Cutting 12" Round Timber

rsss396375

I have a deck job where there are three 12" wide pier posts used to hold up a deck. I need to cut off those 12" wide piers posts to make them level. The problem I am trying to conquer is cutting the piers plumb and level, so I can mount a Simpson saddle bracket to support the beam. Has anyone cut these types of round timbers before? I'm at a loss as what tool to use, other then a simple level.

curapa

I would suggest scribing a level line on them and making a pass with the circ saw and then finishing them up with the sawzaw.

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reveivl

Screw a piece of plywood larger than the post to the top with appropriate shims so it is level. Then scribe a line off the ply. Then cut it off with a chainsaw. If you are concerned about blow out (aesthetic) then run your circ saw around the line first.

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KentWhitten

I don't know how relevant this will be, but for marking round things, a long piece of paper or tyvek wrapped around the log can help keep it somewhat square. Not sure how knobby your logs are or if it's smooth.

Chainsaw is about your best bet. Careful hands can do it no problem.

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CrpntrFrk

This is what I would suggest also! When I worked for a excavating/plumbing company this is how we would mark very large pipe to cut.

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Renegade 1 LI

If the posts are round & true like a pipe make a marking gauge out of a length of metal flashing, wrap it around the post on your mark & overlap it. Scribe along the flashing on your mark & then cut it as deep as you can with a circular saw & finish with a sawzall or hand saw. You can also buy pipe wrap at a plumbing supply house if you don't have any flashing.

rsss396375

good ideas......i'm also facing a plumb issue. The posts which are approx. 25' in the air, are almost 5 degress out at its tallets point. Again, I appreciate the help. I think the scrib and skill saw cut then a saws-all or chainsaw will be the best. Thanks for all the help. Ill let everyone know if it works.

Renegade 1 LI

On tapered material try & work off center line, put an offset to center & measure back.

catspaw

i use a piece of tape wrapped around the log !

Blackhammer

Chainsaw. Had to cut 76, 8"x8" PT posts at 10' above the ground. We were building Picnic shelters for the parks dept. The posts were 8"x8" with custom saddles on them and the tie beam was also 8x8. Used a Stihl and worked great.

rsss396375

Once I have made my horizontal cuts and the posts are all level with each other, there are three all together. My next issue will be mounting some sort of column cap to the top of the 12" post in order to carry the beam. Since it's not the traditional 4x4-6x6 post scenerio, I will need to mount the downward straps of the Simspon 7 ga. column caps. Simpson does not make 12" wide straps to their cap, so I will either need to fabricate column caps with the straps on the outside of the posts (traditional)....or I am researching the viability of doing this.....
On the middle post, I will use the standard Simpson heavy duty CC66. In order for me to mount the downward straps which are about 5 1/2" apart, I am thinking of making two plunge cuts the width of the straps into the top of the posts and drop the straps inside the post with a liberal amount of silicone. I can then predrill and mount a couple of SDS screws to the bottom of the stirup in order to reduce uplift. I am thinking any side-to-side movement should be eliminated.
On the outside posts, I will set end column caps, make one plunge cut in the post and mount the exterior strap of the column cap to the outside of the post with SDS's.
Many of you have worked around this problem in the past and I apprecaite the help on this one.

rsss396375

After reading my last post, you may be saying WTF is he talking about. But I apprecaite the adivce to this point.

A W Smith

why not screw or bolt a pair of level cleats on the front face and the back face of the posts and use them as your chainsaw bar guide? we did this on a small scale when we had to lop the tops off 7 inch round cedar deck posts.

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rsss396375

We are going to plumb the posts first and determine level with all 3 of the posts. Then determine our height based on the fall for the deck, since this is on the outer edge of the deck. I'll use some butyl tape and wrap it all the way around the post so we have a consistant mark to work with. I appreciate all the help and we shall see.

rsss396375

I cut the posts yesterday with a high level of sucess. I ended up finding the plumb point and made a mark. Then we nailed 2x6's level on three sides with the mark and used the top of the lumber as a benchmark. Made a pass on either side with a chainsaw and it came out fine.
Thanks for all the suggestions. The plunge cuts I used to drop the stirups in for the Simpson brackets also worked well and we were able to get the 2x12 beams up and in with no problem.

Burby

The plumb issue is the same as building a house on pilings.
Plumb & brace your first post, then pull measurements on each additional one to the center line of each post to help ensure accuracy, a come-a-long & cable, or chain to pull each additional post & brace until you bolt you band beam on & frame & deck it in.
Once the 1st post is braced off right, the rest go easy.

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Burby

There is a nice chainsaw attachment that goes on a worm drive skill saw. It really does work well for large columns as you described. I purchased my attatchment back in 1991 I believe and still works well when needed. (not that it gets much use now a days, but when many frowned on seeing a contractor pull out a chain saw, it was nice to have) And besides it was another "New" tool, just to buy, regardless of the use it would get. haha
Some rental stores still rent the large skill saws as well, I believe 15 inch skill saw.
I use to have a couple of them years ago, a 13 & a 15" & I believe I still have one burried in all my tools. They are great for post & beams a like.
But, nothing is faster than a good sharp chainsaw.

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