Caulking Replacement Windows

Lone Wrencher

I installed my first vinyl replacement window recently. Everything went well, but I have one nagging concern. I caulked the inside of the blind stops before I installed the window, and I also caulked on the outside of the window (sides and top only).

Following the advice of a contractor on a jobsite (I'm a plumber), I didn't run a bead of caulk along the bottom of the replacement window (where the plastic sill angle meets the old wooden sill). His concern was that water might get trapped in there and have no where to run out, possibly rotting the wooden sill eventually.

His advice seemed to make sense to me, and I didn't see any weep holes in the bottom of the replacement window. Then again, I'm not a carpenter, so I'd like to hear some other expert opinions.

Thanks,

Ken

GMW

I just read the directions that come with the brand I usually install. It says to install the sill angle and then caulk it. It also says to caulk the entire perimeter of the window. Water should not be getting under the window itself. There should be weep holes on the sill of the replacement window however.
Just curious didn't yours come with instructions?

GMW

By the way I do caulk all the way around. I was quoting directions just to make sure I had been doing it right! I just happened to have a window here that had directions stuck to it. Are you able to go back and caulk or is the job done?

HLCbuild

Guys,
Are you installing these windows from the inside?

GMW

Yes.

HLCbuild

the reason I ask is that we do it from the outside. We pull the blind stops, stick the window in from the outside (actually we lean thru the opening and pull it back to us) until it is tight against the inside stop moulding. Install your screws thru the vinyl jambs and caulk the inside.No fuss...no muss...on the inside. Then we cap the outside with coil bent to cover the brick mould and extended in past the new vinyl window. Caulk the outside and you are done. No need to install new mouldings or to paint. And it gives you a maintanence-free exterior.

Lone Wrencher

The window did come with directions, which advised caulking around the outside, but it didn't specifically mention whether the bottom should be caulked or not. Fortunately, I am able to go back to the job (my mother's house!) to recaulk.

Lone Wrencher

That's a great idea!

JustaFramer

Due to leaky windows the proper install of a window is to: 1. Use Moist Stop three sides bottom first two sides next over lapping the bottom. 2. Caulk the flange. 3. Install 4. Moist stop the top to over lap the flange.
If these steps are not taken I guarentee a leaky window over time.

HLCbuild

Justaframer,
These are vinyl replacement windows we are dealing with, not prime windows. I agree that you need to use Moist Stop or we use a product made by Dupont that does the same thing. It is required by code here. But the replacement windows fit into the existing wood jambs of a double hung window. They go in without flanges.

QHE

We install replacements from the inside. I am interested in installing them from the outside and re-trimming. How difficult is it to pull the blind stops? How long does the install typically take? How much longer than pulling the inside stops? Thank you in advance for your reply.

paul100

How do you pull the blind stops? Do you cut them off? Do you add new stops before you cap the windows. I do most of our work in Phila, PA and I have only seen removable stops on maybe 1 in 500 windows. It is very rare for them to be removable.

IHI

The only time we install from outside is special circumstances like crazy multi piece interior trim that would risk damage if we tried to pry off, or if there are no inside stops at all but instead have jamb extensions with the casing nailed to them...and other circumstances, but i hate removing outside stops since it adds sooo much more time to the job as well as material, since:
1. you have to chisel the exterior stops off, and depending on existing jambs pray it's self contained and not a part of the jamb itself where you risk pulling out a LARGE section of jamb when it starts cracking and your pulling on the pieces.
2. You now have to rip 1x's to whatever x whatever then go back around and 90% of time use a ladder to put the outside stops back on
3. Depending on what you sell when you chisel outside stops your pretty much forced into capping the opening or painting, both of which suck LOL!!
4. The mess afterwards of cleaning up takes more time and i hate going around with a bucket picking up chips and chunks of wood

you know when you pull the interior stops, it's simply a matter of reinstalling them and your done, time is money, and the longer the job takes, the less money you make; and with the homeowner mentality of we should all be working for free it's even more important than ever to streamline the job.

It's all just a matter of what you actually sell the HO, the existing framework your dealing with, interior trim, etc.......about 15 different things go into figuring the job for simple replacement windows LOL!!

__________________
Hot Rod Work Van
Car video clip
Web
The Photo Gear- Type Josh into Contact name when ordering

QHE

Thank you. I assumed it would take alot longer but alot of contractors around here are doing them this way. One reason is that they feel it's less invasive to the HO. I may try it once or twicw and see how it goes. Thanks again for your very quick response!

Rickle

I've seen it done from the outside and believe me it's not something you would want the home owner to see. Sure it can be covered with aluminum but the mangled mess of literally tearing of the stops off doesn't look very professional.

I feel in most cases it just a way of ripping off the costumer by also selling them on capping the brick mould.

Sloppy.

Tom Struble

i do outside installs also it not that bad
sometimes the stops have a quarter sawn grain
those are best cut with a circular saw

__________________
Tom

Paulie

Done a bunch of replacements from the outside. Lead abatement. got to poly the inside and seal. Then start tearing. I'd much rather do it from the inside but furniture can be a issue. I have written in the contract HO to be responsible for removing furniture but what do you say to a 60 year old lady that can't move anything over 20lbs and 16 windows get delivered when you show up?

Patrick

This must be my competition on craigslist

__________________
Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

Paulie

[quote=AA Handyman;759823]
however inside windows CAN be installed from the outside:


Wha, wha what the f.

www.phbconstruction.com

user38755

We most always install from the inside. Pull sashes and open sides remove weights, stuff with fiberglas using a piece of UT up to roller holes. Caulk around outside stop with color matched OSI(top & sides only). At bottom, bead from outside to inside at sill and arcoss inside of inner sill board. Drop in window, push top out and up and screw top. Pull bottom in and screw. Only caulk and attatch after test fitting window and cutting sill angle extention to fit. We never caulk the bottom exterior unless the window is wrapped.