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#21 |
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Pro
Trade: Railing
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 700
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Re: Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45
In the 40+ years I've been around homne building around here, I've never seen a center stringer, nor do I see the need. If the side stringers are fastened to the studs, & everything is glued, & nailed properly, the center one is just not needed.
I think they are a caryover from many years past, prior to good contruction adhesives. Joe |
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#22 |
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Member
Trade: building
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 97
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Re: Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45
the crack in the risers is naturally occuring in the pine center cut boards. there is a lot of tension in the heartwood of pine and as it dries it cracks often, like concrete.avoid using heartwood for finish work if possible! i have a mill and have been sawing lumber for 30 years now and using it in many of my projects.
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#23 |
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KemoSabe
Trade: residential framing/siding/general carpentry
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Vineland, New Jersey
Posts: 12,829
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Re: Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45
In this region, many builders order stairs through the local lumber distributor, they rarely have more than 5/4x12 SYP boxed stringers and risers/treads with glue blocks. The stringers are dadoed to receive risers and treads, and are glued shimmed tight and stapled together. Framers are rarely required to set stairs, it either falls on the trim crew or a stair specialist. In some cases they will have triangular glue blocks that are waste from open stringer designs.
We always beef these up on site with underframing that also serves as drywall nailers.
__________________
__________________________________ "Walking the fine line between production and perfection" __________________________________ |
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#24 |
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Pro
Trade: GC Residential / Light Commercial
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Southwest Michigan
Posts: 133
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Re: Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45
Hmmm....interesting how things are done differently.
I've ALWAYS used three stringers, one center. 2 X 12 SYP or Doug Fir. Add a stongback 2 X 4 to bottom after cutout. (each one) Outside stringers have the 2 X 4 against the stud wall for spacing of drywall and skirt boards to fit down past the stringer. Treads are then cut and spaced 1/4" short of each side to eliminate one more squeak point. (Carpeted) These stairs are open rail on one side, so I would have built that side's stringer without the 2 X 4 stongback and frame up to it from underneath for support. Here's one I did....outside finish skirt is 45'd to accept risers. Drywall ran over the stringer, Finish skirt went over the drywall, treads and risers around / to that. ![]() ![]()
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#25 |
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Pro
Trade: Remodeler
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: NW NJ
Posts: 416
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Re: Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45
We never rebuild interior stairs, just a phone call to a stair builder and its made, delivered and installed. They even put the rails on. If I did all this the price would be off the charts so sub it out add m&p and it's done. I know my limits of what I can make money at, interior stairs are not on that list.
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#26 | |
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Pro
Trade: Framing Contractor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Caldwell, New Jersey
Posts: 1,541
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Re: Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45Quote:
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Joe Carola |
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#27 |
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Choirboy
Trade: Cabinetmaker/Finish Carpenter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sterling Heights, MI
Posts: 1
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Re: Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45
I am preparing to do a job like this (refacing stairs) for someone locally. Never done a stair refacing job before. Installs, yes, but not refacing. Appreciate it if you could give me an idea of how you quoted it. Purely hourly or something else? Checked contractors labor reference guides but can't find it there. Any input would be a great help...
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