Filling In A Sunken Living Room

carlspackler

The sunken living room is about 20 feet by 18 feet. It's sunk about 8 inches. It's on the upper floor of a 2 story walkout so it's all wood and there is space below that I'm not looking to raise the ceiling on. I'm looking for some good methods for filling this in.

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MarQ Remodeling (no website)

Il Fissatore

Perhaps you could set some sort of support boards and then just board over the sunken area... I figure, 6 inch boards with the six inches vertical (like joists) with a 2 inch thick board, that should cover the 8 inches of sinkage... then you can either use a finished wood and make a wood floor, or carpet over ... Hell, maybe you can even make a lil door and use it for storage!

Just a thought

reveivl

Subtract subfloor and finish floor and set joists in @16" oc, block the ends and middle so they can't twist. Either rip the joists to the correct depth or shim them up so the heights work out.

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Peladu

20' x 18' x 8" = 8.89 cu yd.

Order 9 cubic yards of concrete and be done with it.

RobertCDF

I really hope he is joking... Being that there is a space below I highly doubt that the floor is rated for that kind of dead load.

I would use 2x8's and 3/4 T&G block the ends and center to keep them from rolling. You may need to rip the 2x8's a little bit depending upone your exact number and your new flooring.

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Robert Shaw
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reveivl

Hey, Robert that's what I would have said... Oh, wait, I did.

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RobertCDF

I know... I dont really know much so I copy and paste other posts and add a few more words. Then I look like I am smart.

I did not really read most of the posts... Just the first one so I knew what was going on. When I say pel's comment about the concrete I had to say something.

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TexasTimbers

Whatever you decide don't forget to rodent-proof it. Do not leave lethal bait as a strategy though. They will smell for a while if they get in and die there.
My suggestion is to do as what has been offered as to blocking but I would use a 1 1/8" T&G Sturdi Floor over the appropriate width joist. I would also use decking adhesive on everything to prevent squeaks from developing.
If you lay the joists flat on the sunken floor use adhesive there too. If you stand them off with shims/sleepers make sure to use adhesive on each shim top/bottom etc. When I say glue EVERYTHING I mean EVERYTHING.
The last hing you want is a call back because of a stinking squeak!

carlspackler

Excellent thoughts. Thank you.

Should I run the 2x6 or 2x8 the length of the floor or break them up with a cross joist in the middle? Does it really matter?

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Joe Carola

Carl,

Run them in one piece always if you can get the length. It's a better, straighter and easier job. One piece is always better then two and less work.

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Joe Carola

BULLHART

I'd joist it out with Some TJI's, deck it, then floor it.

Peladu

Use wire mesh, that way the concrete will not crumble away.

TexasTimbers

I'm a big fan of engineered joists, especially with LVL flanges (although sawn flanges are making an comeback for some reason), but I jost don't think for this small job it's justified if he is competing against other bids. They are going to lowball with cheap stick framing. Of course a good salesman, and we all must be to flourish, can use this as a seeling point, as customers today are savvy, and are not as intimidated by technology. they watch HGTV. I think HGTV is a great boon for us because an educated customer is the best kind. Weeds out alot of objections for us before we even get there.

BreyerConstruct

Thanks for the thought to smile about!

~Matt

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skymaster

Totally agree with Bullhart. At 18' extremely difficult to get "solid" anymore. TJI's dead flat,straight,full length. Their higher cost will be more than paid for in less labor, NO PROBLEMS 6 months later when solid goes wonky and twists up etc. Just pretend it is a deck inside the hole, perimeter band it, GLUE EM,GLUE EM, hang em, GLUE & SCREW ruff sheathing. Take ur money,smile, party.

JustaFramer

I think I would run the joist perpendicular to the existing.