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Old 07-29-2009, 09:57 PM   #1
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curved stairs

Can anyone tell me the method for framing a curved saircase and the rake wall that supports the rail and ballusters. Or at least the math required, or even an article on it. I've framed alot of stairs but never a curved set. I just cant seem to grasp it. Am I just an idiot or is this as hard as I think it is?

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Old 07-30-2009, 04:41 AM   #2
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SA, It depends on the situation. I had never done one for 20 years and then I finally did a couple. Sam another carpenter doing a set once and got some pointers from him. If you have the radius wall to go against it makes it much easier. Not much to say about the math since each tread will be the same, just a series of wedges. Do a search here and see if you find any info. I know there are pics as I have posted some myself.
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Old 07-30-2009, 05:29 AM   #3
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I scanned an article out of a book I have that explains how to build and layout curved stairs. If someone can tell me how to get them from my scans to my pics I will be able to upload them. Been trying to do this for a half hour.

If not I will take pics of them and post them in a while.
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Old 07-30-2009, 01:49 PM   #4
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Have'nt had the opportunity to build one yet. Does'nt look to tough though. It's all about establishing the radius and the layout on the floor.
curved-stairs-001-4.jpg

curved-stairs-002-3.jpg

curved-stairs-003-4.jpg
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:11 PM   #5
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How would you make the inside stringer if it was to be self supporting
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAcarpenter View Post
How would you make the inside stringer if it was to be self supporting
The third pic gives a generalization. Maybe you ought to read it again ?
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:37 PM   #7
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there are several factors to consider building these sets. I never framed one out because all our stairs are shop-built, but I've laid them out many times.

Usually you're somewhere between a 7' and an 8' radius. Could be a much greater radius, but usually not shallower because of the tread requirements and aesthetics. On a tight radius, keeping the inside tread at a minimum of 6", your outside tread will become very deep and unsightly.

So. See what radius works best for the number of treads and the room that you have. Pin your point and scribe the outside and inside stringers. Take the circumference of either one and split that up into the number of treads you have. Snap all your tread lines back to your pin point. Then it's just a matter of cutting pieces.

As far as structural stringers go, it's a laminating process. You have to rig a temp wall, set your tread points on it and then laminate the stringer wild and cut plumb and level once it sets. Pain in the neck to do in the field, but if I ever get enough $ for one I'd love to give it a shot. You can build up girth with 1/4" ply to whatever you feel comfortable with given the number of treads. Shops usually give us a 2"x12" lam stringer for a 10' tall stair.

It's as time consuming affair as anything you don't do every day, that's why it pays to farm this type of stuff out to stair shops. They're geared up with all the widgets and movable walls and CAD sheets.
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