Cutting Stair Treads With Return 45

nywoodwizard

Just wondering how you guys cut your stair treads with the 45 degree returns ? Like the ones below. I had a bunch to make and the only way i thought to make the 45's consistant, in angle and length was to make a quick jig. The straight cuts i did on the miter saw . I cut the 45 on the tread upside down so i could get right to the corner then just finish the straight cut with a jig saw.

Its the first time i've actually had to make these style treads i'm refacing an existing set of stairs, treads were painted, a few cracks and risers are cracking. They want the new ones to match the new oak floor. The stairs are only about 4-5 years old and awfully creaky, the weird part is the risers are pine and there are cracks appearing vertically, not with the grain, so those will also be replaced. Stringers are in great shape so those will stay.

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neolitic

Looks like nice work,
but you can buy them, left,
right, or double ended nosing.
Vertical cracks?
Cross grain?
Something must be moving...
a lot.

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neolitic

Got pix of stringers?
Post a sketch?
Something must be wrong.
Creaks and cracks, 5 years old?

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nywoodwizard

I'll try to get some more pics tomorrow. It has one stringer and one closed and some pie cut treads at the bottom, I installed theses stairs,and let me tell you its secured on every stud it passes, both sides are secure to the walls very well, it may have something to do with bad lumber on the risers.
The stringers are made of poplar,the treads are oak. I have a feeling the original treads and risers were not secured that well, a lot of the underneath tread and riser shims loosened up a bit, i would assume these should be glued in.

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neolitic

I believe in PL to stop the squeak.
Tread and riser.

Whoa!
Poplar stringers?
The center one too?
Poplar isn't particularly stiff.
I'd never consider that structural.
At least not a 2X.
Maybe sister in a couple of YP's
on the center stringer?

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Leo G

The way that I was taught to do them was on the tablesaw. Put the blade at 45* and set it up so the cut is the correct height. Then using a miter gauge with a tall back piece you push it through vertically. The second step is to put it face down and set up a few stops. You need to stop at the intersection of the 45*. You finish it up with a jigsaw.

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nywoodwizard

Here's a few pic of the stairs and cracks in the risers, around 4-5 risers have these cracks. Theres 1/8"-1/4" gaps between the risers and treads. Risers are pine, stringers are poplar and the treads were oak. Expansion and contraction between the three different species may be a factor in the creaking. Glue may have failed, not enough fastners securing the treads and risers,who knows .

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WNYcarpenter

Are the stairs spungy?...from the pics, it looks like the center stringer isn't supporting the live load and the risers are taking the beating.

neolitic

What I can see doesn't look like
stress cracks, more like seasoning issues.
Is there a center stringer?
Hard to tell what I'm looking at in the second pic.
Are the glue blocks intended to replace
the third stringer?

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nywoodwizard

No center stringer, at 36" wide, it could use one. When i look at the glue blocks i laugh, there pointless, well maybe not ,those cracked risers would of been split in half with a boot and sent to the cellar by now.

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neolitic

They will continue to have squeaks
and other problems until you
put in a center stringer!
SYP.
Open it up, mark a 2X12 off existing
cut it, put it in.
It's all a wasted excersise if you don't.

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silvertree

Yeah, install a center stringer, if thats too difficult get a good fir 2x6, set that in place and glue and screw in some stair blocks. I wonder about the different woods contributing to the problem. I redid some stairs in an older home that were 42 wide with 2 stringers, and the stairs tilted to the inside wall. I sistered new stringers on each end and cut a new stringer for the center that I built up with stair blocks. The underside of the stairs were finished plaster so I couldn't reframe. I always glue my stairs. Some poor kid 100 years from now will get hired to redo something I did and spend a hard day demoing my stairway.

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philner

Just my 2 cents but I'd use a glu lam for the stringer. I swear by them unless it's a REAL budget job. No deflection,nice and staight, the way to go in my opinion. phil

silvertree

Never thought of that my self, good tip.

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neolitic

HEY! Wiz
What did you do??

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In_Mexifornia

I get em from LJ Smith

http://www.ljsmith.com/
Tread and Risers: http://www.ljsmith.com/pdfs/11Steps_Treads_Risers_BendRail_WallRail.pdf

gsd0519

I have very noisy stairs.
They are housed stringers and i have access from below.
I tried tightening the shims.
I put in full length support blocks int he corners, but they are still really noisy.
Also too don't have a center stringer. I am hesitant to take on the job of making a new stringer to fit the middle.

What was this glue lam? Is that sistering a tread underneath?

thanks!
Greg

mmike032

how can you get by without a middle stringer?
I've always been under the impression you have to have a stringer every 16"s
code where you are doesnt require this?

Kgmz

Who originally did these stairs?

Scary looking with no center stringer, non code winders, and was there ever any railing. I don't see a spot for a newel post to support any railing.

Always a center stringer for stairs 3' wide, and we put two for 4' stairs 12" apart.

neolitic

He was only there to replace treads.
He didn't build the thing.

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