Broken Wood Screw

cab-guy89

hi guys new here,but hoping i can some help here.i have a broken # 8 2 1/2 screw broken between two adjoining cabinet frames(stiles).i tried drilling it out,no luck.i dont want to damage the stile,and dont want a big hole there either.(extractor)
i been doing this for 5 yrs or so,had some break before out on the outside.these broke inside about 1/2 in inside.
normally i use soap and good screws,but this time i got what was available?(faster)
so im stuck.(bummer)appreciate all feedback.

send_it_all

you might be able to use a fein multi master to get between the frames and cut through the screw with minimal damage. Leave the pieces in the frame and drill a new hole for a new screw right next to the broken one...hopefully, still behind the hinge plate. I have read that candle wax is better than soap for lubricating screws because there is moisture in soap that will rust screws....not sure if its true, just a heads up

neolitic

Like send_it_all said, fill the hole
put another screw next to it.
Maybe take a look at the size
of your pilot bits next time.
Bee's wax is the best lube
I know of, although Rockler
(and probably others) have a
synthetic now.

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Gus Dering

The multi master would work if there was a gap there to stick it in.

Did the screw break off before the parts were drawn together?
If so you have your gap.
If you had the parts clamped prior to screwing them, as you should, then why not just abandon the screw and pop in another?

neolitic

Ooopsie,
I assumed this was the case.

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Gus Dering

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cab-guy89

thats exactly what i did but customer had a change and now it bit in the rear. the customer wants a filler pullout (revashelf) unit installed there.
so im gonna put it in as a favor.
you know i was thinking bout fein multimaster(dont own one). but the gap is very mnimal i say 1/32-1/64 very small.i think the blade is thicker than that.
also i tried prying the two very carefully,between the box closely to the stile.it didnt work either.the screws are id say are embedded 50/50 in there.
i was thinking of drilling a 3/16 hole or so and trying to expose the screw and somehow extract it with a grabbit or some other type.but it seems like a small hole to work with.another is these screws are pretty crappy,dont think theyll rab on to nothing.thanks a lot

cab-guy89

thought bout owning a multimaster someday,now im thinking of acquiring one.
on the candle wax..is the bees wax and candle similar.and where can i buy some.i like to use good fasteners with a tad bit bar soap and they go in like butter.this time i used no soap cheap screws predrilled always and its costing me a headache and a long trip(100 miles 1 way)
i learned from this dont be cheap,spend a few more cents and have no problems.damn economy!lol

Gus Dering

Do the cabinets have a finish on them already?
If not and they are to be painted, I say cut the screw between the styles and bondo the damage.

If a repair is out, then can you remove both cabinets as a single unit and get one box to spin around the other until the screw cabinet is free from the other?

Gus Dering

You don't want to spend your life greasing every screw you drive.
Get your self set up with and install box of good screws and use the appropriate size pilot bit for the screw.
Use the lube when you really need to. Like a really long screw or a lag.

The easy way is hard enough

Tom R

Put a depth gauge on a drill bit and drill right through the screw body (angled) from behind the meeting face-frames.

Five Star

i usually use these clamps for face frames and they have a slot for predrilling, they wont help you now,i would listen to gus and get a few extra hands and take the cabs down as a unit, and try to spin them.

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cabinet runner

I have had this happen a few times . I was able to pry them apart as much as possible and get a bimetal sawzall blade in the gap and go REAL slow . You could also use a hacksaw blade . This situation sucks and I do predrill and countersink but sometimes you hit a hardspot or have a defective screw or are just working a little to fast . Sh*t happens . This situation slows things right on down .
I am mainly dealing with prefinished Merrillat overpriced factory junkers BUT they do come with a decent touch up kit . You didn't mention what finish the cabinets have . good luck

Mike(VA)

Middle, top, or bottom screw? If top or bottom, take the units down and use a sawzall with a long metal cutting blade and cut FROM THE INSIDE. Damage to the stiles won't be seen and you will know when you cut the screw. If it is the middel screw, you should be able to pry the stiles from the top or bottom enough to get the mm in from the front without damaging the face.

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homework

maybe ?

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Tinstaafl

neolitic

Don't be stingy!
Where's the link?

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Railman

Google "hollow screw extractor".
Here ya go:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...fcode=05INFROO

Joe

neolitic

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homework

Sorry about that, kids, running around like crazy earlier
yeah they are from woodcraft

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