampus that was the only thing I could do. After I cut it and installed it I did kringe because it was on a snap floor. I could tell that one side was a half inch high. While casing it I almost convulsed.

house bldr

I nail 2 casing sides on the side of the jam that the door is flush with,set it in the hole(the casing will keep it from falling through)plumb the hinge side and shoot the casing on that side to hold it, then adjust the reveal on top and bottom by moving the latch side around and shooting it where it fits proper. Then shim from the other side so the panel fits the jam and is somewhat close to flush with the rock and shoot through the jam to hold it. Hang all the doors and come back later to finish trimming them. If there will be carpet around the doors you can slide a shim under the sides when setting the door in the hole and slide the latch side up or down to adjust the top reveal, avoiding having to cut a jam side off.

K2

I forget I'm from the days of hand nailing where everything had to be backed or shimmed. I use guns now but never changed my ways. I'll try it. Thanks!!!

SuperiorBuilt

I start with the hinge side first. After i have the door where it looks and operates perfect, I like to take out 2 screws from the top hinge, 1 for the middle and 1 from the both and replace them with 3'' screws. I have already placed shims behind the hinges when i was installing the door. This stops the door from shifting out of alignment over time. Then I install the moulding on both sides. I have not had any call backs (knock on wood).
Steve

Tom R

Install shims to plumb up the hinge side before even installing the door.

Then put your 4' level across the opening anyewhere near your 'eye level' and make a mark on the rock on each side. Measure down to the floor on each side, - - take the difference between the two measurements, - - and cut that amount off the the bottom of the 'shorter side' jamb. Denote your 'difference' from the TOP of your actual door jamb (not the bottom), - - because the factory may have made them different lengths.

Then install the hinge side secure to your plumbed frame, - - and shim the top and strike-side as you work the reveal.

Raising jambs for different finish floorings leaves too much room for error and throws the tops of the door casings out of line with each other (as in a hallway), - - let who's ever doing the floor cut the jambs, casings (and door if necessary).

dayspring

Now that is how it should be done

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troubleseeker

You don't have to plumb the hinge side, unless of course you have customers who like doors that creep open or closed by themselves..

Most of mine don't ,so the 30 seconds it takes to check for plumb is time well spent in my mind. Other that, that I set everything by eye to the reveal as said.