Combination Wood/steel Header

makeover guy

Hey guys...
tried searching for this first but nothing.

I have to have a header to support a plywood/shingle roof. Header not exceeding 4" deep, yet must span a 10' opening. I suppose the only way is all steel beam or steel/wood combination. I found 3.5"x1/4" steel plate any length that I can sandwich between two 2x4s and still achive a near 4x4 configuration. Is there any other way?

My problem is I need to provide load bearing specs for such a combination in order to get my drawings approved. Anybody know how to calculate this or where I can go to look this up? I looked on the simpson site but I dont see any steel this heavy in their product line.

mdshunk

Yep, you need to fork over the couple hundred bucks to the engineer who'll provide those for you. Even if you submit what you proport to be load bearing data on such a flitch beam, they likely won't buy it unless it's got an engineer's seal on it. A little light reading on the calculations involved might interest you: http://www.structures.tcaup.umich.ed...CH324_ch12.pdf

The span tables for common flitch beams don't even go as low as 2x4. I think that's wishful thinking. They start at 2x8. Those tables are here: http://www.toolbase.org/PDF/DesignGu...litchplate.pdf

jmic

4" flitch to span 10 ', roof load. Any snow load, don't know where you're located. I'm with MD, sounds like wishful thinking.

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Joe

Joe Carola

Is this going under double top plates?

If so, you can cut the top plates out and gain 3".

I've used a product called "Better Header" that makes up any length you want from 2x6 and up with a flitch plate in between 2x's and lvl's engineered to fit what you need. You give them the span and the load above and they'll tell you what size you need or your own Architect should tell you.

They make up a 1" flitch plate that's 5-1/2" in height in between 2xx6's or lvl's.

I'll give you the link and then click on Beam Legend and see what they have. They even have I-beams. What's great about these is that they come already done with flush bolts.


http://betterheader.com/default.asp

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Joe Carola

makeover guy

all good...thanks guys

No snow load required, single story house. I'll check that link.

No double top plate. My situation is this is a room extension add-on and my roof slope runs out at the proposed header that replaces 10ft of exterior wall. Old house, low ceilings, low roof pitch. I am limited to a flat roof for the addition and local codes require the addition to be free standing unattached, so I need a header on both sides of the opening. The customer wants a smooth interior ceiling without a header protruding in the middle of the room.

Joe Carola

The only thing you can do as you know is find something that small that will work. Have it engineered. Homeowners can't always get what they want. If you can't find something that's 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" that will work, you have no choice but to have a dropped beam in their.


If you can't get something that small to work and they definitely want the bottom of the beam flush, can you cut the rafters back 3-1/2" and put a flush beam that's bigger to accommodate the load and then hang the rafters on joist hangers? I' do this all the time.

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Joe Carola

Tom R

As usual, - - great stuff, Joe.

The only other thing I can think of to gain any 'overhead bearing' is, - - cutting back the rafters into a header sitting on top of 'interior pilasters' at each end of the opening??

Hey, - - I'm trying . . .

Joe Carola

Tom,

I here ya. If people want what they want and there's a way, I will go all out to figure a way if it will work and a beam can be sized. Doing what I described above will work with temp walls and messy plaster, hangers, but in the end result they'll get what they wanted. At a price or course.

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Joe Carola

house bldr

I don't know the specifics of your room or how the trusses are designed but could you slip a beam of adaquate size inside the trusses between the top and bottom cords{basically cantilevering the last couple feet}. Its a bit unorthodox but can work given the right circumstances.{may have to open part of a gable end up to get the beam in}

joasis

I have used I-Beams several times in challenging situations...and the loads on a say, 4 inch standard 4 lb beam will carry a pretty hefty load...just food for thought. I think Joe nailed this one down tight.

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