Bouncy Floors

 
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Old 02-24-2009, 05:33 PM   #21
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Re: Bouncy Floors


Where exactly do I nail these strong backs? I've heard them being nailed to the webs - what part of the truss does that indicate - I have an idea, but I'd rather be sure of what I'm doing... Again please forgive my ignorance on the subject, the most carpentry work I do is drill holes in the studs for all my wiring.

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Old 02-24-2009, 05:40 PM   #22
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Re: Bouncy Floors


It would be easier to know
what you've got if you can
post pix.
We are really just guessing
what your problem is.
Can you do that?
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Old 02-24-2009, 05:45 PM   #23
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Re: Bouncy Floors


If you have what we refer to as truss joists they are made up of 2x4's and metal gusset plates. If yours are made of osb with a 2x top and bottom we call those TJI's. if u have the truss joists, the stiffbacks are nailed to a vertical 2x4 member perpendicular to the joists. Generally all the joists will be oriented the same way so that these webs line up.
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Old 02-24-2009, 06:02 PM   #24
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Re: Bouncy Floors


If bridging is installed properly, it is essentially the equivelent of building another truss perpendicular to the trusses. The more rows of bridging, the more trusses you are building to distribute load. Think about this, How much weight can you hang from a swingset? If you remove two legs it collapses. Bridging serves the same purpose, distributing load evenly.
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:31 PM   #25
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Re: Bouncy Floors


Greenley,

Was the floor bouncy when the sheetrock was stocked?
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Old 02-25-2009, 05:00 PM   #26
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Re: Bouncy Floors


No pics -sorry - I don't have the tech-skills...
The truss system is made up of of 2x4's with metal gusset plates.
Don't know if the floor was bouncy when the Sheetrock was stocked.
I think I'm back to the bridging idea now - I do have a good number of metal plates that span between each truss - would those be sufficient bridging?
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Old 02-25-2009, 10:16 PM   #27
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Re: Bouncy Floors


Are they maybe more like
metal straps?
Do they make "X's" between
the truss?
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Old 02-25-2009, 10:22 PM   #28
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Re: Bouncy Floors


If you have metal bridging and it doesn't "ring" when you pluck it, you will get bounce in your floor. If you do wood bridging properly with clean cuts and tight installation you will definitely see a vast improvement. That is a promise.
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Old 02-26-2009, 03:27 PM   #29
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Re: Bouncy Floors


The metal plates do not make an "x". They span from truss to truss and have tabs at each end for nailing to the wood.
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:34 PM   #30
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Re: Bouncy Floors


Do you have a friend who can
take pix and e-mail or load them to
your computer?
One pic looking down the joist bay
would save lots of guesses.......
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:44 PM   #31
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Re: Bouncy Floors


Quote:
Originally Posted by greenley View Post
The metal plates do not make an "x". They span from truss to truss and have tabs at each end for nailing to the wood.
That just sounds like strapping to prevent splaying out of joists, they will not distribute load.
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:54 PM   #32
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Re: Bouncy Floors


Does it look like this stuff?
http://www.theracker.com/products.htm
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Old 02-26-2009, 09:22 PM   #33
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Re: Bouncy Floors


Greenley,

Put a piano or a bunch of buckets of water in the center of the span and see if it helps.

I've never seen a bouncy floor on the day when the sheetrock was stocked.
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Old 02-26-2009, 11:24 PM   #34
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Re: Bouncy Floors


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike772 View Post
I build with floor trusses, maybe I can help.

22' should be no problem for floor trusses. I've clear spanned 32' with no problems and zero bounce. Granted I had them at 16"oc, but the original plans had them at 24"oc, my point is they will be engineered for your application to work. By me reducing the spacing, I reduced the bounce.

Floor trusses don't require "x" bridging, atleast in my state. They do require strongbacks. Continuous 2x6's nailed to the vertical member (inside the trusses) of the floor trusses. So from truss to truss and so on, from one end of the house to the other a 2x6 nailed to the vertical member with a minimum of (3) 16d sinkers on each vertical. Check the paperwork that came with the trusses, there is usually an explanation and some graphics of what they want and what is required.

Now, on my larger spans I increase the the strongbacks to every 5', which is every vertical member in the truss. I'm told by engineering that will decrease deflection. And it does. I've noticed that any bounce or deflection to be almost completely gone when I add that many.

The real trick is to not let the other trades notch or cut up those strongbacks. Depending on the height of the trusses, it usually isn't a problem.
I agree with you, Mike, floor trusses aren't even allowed to have bridging, according to some mfg'rs. due to misdirection of loading - and the ones that do usually specify location for bridging. I think that may be why they want the strongbacks - it forces the load-sharing to occur at the proper point in the truss webs. Usually, the truss web pattern means quite a bit more than the distance from span center. I would still be calling the manufacturer for THEIR fix, just to keep warranties good and my a$$ off the liability burner, should it ever come to that - even in my own house.

Last edited by critter; 02-26-2009 at 11:28 PM.
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