Done Messed Up.......

strathd

Went out there today and scratched my head and looked around. Local forecast called for 50% chance of rain so I did'nt dig into anything. And of course it did'nt rain.

The white area that I mentioned earlier is wasted, put my finger right through the osb. Above that spot the osb is solid. But the mold is still there. How far it goes up I do not know. At this point I think the main source of water intrusion is at the white spot. Or could it be coming down in between the log siding and the housewrap and pooling there to cause the rot. Meaning it's coming from above that area. It could very well be wind driven pooling on the deck and going behind the siding and over the short flashing.

The second pic (close up) is an area slightly above the right side speaker and porch light. There are 3 spots like this above the doors and below the upper windows. I walked the whole house and these are the only places where the finish (sikkens) is gone. Water wicking through ? I don't know. But this wall faces the south and gets the most exposure too.

I would really like to just start taking siding off and get to the bottom of this. The problem though is if I keep taking siding off some of it is going to get damaged. Sure I can order more siding but matching the stain ain't gonna happen not with it being 9 years old.

Tom Struble

everybody's ready to blame the tyvekit was stated the house wrap didn't cover the flashing leg,inadequate flashing or a reverse lap is where you will find the trouble here

that log siding was originally used on vacation cabins around here and it was the outside siding and interior wall finish properly lapped its water resistant

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Tom

nEighter

yep got yourself a nice lil puzzle there. Keep us updated and with pics too.

Birch

What I might do,

The longer it stays exposed the worse things are likely to get. I don’t see any horrible structural damage. You need to get it covered back up asap.

I’d remove the siding between the doors and peel the tyvek back to expose the OSB. Pull the doors, Pull the bottom piece on each side of the doors trying to not damage the tyvek. Flash the deck ledger top with ‘L’ flashing making sure the tyvek is properly lapped. Bend flashing under thresholds and silicone seal them very well. Paint w/Kilz or replace the stained OSB, House wrap, tar paper over that at trouble areas, and reinstall everthing.

This will probable fix the moisture intrusion issues and I would at least try this first. Give the customer your assurance that if the problem resurfaces you will fix it again. I would then send the photos you have taken to tyvek and the log siding manufacturer’s representatives for their advice on how to avoid this in the future. The deck attachment may be beyond their expertise.

I think better flashing at the ledger top (not narrow step flashing), house wrap covered with tarpaper shedding over the flashing, increasing the step under the thresholds (lower the deck 1.5” to 2”), and lift the siding off the deck 1”, are the practices to change to improve the integrity of your deck attachment assemblies.

That is how I do them and I’ve never had an issue.

Also, like I said before, I generally don’t use the ledger method to attach decks to new constructions except on slabs. I hope there isn’t structural rot unseen behind the deck ledger. Best of Luck, Rock on.

catawba

I was wondering,just out of curiosity,if that is visqueen ,poly, between sheetrock and stud wall ? If it is I know down south thats a no no ,because it does'nt let the house breathe and causes moisture problems.

WarnerConstInc.

Above the Mason Dixson line, they want that.

WarnerConstInc.

It's funneling down between the doors. That is the weak spot. Obviously the doors were installed fine. You just have a funnel there, and it spreads out below.

catawba

Thank's Warner, was'nt sure ,hence the question. I was'nt inferring that it was the cause,just wondering if it was SOP.

jkfox624

That looks very similar to the can of worms i opened today. Didnt have camera with me but it was a screened door at the end of a hay loft in a horse barn. It just looked like side casing was rotten she wanted us to replace when we were patching the siding on that side from the addition. Started pealing cedar siding off and there was nothing there, 4 2x10x12 header for the doors at the end of the barn were gone, jamb gone. Start cutting it out and realize it was rotten all behind the casings on the upper door. Ive seen alot of rot but this was a wierd kind all the wood looked fine til you got to the backside of it then it just fell apart.

They didnt have any of the openings flashed just typar but after 12 years i wouldnt expected it to be that bad. I can understand the header gone though, weather end of building and it was just a 1x4 cedar board covering the end of cdx plywood. It really opened everyones eyes why i get on everyone to flash things properly. I cant really understand what they were thinking either, its an 8" siding with 6" coverage, no dry flashing behind laps. They slapped some caulk in a few bigger gaps but all the rain is gonna suck through the crack and run right down the wall.

finelines

find somebody with this:

fluke tir1

samccard

It does not look lke there is any flashing above the doors or windows water could be getting in around those and running down as well.

oldfrt

That log siding is a pita to waterproof./

We did a project last year and because of the fear of intrusion we furred around the windows out to flush with the surface of the siding with 2" strips.
Then we used 3 1/2" pine to case the windows,extending past the siding/furring joint.Same on the outside corners.

We Z-flashed the tops of the windows across the 3 1/2" so the flashing would divert the water over the siding,away from the joint.

The windows were also furred out 1" over the sheathing so they wouldn't appear too deep and so the sill trim would be inside the window's (Andersen Clad) bottom edge.

All windows were also flashed w/Tite-Seal and the bottom edges ranover the top of the siding under the trim.

It was a ton of work,but probably will be worth it,especially with the window wall in this pic.which is bound to nget driving rain as it faces SW.

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Rickle

Ends and joints were not caulked.

Rickle

Just look a closer look at some of the pics and it does look like the ends were caulked. The one close up of the joint shows no caulk.

Personally I think it's a caulk and maintenance issue.

Tom Struble

caulk? if your relying on caulk to stop that kind for damage theres something wrong

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Tom

trimchiree

a theroy: water dripping down the 2 large windows above the doors finds its way behind the bottom 1x window casing, runs under siding/OVER tyvek until it hits that reversed deck flashing where it makes its way behind the tyvek

hmm idk, might be more damage to the door casings if it were the case though

samccard

Did we ever hear how this was issue was resolved?