Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45

 
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Old 05-07-2009, 09:36 PM   #21
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Re: Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45


In the 40+ years I've been around homne building around here, I've never seen a center stringer, nor do I see the need. If the side stringers are fastened to the studs, & everything is glued, & nailed properly, the center one is just not needed.

I think they are a caryover from many years past, prior to good contruction adhesives.
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Old 05-14-2009, 05:14 PM   #22
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Re: Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45


the crack in the risers is naturally occuring in the pine center cut boards. there is a lot of tension in the heartwood of pine and as it dries it cracks often, like concrete.avoid using heartwood for finish work if possible! i have a mill and have been sawing lumber for 30 years now and using it in many of my projects.
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Old 05-14-2009, 05:36 PM   #23
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Re: Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45


In this region, many builders order stairs through the local lumber distributor, they rarely have more than 5/4x12 SYP boxed stringers and risers/treads with glue blocks. The stringers are dadoed to receive risers and treads, and are glued shimmed tight and stapled together. Framers are rarely required to set stairs, it either falls on the trim crew or a stair specialist. In some cases they will have triangular glue blocks that are waste from open stringer designs. We always beef these up on site with underframing that also serves as drywall nailers.
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:07 PM   #24
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Re: Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45


Hmmm....interesting how things are done differently.

I've ALWAYS used three stringers, one center. 2 X 12 SYP or Doug Fir. Add a stongback 2 X 4 to bottom after cutout. (each one) Outside stringers have the 2 X 4 against the stud wall for spacing of drywall and skirt boards to fit down past the stringer. Treads are then cut and spaced 1/4" short of each side to eliminate one more squeak point. (Carpeted)

These stairs are open rail on one side, so I would have built that side's stringer without the 2 X 4 stongback and frame up to it from underneath for support.

Here's one I did....outside finish skirt is 45'd to accept risers. Drywall ran over the stringer, Finish skirt went over the drywall, treads and risers around / to that.





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Old 05-23-2009, 09:34 AM   #25
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Re: Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45


We never rebuild interior stairs, just a phone call to a stair builder and its made, delivered and installed. They even put the rails on. If I did all this the price would be off the charts so sub it out add m&p and it's done. I know my limits of what I can make money at, interior stairs are not on that list.
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Old 05-23-2009, 01:27 PM   #26
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Re: Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45


Quote:
Originally Posted by HSConstruction View Post
We never rebuild interior stairs, just a phone call to a stair builder and its made, delivered and installed. They even put the rails on. If I did all this the price would be off the charts so sub it out add m&p and it's done. I know my limits of what I can make money at, interior stairs are not on that list.
I'm not to far from you and I can't believe all the building and extra framing that goes into these stairs in different Regions when they can have a set of stairs made out of pine that will stand forever. After the framers are done the trimmers have to come back and finish them. The cost to frame them and trim them has to be alot more money.
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:31 AM   #27
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Re: Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45


I am preparing to do a job like this (refacing stairs) for someone locally. Never done a stair refacing job before. Installs, yes, but not refacing. Appreciate it if you could give me an idea of how you quoted it. Purely hourly or something else? Checked contractors labor reference guides but can't find it there. Any input would be a great help...
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