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08-09-2009, 06:30 PM
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#1
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finish carpenter
Trade:
finish Carpenter/ renovations
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: ns, canada
Posts: 612
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hand nails or 18 gauge staples, in cedar shingles
im currently working on a quote for a shed to be built, they want cedar shingles on it and im wondering if using a stapler does a decent job of fastening them, ive hand nailed nailed, and gun ring nailed them never stapled..
the job is out of the way for me and im willing to buy a stapler but not a ring nailer. feedback would be greatly appreciated
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cutting some wood
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08-09-2009, 08:55 PM
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#2
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Pro
Trade:
Deck Builder
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Austin, Tx.
Posts: 901
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The way the grain is most shingles I think nails would make them prone to split. On all the cedar shake gazebo roofs that I do they are stapled. Use a narrow crown stapler not a wide crown stapler & turn the pressure down some.
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08-09-2009, 08:59 PM
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#3
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---
Trade:
residential framing/general carpentry
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 3,600
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Ridgid has an 18 ga. stapler thats not bad, shoots up to 1 1/2" staples. I always use stainless steel. The staples hold very well, I use 2 per shake, regardless of width.
__________________
" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
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08-09-2009, 09:07 PM
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#4
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finish carpenter
Trade:
finish Carpenter/ renovations
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: ns, canada
Posts: 612
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cool thanks guys, working on a more detailed drawing from the clients original sketch... funny thing is they want shingles, board and batten and clapboards all in one. no problem hand nailing the clap boards, and gun nailing the b&b i have the guns for that,
anyhow. just a matter of doing the take off and the project being a go ahead
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cutting some wood
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08-09-2009, 11:28 PM
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#5
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Faking my Way
Trade:
Architectural Trim and Punchlist Work
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lebanon, NJ
Posts: 667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loneframer
Ridgid has an 18 ga. stapler thats not bad, shoots up to 1 1/2" staples. I always use stainless steel. The staples hold very well, I use 2 per shake, regardless of width.
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I have the Ridgid 18 gauge stapler and have had no problems with it.
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08-10-2009, 08:48 PM
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#6
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Pro
Trade:
Framing
Join Date: May 2009
Location: SI, NY
Posts: 435
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i've used both ring shank siding nails and crown staples. both do a fine job.
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08-11-2009, 12:26 AM
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#8
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Pro
Trade:
Renovations
Join Date: May 2005
Location: West Coast Canada
Posts: 1,673
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I've been stapling them for years never had a problem.
__________________
"Too much is always better than not enough"--J.R. "Bob" Dobbs
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08-11-2009, 06:19 AM
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#9
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Pro
Trade:
Construction Assistant Superintendant/Remodeler
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 1,141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deckman22
The way the grain is most shingles I think nails would make them prone to split. On all the cedar shake gazebo roofs that I do they are stapled. Use a narrow crown stapler not a wide crown stapler & turn the pressure down some.
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Out of curiosity why do you say narrow?
Do you find it gives more of a solid hold?
Only delt with 1 or 2 cedar shake siding jobs and used hand bangs (spiral shanks).
(worked for a GC and that's what they used)
Never heard of using staples.
I'm NOT debating the use of just stating my lack of experience with.
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08-11-2009, 07:49 AM
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#10
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Pro
Trade:
GC, Remodels, New Homes, Whatevers biting
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 453
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Was wondering about that myself. I'd guess that the wider the crown, the more likely the shake would be to split but thats just my guess.
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08-11-2009, 08:30 AM
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#11
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Pro
Trade:
Deck Builder
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Austin, Tx.
Posts: 901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtpro
Out of curiosity why do you say narrow?
Do you find it gives more of a solid hold?
Only delt with 1 or 2 cedar shake siding jobs and used hand bangs (spiral shanks).
(worked for a GC and that's what they used)
Never heard of using staples.
I'm NOT debating the use of just stating my lack of experience with.
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I used to have a roofing stapler (3/4" or 1" crown) that I used on one the first ones I did about 15-20 years & found it did not hold the shingles as well as what I call a decking stapler that has about a 1/2" crown. I've used a soffit stapler too with good result's.
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08-11-2009, 10:02 AM
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#12
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Pro
Trade:
Construction Assistant Superintendant/Remodeler
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 1,141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deckman22
I used to have a roofing stapler (3/4" or 1" crown) that I used on one the first ones I did about 15-20 years & found it did not hold the shingles as well as what I call a decking stapler that has about a 1/2" crown. I've used a soffit stapler too with good result's.
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Gotcha  Thanks
I was/am only familar with 1/2"or less so I was thinking you ment like a 1/4" as being the "small".  ( like in underlayment)
AGAIN I was sleeping in class the day the discussed diff. crown staplers! 
Last edited by jtpro; 08-11-2009 at 04:06 PM.
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08-11-2009, 08:24 PM
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#13
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Pro
Trade:
general contractor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: kansas
Posts: 233
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The wider crown limits where you can lay the shingles without exposing a staple in the expansion crack.
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08-11-2009, 09:10 PM
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#14
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---
Trade:
residential framing/general carpentry
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 3,600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtpro
Out of curiosity why do you say narrow?
Do you find it gives more of a solid hold?
Only delt with 1 or 2 cedar shake siding jobs and used hand bangs (spiral shanks).
(worked for a GC and that's what they used)
Never heard of using staples.
I'm NOT debating the use of just stating my lack of experience with.
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Narrow crown typically is 1/4", but Paslodes model is 3/16". The narrow crown holds very well and as someone else posted, gives a little more freedom when placing shakes for the next coarse.
__________________
" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
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08-11-2009, 09:13 PM
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#15
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finish carpenter
Trade:
finish Carpenter/ renovations
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: ns, canada
Posts: 612
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hmmm interesting, i had been hearing they curl and pull away, so if i get this project ill drop the coin and get a stapler.
ive used staplers for building my window jamb extension boxes with a stapler before, i found they are stronger than a pinner, screws work as well but slower and cost more. just a matter of seeing whats in my budget for how good a gun i get
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cutting some wood
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09-18-2009, 03:41 PM
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#16
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Member
Trade:
General construction
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 31
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Shake it streight
Anyone know the best jig to use when placing shakes up the wall?
I think I remember one guy using a simple board with maybe a piece of step flashing fastened on the ends.
It had another piece of strapping as a simple dam to insert a row of shingles before just using the staple gun to staple off that entire row.
He pushed the step flashing under the bottom of the last course. If I am thinking correctly, it is a way to keep each row locked in the next position 5,6,or so inches above the last.
And what about using a laser?
I want to be able to place a whole row of shakes in a trough or hold down strap and then staple that row, move up and keep them straight, and do it with some speed.
I know that's asking for a lot.
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09-18-2009, 05:14 PM
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#17
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Pro
Trade:
siding
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 1,861
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i usually just snap a line,then place the shingle to just cover it
i used an 18 ga stapler on cedar shingles once
i use 16 ga or stainless siding nails now
i just don't have the confidence that some do in them
too light gauge for exterior work IMO
cedar shingle bureau has the recommended fasteners listed
18 ga not listed as an acceptable fastener
__________________
Tom
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09-18-2009, 05:31 PM
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#18
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Carpenter
Trade:
custom homebuilding/remodeling/restoration
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Jamestown NY
Posts: 906
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I've never used a stapler...not to say I wouldn't. We've always handnailed.
The only advice I can offer is to make sure the shingles are squared and jointed to move along at a good pace. Even then, there's a lot of block plane work to keep your gaps even.
My method to stay straight is to snap a line, then nail a 1x ledger through the gaps with a 6 finish hand nail.
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"I knew I lost my wallet as soon as I threw my pants over the fence". -'lil jarhead bro when asking for a wire transfer...
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09-19-2009, 08:22 AM
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#19
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Member
Trade:
Exteriors
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Parksville B.C. Canada
Posts: 55
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I also snap a line with runner then run a string line at 1 inch above reveal mark which holds the course in and then nail the course off all at once. I have always used nails myself.
I would actually like to know how many guys do thier field work first and then do thier pitch work at the end on thier gables
I have always done my pitch work first then fill my field but I see alot of guys going the field first
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09-19-2009, 10:26 AM
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#20
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Member
Trade:
General construction
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 31
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Good advice guys
I just had a thought! (unusual yes) 
Use a piece of J channel on top of a length of strapping.
Think it would help?
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