Finishing Interior Of Pole Building Question

fishing41

I have a 42 x 60 pole barn in northern MN and making a finished garage/shop in 1/3 of it (27x42 with 11.5 walls). I have studded out the walls 24"oc and it's all wired, ready for insulation and have in-floor heat.

I'm wondering what would be the best interior material to use for the walls & ceiling. I was originally thinking of going with corrugated steel so I have a clean, bright surface that would repel water, snow, etc. However, I've never worked with steel and don't know how difficult it would be for outlet cutout, etc. I also don't know if it's very cost-efficient. Thought about using 4x12 chip board, going vertical to reduce seems. Not sure if chip board takes paint very well. Was going to avoid drywall due to temp changes & durability.

Any suggestions would be very appreciated.

PipeGuy

Why will the interior material be subjected to water, snow, etc.?

I'm converting my 20 x 14 open carport into a screened in patio. I used white, beaded, vinyl soffitt material to enclose the underside of the roof sheathing. It's maintenance free and looks pretty good. What about T-111 plywood for your walls? Not tall enough?

__________________
Fortunately I keep my feathers numbered for...for just such an emergency. -Foghorn Leghorn

fishing41

Not that I'm going to use it as a car wash, but in & out with various rec vehicles in all types of weather. I have a floor drain too. Would just prefer it to repel the water/weather a little.

T-111 is basically siding right? Thought about that. Never priced it, so not sure how expensive. Maybe the ridges would hide seems better?

Teetorbilt

I like the siding idea, paint it with exterior paint if it may see some rough use.

Mike Finley

How about something like Georgia Pacific DensArmor Plus or DensArmor abuse guard?

fishing41

I appreciate the suggestion, but my thoughts were that I should avoid drywall applications to avoid chipping/cracking from the temperature changes and possible humidity differences. Besides that, I'm not the greatest taper and it would take me several weekends!

gorty

i build pole barns for a living we use corrugated steel use f trim at the ceiling and walls its the pefect material for water and anything that gets on it about the electric part we put the steel on first then do the electric on the outside of the steel any electricial could give better hints than i could i also live in minnesota work with a very popular name dont wanna give out name of company if you need anything i could help you with the steel part it pretty easy do it right the first time chip board will eventually start to flake off
if you arent too far north i could probable come help or at least get you started let me know i check this every day or email me at gorty@charter.net
thanks scott

Crankshaft

Use "white" painted steel siding for ceiling & walls. Fully insulate or use spray foam. Then run all electrical, air lines, etc last in conduit on the surface. You can power wash this if it gets dirty or repaint in 25 years if it's too dull. My original 80' X 125' clear span shop was built in 1975. We may consider painting the interior this winter just to brighten it up.

Good luck,
Crankshaft

Dakota

We built three two stall pole garages this year in two we used steel inside and out and both customers were very happy. it took a little planning though where we placed the outlets and ect. did some measuring before hand and made sure that they would fall in the flat of the steel and not on a ridge. then placed water tight outdoor covers over them all. The third building we used a vinyl covered paneling, the kind you would use in a cheep shower installation. used vinyl stips on the seams and plastic buttons to cover the screws. This application worked fine and did the Job but the steel was definitly the way to go. For the windows we used synthetic deck boards for the returns so that they would be maintenance free and then used j molding.

Old Mudder

Just a my 2 cents worth .but 5/8 drywall and FRP is the best materal i 've found for that ap. hang the 5/8 backwards so you dont have to finish the dent and keep it about 1" off the concret so it won't get wet . The FRP just use real frp glue and the strips and you will never have to do more then use a scrub brush and tide on it. i'll warnyou right how frp is about $30.00 a sheat but like I sead just hose it off and thats it . and about steel put your head in a steel bucket and bang on it with a hammer see how long you want to work in that racket . steel don't hold heat drywall dose when it worms up it stays worm.and in the summer its just the opp. i've used this for cat napa john deer rebuild shops tool and die , paint booths . I don't use it in welding or grinding dep.thats were the steel go every thing has a place LOL . look into suspended ceiling and R30 ins. i don't know about you but i'm getting older so i like it worm . used to live in northern michigan gets colder then a whitches . well you know. good luck and thats just my app. :Thumbs:

bartov

insulat and cheap out! just put up crap panneling, it looks good and is easy 2 clean,and install. if u ever need 2 do wiring work its easy just pull down a sheet and it can b put back up