Askin' For Your Ideas??

woodbutchr

I just got me a hot tub, about 6' x 7'. I'm putting it about 4' away & 14" higher than my above ground swimming pool. Kinda stuck as to what kinda design I want to incorporate into the deck surrounding it & as to what kinda roof system I'm gonna use?
I was thinking about an A frame with a ceiling & some black lights. Then have some of them Bamboo roll up shades for the sides & privacy.
Really tho, I want some of your ideas as to how y'all would do it, if y'all don't mind?
Yes, it's treated.

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Griffino

Very nice!

I would definetly keep the decks the same hight so your hot tub is sunken. Looks funny at first but is very functional, especially for those who cannot step over a hot tub side. It is also very nice if you can wrap your deck all the way around; you may not want certain people stepping over you to get in, especially when clothing is optional!

Enjoy!

RobertCDF

I would be more worried about what is holding it up rather than what goes around it.

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DecksEtc

Aside from making sure your structure can support the weight, like Robert suggested here is a photo of a deck I did this spring that has some louvered privacy screens. IMO, they look a lot better than those bamboo things.

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nywoodwizard

A-frame ,ahh go for broke, here's an easy roof and hot tub area with a few buddys it should only take a few hours to construct.

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Bone Saw

I'd put me one of them swedish saunas on that baby too

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woodbutchr

I aint at all worried about the support, it's plenty enough to handle the weight!
Louvered panels, that's a great idea!

woodbutchr

Just a few hours!!

Bone Saw

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Bob Kovacs

He said, as the tub went crashing to the ground..........lol.

Bone Saw

looking at that pic of the tub and the (2) 2' scraps of post in the wheelbarrow, the clamshell, and the (1) 60# bag of quickrete, and the very tidy area around each post, I envision an image of a rickety mortise and tennon bar stool in a large puddle with a very obese man standing on it holding a cable with 240v

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woodbutchr

80# of concrete on each post, post's are notched for bands, 2" x 8" @12" with 2" x 4" @12" across the top. Lags bolts & corner bracing yet to do. It's alot better than where it had been sitting for the past 6 years.

Bone Saw

assuming you "set your post it crete" (btw sakrete is a 3k or 5k# yeild) and your structure holds, I hope your soil bearing capacity is at least 6000psf, you may want to alert your sparky to allow enough slack for a possible and sudden 18-20" drop

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mickeyco

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woodbutchr

Why do you say, "assuming you set your post in crete"? I said that I did, why do you doubt me? The quikrete has a 4000# psi after 28 days of curing, thus 4 posts = 16,000# through distribution of the four corners. Assuming the hot tub holds 500 gal. of water, that's 4,170 lbs. 4 people in it, say 800 lbs.(over estimating here) The hot tub itself, say 700 lbs. That's a total of 5,670 lbs divided by 4 corners =1,417 lbs per post on a 4000 # footing! I think it will work. The soil bearing, I have no idea? It is not fill dirt. It is hard packed so I do not see any cause for concern there.
Oh yeah, yield is spelled "ie" instead of "ei".

RobertCDF

Soil bearing is very important! If I was holding up a hot tub on 4 footings they would be a minimum of 18" DIA all the way past the frost line. Plus the hot tub does not ONLY load to the 4 corners. It distrubutes fairly evenly accross the entire thing.

The deck you have built there is probably not even rated for 60 PSF and you need a lot more than that.

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Bone Saw

I didn't doubt you, in fact I was making sure I was understanding you correctly, but that went way over your head professor. setting post in crete and on footers are are not the same thing, and since you will be supporting 5000+ pounds of tub + a roof structure with blackligkting overhead on less than a square foot of bearing surface, I thought you'd might want to take measures to keep from electrocuting yourself as your tub "settles"

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woodbutchr

The deck around the tub & roof structure will be completely separate from what the tub sits on. That's what I was wanting your ideas on, what kind of roof & wall designs would y'all do if it were yours?
Now just how did you know I was a professor?

Bob Kovacs

Your post is a perfect example of the fact that many contractors have no clue whatsoever when it comes to engineering, yet they talk as though they do. The 4,000 PSI strength of your concrete mix has nothing (as in absolutely nothing) to do with the bearing capacity of the soil, or the ability of those footings to hold up your deck. 4,000 psi is the compressive strength of the concrete, and has to do with how much load needs to be applied to the concrete to fracture a test cylinder, and you'll note that it's rated in pounds per square inch (which you'll never even come close to exceeding), whereas you're talking about pounds of load on each footing- too entirely different things.

Now, that little scolding aside, you've got approximately 6,000# that you're spreading over 4 footings, so each footing is taking +/- 1,500# of load assuming everything is equally distributed. Assuming you've got a 12" diameter footing and that your post has at least 6" or so of concrete below it (rather than the post sitting on the soil and the concrete being poured around it), you're imparting a load of approximately 2,000 #/SF to the soil. Unless you've got poorly compacted soil under the footings, you should be fine- and the footing would never fail- it'd be punched through the soil below far before that would ever happen.

I'd be more concerned about the load transfers from joists to girders or girders to posts, but I'm not about to figure all of that out for you

nywoodwizard

Mr woodbutcher don't make me send the deck police over and give you a sitation for that last step thats about 12" high

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