Azek Exterior Door Surround On Brick Wall

loneframer

Thanks.
Applying Azek to the brick is relatively simple. I would use an elastomeric caulk sandwiched between the two in order to achieve a good seal, then either Tapcons or even better, stainless deck screws and anchors into the brick. You should be able to conceil these behind any built up moldings or overlays so that you won't have to fill or plug them. I recommend PVC cement to bond any overlays or build ups and Christys Red Hot on butt joints or miters. If you are shaping your own profiles, I highly recommend painting the final product. The "open grain" of the Azek will hold dirt and gives algae a foothold to grow.

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nEighter

and he has arrived!

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CookeCarpentry

Lone, thanks for the reply.

Final product will be painted (because she does not want white).

I was afraid of directly attaching Azek to the brick and experiencing a lot of movement with weather. I can certainly attach it directly to the brick in many ways, and because of the detail (build-up profile) all that type of fastener will be concealed.

CookeCarpentry

My thoughts exactly. I seen him monitoring the thread, and was just about to call him out when he replied.

So the master has spoken.

nEighter

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loneframer

We have done some extremely long runs of fascia with Azek and over an 18' length, I've seen about 3/16" of travel. On a door surround, I don't think you'll experience any substantial movement, although I would be vigilant about gluing the connections.

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loneframer

Now that's funny right there! You know I had to copy and save that one.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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nEighter

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CookeCarpentry

Thanks, lone.

Nice pictures...did you turn that urban setting into a mountain retreat....I severely underestimated your skills!

loneframer

I wish I was that good. Different buildings, same owner. Next month will be 2 years working for the same customer. I keep the weekends open to service other clients so that I don't fade into complete obscurity.

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WarnerConstInc.

If they are going to paint it why use azek?

There are cheaper yet just as good options esp. if it is getting painted anyways. Just saying.

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CookeCarpentry

I'm always open...this was more of a customer driven request than anything.

WarnerConstInc.

I have made some nice things from Miratec, only ones that needed to be a different color than white.

If they want white they get Azek, excell, etc.

It kind of evens out white azek vs. painted miratec.

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nEighter

my two favorite materials to use

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ellisonconst

The best wat that I have found to join Azek at miters on windows and doors, is to use pocket screws. You can use a exterior screw for the pocket. I have worked with Azek for over 7 years. I have done numerous tests on glues for Azek as well and I like the gorilla pvc glue the best. It has a lot longer working time then any other pvc and is alot cheaper than the Azek brand. when I made small corners for tests and put my 200+ pounds and jumped on them. The regular pvc corner broke at the seam and the gorilla glue corner broke but the glu joint did not. I buy my glue at a sprinkler supply house. Well back to the subject. I would go straight to the brick and wet set it with a polyurethane caulk. I have not found a better exterior trim material. I also prefer to use Azek for all of my interiot window trim above showers and tubs. It holds the paint great and will not rot. This is my first post so sorry for the rambling.

ctriverbldr

AZEK Trimboards from my experience can be applied to cement/brick/wood/metal....it is the perfect product for such applications since it will not absorbe moisture from the brick. Use an adhesive that is designed for such applications such as Lexel

Danz

I agree, tapcons are the way to go. predrill and then counter sink w/paddlebit. Make sure the paddle is wide enough to sink your socket and get good bite into the brick. you'll need a good combo hamer drill. And you might need some clamps. Last restoration job I did like that was similar. W.oak to brick. Nail your trim to your wood work and then fasten it up to the brick just to get your lines and joints nice and tight. thencome back w/ some famo putty for your nail and countersink holes, finish with some clear paintable lexel caulk and call it a day! Cheers!