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#1 |
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Registered User
Trade: General Contractor
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Hayden Colorado
Posts: 2
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Converting Carpeted Stairs To Hardwood "framed" Center Runners
I have recently completed retrofitting an existing set of carpeted stairs to hardwood "framed" stairs (cherry treads and risers at outsides, with carpet runner in same plane in center). After much discussion between myself, other finish carpenters, carpet installers, designer, and home owner, we did the best we could.
All said and done, sides of the bull nose remain exposed after the carpet was installed. The home owner and designer are less then thrilled and we can't begin to figure out how to get everything to line up. Either the edge of the carpet or the edge of the nose will be exposed. Anyone have experience with this dilemma? |
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#2 |
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Pro
Trade: GC
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 186
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Re: Converting Carpeted Stairs To Hardwood "framed" Center Runners
I've never seen one with the carpet inlet into the tread but imagine you need to inlet the bullnose in the same manner.
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#3 |
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ROLe.
Trade: Custom Curved Stair Builder
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 6
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Re: Converting Carpeted Stairs To Hardwood "framed" Center Runners
I assume you are using particle board treads for the center runner and false treadcaps and risers. Usually the particle board tread and the false treadcap nosing are 1 1/8" thick. What you have to do is build up under the false tread cap (Because the piece of flat stock that is attached to the treadcap nosing is only 7/16 of an inch thick) so it flushes out with the top of the particle board tread and the front of the nosing. The same goes for the carpeted riser and the false riser.
That means you have to end the carpeted tread and riser where the false treadcap and riser starts. If you don't have a double jack where you have to make the splice you will have to straddle 2x4's between the center jack and the outside jack. Once that has been accomplished adhere your moldings under the treadcaps. Because the moldings that are supplied with the treadcaps are only so long, purchase some cheap hem/fir moldings that are close to the same shape and continue on with them under the particle board tread. The reason is once you have carpeted the treads the lump under the carpet is consistent with the applied moldings under the treadcaps. The secret is to have the Carpet Layer nap the carpet over the tread cap by one inch so it gives the illusion that the tread is a solid piece of wood all the way across. Hope this helps? You can find out more about me if you go to my profile page or google thestairguy on the web. I've got more pictures of my work and some write ups. Good luck and if you have more questions email me. ROLe The Stairguy.
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