Fence Mortise And Tenon

brentsid

Client wants a convex 4' wooden fence built on site with mortise and tenon joinery. Mortises in the 6x6 posts and tenons on the 10' horizontal 2x4 rails. Getting paid by the hour to do it his way. What is the easiest way to fabricate these joints in the field? Thinking of Drilling two holes through the posts and then cutting the rest of the mortise with sawzall. Tenons could be made on table saw or rabbit joiner but these 2x4 rails are 10' long and will be hard to work with, not to mention my shop is far from the jobsite. Looking for the easiest way before I try three other ways first if you know what I mean. need to build a heavy pergola the same way with no screws or nails--old school joinery techniques needed as the lags and bolts are out on this one. Thanks in advance.
Brent

Teetorbilt

Small chainsaw for everything. Lap just like in the old days. Be careful with the plunge cuts, take it slow. Still much faster than boring and however else you were planning to remove material.

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theworx

How are you going to deal with the setting of the posts??? I'm guessing you'll have to set them as you assemble the fence??? Wow thats labour intensive !!! To make the tenon I think I would mark the 2"x4" and use a router set to the proper depth to nibble away the material (at least that's what I would try first). For the mortise, if you have access to a drill press, pick up a motising bit and try that (since the posts aren't that long). Use a stand to help support the posts as you drill. Once again, just what I personally would look into first...

RobertCDF

I would look for someone I could sub the work to

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brentsid

Thanks for all the tips. I am going to try to explain to the client how much this is going to cost him for setting posts 1 by 1 and all the rest. Maybe I can find the post at least premortised or talk him into a fence kit or regular rails at least. Starting to dread this already, good thing I haven't signed off on it yet.

Nick H

I've put up a few fences with morticed rails and its no big deal, we can get the posts pre morticed and you can cut the tenons with a hand saw no problem, we are not exactlly talking cabinet grade work. You can set the first post in concrete, brace it with a couple of lengths of timber, slot the rails in (extra hands needed) put the next post in place, concrete and plumb it up, brace with timber etc etc etc .

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Teetorbilt

Setting the posts 1X1 is the most obvious detraction of the project.

Look into how the old fences were built. A loose system allows for airflow and drainage. Just go out and look at some old fences, it's not rocket science.

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You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

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Tscarborough

Why do you have to set the posts one by one?

J2Jonner

I believe that the problem is getting the 2x4 with a tenon on each end into the mortises on the now set posts.. I have been starting to draw up plans for a nice mortise and tenon fence along my sideline, so I'm interested to hear others takes on tenoning long stock. While I agree it's not quite cabinet grade conditions, I suspect a home-owner who requests it these days has a certain level of expectations with reguard to quality. I'd make sure you were on the same page at contract signing.

Cheers,

Jon

clampman

Ten feet is a long span to expect 2x4's to remain straight - especially outside and horizontal. Also, do not expect the 6 x 6's to remain square to each other. I think shouldered tennons will look worse after a year than non shouldered - since they will not remain tight. They will also rot faster than non shouldered ones.

He would be a hell of a lot better off with a cedar pole fence both for appearance and longevity. Plus, you can buy the thing as a package already mortised and tennoned if you like.

I used to build pole barns using cedar poles - which I notched and mortised and tennoned like Teetorbuilt - but using a large chainsaw instead of a small one. I don't like small chainsaws because your two hands are too close together and you don't have enough leverage to control kickbacks (which happen frequently when mortising).

For cutting tennons with a chainsaw, chisel tooth chains are not as good as the older type with the cutting tooth having a rounded top.

Good luck,

jimc

Teetorbilt

Whoops! Missed the 2X4X10 rails. Whos idea was this? Bad idea in my opinion, way too much span even for esthetics. Locust can do it but I wouldn't know where to find those sizes today

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You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

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wackman

What about a open mortice (3 sides)? Where your mortice isn't just a hole but a notch in the top and side of your posts.

You could then set all your posts like normal, after you've cut your mortices of course. You could side set your lower rails, glue and wedge em and then drop your upper rails in from the top, glue if you like and set your wedge. I'd probably put a cap on the post top to help with water and hide your upper mortice. I didn't catch if this is a rail only fence or if your'e also putting boards on but if you are putting fencing up it might hide you side mortice. If you make your mortices the same size as your 2x4 you won't have to cut tenons at all.

I've never done a morticed/tenoned fence and this might not be as strong, but it's just a thought...

Wack

Teetorbilt

wackman, 2X4X10 is strictly appearance. I can't think of a single thing that it would hold in including a 55 yr. old man on a dead run. My guess is that if I hit it on center, it wouldn't hurt too badly either.

I'd stick with the open mortise and tapered rail ends if you expect any longevity. I see 'Rot City' most any other way.

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You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

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